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Just about finished running in my TS1 when I stopped to ring the missus on my home from Heacham yesterday.
Set off again and after a mile or so scoot was not running right I pulled up and the engine cut out straight away and was well hot, I then noticed my fast flow fuel tap was turned off,plug was white and no way was it going to start, guess I must have Turned it off when I rang the missus.
My question is, is this why the engine over heated ?
Other question is I set up stripping the Scott down this morning,rings have nipped and top of piston is hollowed out opposite spark plug,whilst the barrel is a grade B the Asso piston has 4L etched on the top,what piston do I need ?
Cheers

If it's a new cylinder then go for a B piston.

I reckon it was turned partially off not fully off and was running very lean.

Anyone with a EGT will have notice the temp sky rocket when its in the process of running onto run onto reserve.

Wack wrote:If it's a new cylinder then go for a B piston.

The cylinder was not new and I have just had it re-plated due to a previous seize.

coaster wrote:I reckon it was turned partially off not fully off and was running very lean.

Anyone with a EGT will have notice the temp sky rocket when its in the process of running onto run onto reserve.

Yes, I know and I am looking into getting one, although not running a battery my choices are limited, can you recommend one ?

ROClarke wrote:

coaster wrote:I reckon it was turned partially off not fully off and was running very lean.

Anyone with a EGT will have notice the temp sky rocket when its in the process of running onto run onto reserve.

Yes, I know and I am looking into getting one, although not running a battery my choices are limited, can you recommend one ?

I've only used the cheap ebay ones, they do need DC but you can rig that by using the MB Mod Charger or better still, an Anthony Tambs Scootronics Intelyconverter (He's on Face Book). That said, they aren't very reliable to be honest, my first one had a proper needle but it started to go haywire after a year or so with the needle flicking round to full scale and then it died. Replaced that with one with an electronic analogue scale but that started reading high on the Derby 150 this weekend and actually told me my egt was 1200 degrees I expected my piston to just be a puddle of ally. That too is now dead as a door nail. Therefore, I would also be interested in a reliable replacement

coaster wrote:

ROClarke wrote:

coaster wrote:I reckon it was turned partially off not fully off and was running very lean.

Anyone with a EGT will have notice the temp sky rocket when its in the process of running onto run onto reserve.

Yes, I know and I am looking into getting one, although not running a battery my choices are limited, can you recommend one ?

I've only used the cheap ebay ones, they do need DC but you can rig that by using the MB Mod Charger or better still, an Anthony Tambs Scootronics Intelyconverter (He's on Face Book). That said, they aren't very reliable to be honest, my first one had a proper needle but it started to go haywire after a year or so with the needle flicking round to full scale and then it died. Replaced that with one with an electronic analogue scale but that started reading high on the Derby 150 this weekend and actually told me my egt was 1200 degrees I expected my piston to just be a puddle of ally. That too is now dead as a door nail. Therefore, I would also be interested in a reliable replacement

I have just purchased a KOSO mini 2 thermometer off that well known auction site,its coming from the US,its powered by its own battery outside battery is for the backlight only.

Reliable repeatable output from RTD sensors are notoriously crap. It's inherent in their design. The Koso/ Sip temp sensors drift wildly over a years use. Mine is now showing about 25F higher than true at room temp. Finding a good source of quality 4.5mm sensors is proving difficult seeing as they are all made in the same part of the world these days. To measure EGT, the sensor needs to be a platinum type for that heat range and they have negligible drift error.

I nipped up my rb a few years back, and that was down to the fuel tap, when I turned it on the little rubber washer broke up inside the tap a a piece blocked the hole and it ran weak, I found the problem when trying a flow test, I now just leave it turned on all the time, I did install a new rubber washer

holty wrote:I nipped up my rb a few years back, and that was down to the fuel tap, when I turned it on the little rubber washer broke up inside the tap a a piece blocked the hole and it ran weak, I found the problem when trying a flow test, I now just leave it turned on all the time, I did install a new rubber washer

I am going to leave mine on all the time in future,a flooded engine is better than a siezed one lol !

As long as your float valve is the red type and doesn't leak you should be ok.