LCGB Forums

After trying to adjust my gear cables, I've come to the conclusion something isn't right some where.
Problem:
Goes into 1st and nuteral fine when engine is off. But if I come to a junction or lights and I haven't gone down the gears to 1st while the Motor is decelerating, I won't be able to find 1st or nuteral. Only solution is to stall/ turn off scoot or rev it's balls off in second.Neither is ideal as you'll all agree.
Solutions tried:
1. New gear selector arm
2. New tie bar
3. Adjusted cables from scratch, taking all slack up and screwing adjusters in for fine adjustment.
Clutch seems fine and adjusts well with cable.

Any ideas lads?

Cheers

Gearbox shim set correctly?

The clutch seems to be dragging,especially when the motor gets hot.

I'd suspect the clutch.

What is in it?

Thanks for the replies.

Firstly it makes no difference if it's hot or cold.
The clutch is a standard and recently furnished with new plates.

It does feel it's something that stops working once the engine idles. But is fine any other time.

P D: SC Chester wrote:Thanks for the replies.

Firstly it makes no difference if it's hot or cold.
The clutch is a standard and recently furnished with new plates.

It does feel it's something that stops working once the engine idles. But is fine any other time.

So, it can't be the 'new' clutch plates swelling when hot & causing drag?

i would suspect clutch drag as well, if you have fitted new plates that should rule them out, your springs could be the problem, maybe coilbound before the plates are separated enough, or clutch arm in wrong position maybe ?

holty wrote:i would suspect clutch drag as well, if you have fitted new plates that should rule them out, your springs could be the problem, maybe coilbound before the plates are separated enough, or clutch arm in wrong position maybe ?

I think we more or less agree except the part about them being 'new'

I should have explained!

If anything, newer clutch plates can be more prone to drag simply because they are thicker & especially if they have any tendency to swell, reducing the running clearance.

I had a similar issue with a couple of my bikes.
A thinner top plate sorted it.

If it is new plates swelling, will the problem ease with normal wear?

Thanks All.

With the clutch built up,compress the clutch with the clutch compressor and you should be able to move the plates in and out 1mm.If you cant do this the plates should be taken out and measured.The clutch corks should be no thicker than 3.5mm (4 corks should fit between the jaws of an open ended 14mm spanner)Top plates are 2.5mm and 3.00mm thick.Normal steel plates are 1.50mm but you can also buy them at 1.20mm thick.

good point about the plates swelling more, a set of thinner steels may help to reduce the drag, as will a thinner top plate, just check the top friction plate stays within the basket, somtimes they can spin without touching the crownwheel.

Cheers lads. Will investigate with case open.

If your layshaft endplate bearing arrangement isn't up to par then you will have difficulty selecting neutral and first.
Give the rear wheel a shake. If there is a definite knock then suspect as above.
The needle roller bearing and the outer track are real weak points especially if they are of indian origin. Tolerances on these components is a bit of a lucky dip.

Thanks FnF