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Taken out collapsed SIL mountings and have tried to replace with BGM mountings. THe bgm mountings slide in with hand pressure behind them - but not so loose you can waggle them in the hole. I Only have access to a vernier but SIL mountings are clearly bigger than old CAsa / original etc by 0.1 mm and have enlarged the hole. Could anyone please advise me on any bearing retaining product they have successfully used to stop loose engine mountings rotating or if this sounds like a bad plan.

I've used SAS 638 High Strength Retainer to do the same job.

I think I would go for one of the less strong retainers, perhaps Loctite studlock because you need to consider changing the blocks in years to come and with an high strength retainer you are going to need some heat to break the joint.

Hi
I don't think it would cause you any problems if you used any sort of high strength retainer as most people would be using a bit of heat anyway to help get engine mounts in & out, though my personal choice would be stud lock. To also help get a little extra grip you could dot punch the case on the inside where the mountings fit

Cheers Mark.

Avoiding any contradiction or elaboration, the mounts, once fitted, are ‘fail safe’ in as much as they cannot come out without release of the bar & nuts.

For that reason, much as I like Loctite type products, I would personally avoid a retaining compound unless it is extremely low strength as you may need to remove them, & I have done the job dozens of times always with Copaslip to discourage seizing in. I should add that I've never encountered loose mounts as you have, though.

All that is required is for some slight resistance to turning which (IMHO) could be achieved by squashing (the spigot that fits) slightly in a vice making it out-of-round, thus achieving a slight interference fit once pulled into place. In fact, some of the mounts I have had are often out-of-round, which is why I suggest it, as they still pull in alright...

Agree with the coppergrease when fitting mounts but I always heat the casing enough to remove and fit without the extractor unless it's an old casing and the mounts are corroded in.I've a mate who's casing has to use retainer as any mounts just drop in cold but never had any bother removing them with heat when renewing.

Wack wrote:Agree with the coppergrease when fitting mounts but I always heat the casing enough to remove and fit without the extractor unless it's an old casing and the mounts are corroded in.I've a mate who's casing has to use retainer as any mounts just drop in cold but never had any bother removing them with heat when renewing.

It helps to share information & what you say sounds better advice than my cautious approach.

Although I’ve changed quite a few engine mounts in my time, much of it has been transferring the prized Indian ‘solid’ type from one block to another.

Bizarrely, I’ve never encountered any that are so tight that I’ve needed heat! However, I'm always prepared to use copious amounts of penetrating oil & my homemade tool incorporates bearings which make a huge difference to the force required.