LCGB Forums

I got an MOT fail today because it appears that the steering stops on the nearside is gone. So the handlebars flop further round anti-clockwise than clockwise.

Anyone seen this before?

Is it likely to be the bit on the forks or the bit in the frame that's the problem?

On my series 2 the forks flop to the right further than the left,however which ever direction they stop before the headlight touches the legshields.

Yes, this stops before hits the leg shield but the handlebar end is very close to the seat.

Probably doesn't help that it's Spanish and has one of them handlebar loops and great big loaf seat.

Guess I'll have to get the forks out and have a look.

you could always SORN it for the next month until May 20th then it wont need an MOT.
Assuming you scoot is 40 + years old.

If it stops before hitting anything,the only thing that can be stopping it is the fork stops

It's a very late 84 Lince so no get out of jail and I need the MOT to get it registered...

I'd almost be prepared to bet the stop on the forks isn't welded on central. Got most of the headset stripped before the light went will get the forks out tomorrow and see what's what.

Gives me an excuse to fix a couple of other minor things that were bugging me at the front end anyway.

the fork stem has a piece of metal welded onto it, it will need a bit of weld to build it up on the side it swings too far, and a bit of grinding to dress it up afterwards, does mean forks out though, easy enough job if you have a mig or stick welder.

Welding is not a skill I've added - yet

I'm sure I can find someone local to do it though.

Thanks for the feedback everyone.

I'll let you know what I find when I get it out.

Just been into the garage, my 1988 Spanish SX has equal stops; hope this helps.

Forks are out and it looks like the stop on the forks has been welded before. As suspected it's not even.

From the centre line of the forks it's 22mm on one side and 19mm on the other (the side that goes over too far). Taking it over to a mate who can weld to get a couple mm added to even it up.

You could use the old trick us racers use. An exhaust clamp around the frame. With 2 long nuts like what’s holding your head cowl to the barrel stud. Place this at the shoulders of your forks and cut to the required length to allow your steering to turn the amount you want. Easy fix no welding.
We don’t cut down as you don’t need much steering on track.

Thanks, yes a couple of mates suggested that too.

I've found a mate with a MIG kit and he's welded a bit onto the stop at the short side. Just waiting for the rain to stop then I can get them back in and dressed up to even it out.

Forks welded and back in now and problem solved.

Cheers all.

MOT is required if you ride it on the road, Zero road tax applies to old classics built before 1st January 1978 but you still have to "tax" (on the DVLA website) the bike if you ride it on the road.

Normski wrote:MOT is required if you ride it on the road, Zero road tax applies to old classics built before 1st January 1978 but you still have to "tax" (on the DVLA website) the bike if you ride it on the road.

As of now your statement about the MOT is absolutely correct, but come the end of May vehicles in historic class (which have not been substantially modified) will also be exempt from MOT.

Anyway MOT passed now - on to registration...