LCGB Forums

I have a '62 S3 Li, Noticed the wheel turns too far to the left, turning right you feel it hit the steering lock so the wheel don't turn too far
but turn the wheel left and nothing, tyre almost touches front mud guard> so, how best can i find out where the issue is,
i presume i got to drop the forks out, and check them for steering lock welds worn or snapped off, or would it be on the main frame tube ?

Any advice tips to find where the issue is would be great, i don't think its an MOT failure, just an advisory just got to remember not to turn too sharp doing a left lol.

Forks out Defo.
Strange that it stops one way and not T'other.
Once you drop the forks out you should be able to see what's gone wrong.
Simple enough to reweld stop back onto fork .
I would be interested to hear how you go about welding the stop back on the frame tube if that's dropped off???

I’d suggest that the steering stock lug located within the headstock tube has been damaged at some point

Thanks lads...

UCL soulagent..if you mean the steering lock, that locks fine with the key both ways, left or right, unlocked, turn wheel right you feel it clunk on
weld i presume, turn left nothing, full lock + some.

Not 100% sure what the steering stock lug is will try n google an image.

I will let you know how i get on..

I think you and ULC Soulagent have got your wires crossed.If I read this right,your having trouble with your forks from lock to lock,not having trouble with your steering lock,which locks your steering in one position when you use the key.

No I think ULC is correct .
There's two half moon shaped collets for want of a better word one on the fork tube one on the headstock tube at some point one or both have probably been damaged.
Logically because the steering still stops one way they must still be attached.
I seem to remember one way of making good the headstock stops was drilling and tapping two high tensile screws to act as stops???
It would be good to hear from anyone who's done this repair.

@Hxpaul

Yes maybe i worded it wrong, steering lock is fine and locks via key both ways left & right, but the forks /wheel turn too much to the left, making me think the weld on the forks is either worn or broken etc.

Phil D wrote:No I think ULC is correct .
There's two half moon shaped collets for want of a better word one on the fork tube one on the headstock tube at some point one or both have probably been damaged.
Logically because the steering still stops one way they must still be attached.
I seem to remember one way of making good the headstock stops was drilling and tapping two high tensile screws to act as stops???
It would be good to hear from anyone who's done this repair.

If you make a taper roller lower steering bearing conversion, then the metal stop tag that is welded to the fork shaft has to be removable so as to fit and replace the bearing. Best way to do this is to drill, tap and countersink 2 holes through the tab before carefully removing the tab with an angle grinder. Redrill the 2 holes in the tab for clearance. There's not a whole lot of metal to tap into on these fork shafts and the countersunk screws need to be just the right length so as not to foul the speedo cable. Mine works fine and if i was ever to see the day when that tab got ripped off......... I dread to think what state I'm likely to be in.

I think I'm goosed then F&F for doing the taper bearing conversion
I got a bit carried away when I re-welded the rogue stop back on my forks you could hang a Lambretta owners wallet from that weld and it wouldn't break.

Phil D wrote:No I think ULC is correct .
There's two half moon shaped collets for want of a better word one on the fork tube one on the headstock tube at some point one or both have probably been damaged.
Logically because the steering still stops one way they must still be attached.
I seem to remember one way of making good the headstock stops was drilling and tapping two high tensile screws to act as stops???
It would be good to hear from anyone who's done this repair.

i purchased a frame a few years ago that had the part in the frame tube missing, i added 2 stops by drilling and tapping 2 m6 holes, i then screwed a bolt in with a nut on it, when it hit the fork tube i unwound it about half a turn and tightened up the nut to secure it, then welded it in place, repeated on both sides, and worked fine.