LCGB Forums

Trying to remove the rear hub of an Indian GP150 which has developed a wobble and it's not obliging. I'm using a rear hub puller, but two of the three 7mm holes have stripped.
I've had the hub off within the last year or two, but it's not budging now. It's not like it's been on there decades!

Can I drill the M7 holes deeper, tap them and use longer bolts in the puller? Is there any reason the 7mm holes can't be deeper?

If I'm not going to use the hub again I usually use a block of wood and a hammer and hit the hub from behind,rotating it after every hit until it comes free.

Have you wound the brake off?

Yeah, brake is wound off. It's just not budging at all. If I can get a puller on it, I can give it a whack as well, but only one bolt is holding.

Has anyone one tried tapping the holes deeper? I can't think what's in there would cause a problem - in theory these holes can go all the way into the hub, can't they?

3 legged puller might do it, wind on some decent pressure and then whack the end of the layshaft (wind an old old nut on it to protect it)

If you intend to salvage the hub, beware of drilling deeper, but you could repair the holes.

As M7 is just a slightly bigger version of common M6 x 1.0, you can usually Helicoil a stripped M7 'down' to M6 with a kit.

It might sound a bit crazy but was something I've done in the past when I couldn't acquire any quality high tensile fasteners elsewhere on a Lambretta.

With any rear hub extraction, though, you should fit the longest, good quality fasteners that will fit almost the full depth of the hole without bottoming out that ensure the extractor tool is clamped into place, tighten the centre bolt & give it a knock with a hammer.

I hope that helps.

Like the other fella said...
Support the bike, rotate the hub & hit it on the edge with either a mallet or a hammer & a bit of wood for a drift.. it'll come off.
Maybe, if you've a blow torch to hand, warm around the hub splines as well..

Cheers Mark.

I agree, heat will do it and a bash from behind, get a mate to bash it and you hold the lamp. Fire extinguisher to hand please.

I've had to do this as an emergency, when no extractor was available, by putting a decent bit of timber against a larger area of the rim/tyre and then whacking it with a decent mallet. The timber spreads the load and reduces the chance of damaging anything. You do need to knock, rotate, knock, rotate, etc., rather than just beat the hell out of it.

If you live anywhere near someone with the original workshop tool then see if you can visit them or borrow it. There are 2 types; one that goes behind the hub and pulls against it (not too keen on this type) and, one that bolts onto the 4 studs and pulls against these. Neither of these pull against the weaker M6 (Indian) or M7 (other) locking ring threads.

Best of luck.

Adam

ive got a home made rear puller, it uses an old wheel rim, so its pulling on the 4 wheel studs, i welded 2 legs sticking out and a piece of angle across with a bolt in the center to push the layshaft, its longer on one side so acts as a rear hub holding tool, its a bit agricultural but works well even with no threads in the rear hub

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:If you intend to salvage the hub, beware of drilling deeper, but you could repair the holes.

As M7 is just a slightly bigger version of common M6 x 1.0, you can usually Helicoil a stripped M7 'down' to M6 with a kit.

It might sound a bit crazy but was something I've done in the past when I couldn't acquire any quality high tensile fasteners elsewhere on a Lambretta.

With any rear hub extraction, though, you should fit the longest, good quality fasteners that will fit almost the full depth of the hole without bottoming out that ensure the extractor tool is clamped into place, tighten the centre bolt & give it a knock with a hammer.

I hope that helps.

Did this and it worked a treat.
Thanks!

Turns out the endplate was loose. Didn't have to take the hub off after all.

I've never had this ever before. Any idea what causes it and how to prevent it? Apart from doing the nuts up tight, of course

EddieStone wrote:

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:If you intend to salvage the hub, beware of drilling deeper, but you could repair the holes.

As M7 is just a slightly bigger version of common M6 x 1.0, you can usually Helicoil a stripped M7 'down' to M6 with a kit.

It might sound a bit crazy but was something I've done in the past when I couldn't acquire any quality high tensile fasteners elsewhere on a Lambretta.

With any rear hub extraction, though, you should fit the longest, good quality fasteners that will fit almost the full depth of the hole without bottoming out that ensure the extractor tool is clamped into place, tighten the centre bolt & give it a knock with a hammer.

I hope that helps.

Did this and it worked a treat.
Thanks!

Thank you for the positive feedback! I've been bedridden since Sunday, missing Wickstead's & other important events (sorry Martin!) but you've cheered me up!

EddieStone wrote:Turns out the endplate was loose. Didn't have to take the hub off after all.

I've never had this ever before. Any idea what causes it and how to prevent it? Apart from doing the nuts up tight, of course

Any time I have a block to rebuild, I always remove the existing M7 x 1.0 studs & run a tap down the holes to clean out the threads. Next, a cotton bud with Meths (Hic!) or thinners down the holes. Then, I select the longest, scrupulously clean ENGINEERS studs (strong, ‘rolled threads’ type) that will fit & Loctite them in place VERY CAREFULLY with just a nat’s of Studlok so that I don’t ‘hydraulic’ the studs causing breakage of the casing. If I have any doubts, I Helicoil the holes back to M7 (now that I have the kit!)

I use fresh, ‘proper‘ stout, black hardened M7 spring washers & hardened, high tensile M7 nuts & torque up sequentially to about 12.5 lb/ft*. No Loctite on the nuts, just squeaky clean.

If you are prepared to Helicoil all six holes, M7 SHCS’s (Socket Head Cap Screws) can be utilised. Again, select the longest that will fit/be prepared to cut down screws that are too long. Use only a low strength Loctite in such instances if compelled to do so

Incidentally, when checking the endplate float (with the layshaft fully tensioned via the hub nut) it can be made less tedious by leaving the gear cluster out until the desired clearance (0.003” – 0.011”) has been achieved, not forgetting to finally fit the cluster @ the end....

I hope this helps as it is an area where you cannot compromise.

* That torque figure is for threads in perfect condition & if there is any doubt, use less force.