LCGB Forums

hmm...bit of a weird one, took the scoot for MOT the other day, passed fine, however went to use it the other day and noticed my lights were dim as hell, pulled the scoot in, checked all the earths, cleaned contacts etc and still the same now its runs on old school points (ducati 6V DC) and pretty much original in spec and age so could a flywheel sudden loose it magnetic power all of a sudden or is such a thing a gradual process? going to pull the bike in again in a mo to see if I've missed anything else. Oh it starts fine and runs sweet as. Cheers Paul

Personally, I've only known it as a slow degradation that makes itself known through difficulty in starting & even causing the engine to die when the lights are turned on.

You might need to look elsewhere as the problem with 6 volt lighting is that any wiring & connections really need to be in first class condition.

As a matter of interest, although I wouldn't suggest you get rid of your points, but are you persevering with 6 volts as a 'purist?' I only ask because conversion to 12 volt is a good thing to consider.

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:Personally, I've only known it as a slow degradation that makes itself known through difficulty in starting & even causing the engine to die when the lights are turned on.

You might need to look elsewhere as the problem with 6 volt lighting is that any wiring & connections really need to be in first class condition.

As a matter of interest, although I wouldn't suggest you get rid of your points, but are you persevering with 6 volts as a 'purist?' I only ask because conversion to 12 volt is a good thing to consider.

Cheers for the reply, I retain using the points set up as in the last 20 years of ownership of the scoot, they've been reliable, I rebuilt the bike ten years ago using new loom, rectifier etc etc and always kept on top of maintenance with the system. Gone are the days of the late 80's/early 90's 'fit and forget' AF electronic kits, now it seems no one (including the more expensive makers) can make a stator and flywheel to last . Read a rally write up recently where a bloke used two variatronic stators getting to a rally -sod that the bikes only a local run about and standard so points are fine. I was thinking , would a dodgy bulb holder cause dimming in the lights? cheers Paul

Scooterslag wrote:

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:Personally, I've only known it as a slow degradation that makes itself known through difficulty in starting & even causing the engine to die when the lights are turned on.

You might need to look elsewhere as the problem with 6 volt lighting is that any wiring & connections really need to be in first class condition.

As a matter of interest, although I wouldn't suggest you get rid of your points, but are you persevering with 6 volts as a 'purist?' I only ask because conversion to 12 volt is a good thing to consider.

Cheers for the reply, I retain using the points set up as in the last 20 years of ownership of the scoot, they've been reliable, I rebuilt the bike ten years ago using new loom, rectifier etc etc and always kept on top of maintenance with the system. Gone are the days of the late 80's/early 90's 'fit and forget' AF electronic kits, now it seems no one (including the more expensive makers) can make a stator and flywheel to last . Read a rally write up recently where a bloke used two variatronic stators getting to a rally -sod that the bikes only a local run about and standard so points are fine. I was thinking , would a dodgy bulb holder cause dimming in the lights? cheers Paul

I'm by no means an expert, but anything of high resistance will sap power. So a dodgy connection, fitting, 'less than perfect wiring' will all take their toll.

Toolstation (& the like) sell contact cleaner & It's worth having around. Their other products include penetrating oil which I know from comments on this Forum that a lot of people seem to continue thinking is WD40....

A short circuit in the lighting circuit will also cause dim lights and is more likely than a high resistance niggle.
I suggest that you make up a tester using a car headlight bulb (An H4 or H7). Connect it directly to the stator output with nothing else connected to the circuit (Rectifier/Regulator/ loom wiring and other bulbs).
If the lamp burns brightly then you know its not the stator and you can then move forward connecting back each piece of kit until the fault returns.
Voila.

may be the nice mot man put you a 12v bulb in , check them

a-teamlambretta wrote:may be the nice mot man put you a 12v bulb in , check them

hmmm...no

Fast n Furious wrote:A short circuit in the lighting circuit will also cause dim lights and is more likely than a high resistance niggle.
I suggest that you make up a tester using a car headlight bulb (An H4 or H7). Connect it directly to the stator output with nothing else connected to the circuit (Rectifier/Regulator/ loom wiring and other bulbs).
If the lamp burns brightly then you know its not the stator and you can then move forward connecting back each piece of kit until the fault returns.
Voila.

Good advice and tips, cheers fella