LCGB Forums

Help needed!
I have just removed the rear hub from my 1952 d 125 (Mk 1 I think). After purchasing the tool for the hub nut, the nut came off remarkably easily. I barely had to hold the rear wheel to turn the nut. The wheel and hub then came off easily with a light tug.
My question is should the hub be that easy to remove? It seems a bit loose to me. Also when refitting it how does the nut lock? There is no locking arrangement as on later models? Is the spring washer enough to keep the wheel from coming loose. Also what is the torque setting for the rear hub nut and is it possible to determine a torque setting given the special tool required?
Any other advice and information on the mysteries of the rear hub would be welcomed.
For information I bought the scooter last year and only managed to ride it around the block a few times once it was registered before the onset of winter. Given the state of the rear hub nut I'm glad I did not get a chance to ride it further!
I removed the rear hub because I had what felt like oil/grease contamination on the tear brake shoes. I have picked up how to replace the stub axle oil seal in another post so will try that.
Thanks in advance.

It's a nearly 70 year old scooter, who knows why it was loose. The important thing is to make sure it's right from here on in.

By all means change the seal but early Ds do not have a breather for the rear axle. It would be well worth fitting one.

No, there isn't a torque spec. Check the tapers carefully for damage. If everything is ok, clean the tapers thoroughly first. Make sure the lock washer still has some "spring" to it. Replace it if it is mostly flat. Assemble clean and dry and tighten the nut as much as you can by hand and that's it. Check the nut's tightness at regular intervals -- given the low mileage it will see, once a year would do. I did mine 7 or so years ago with no issues since. I check the nut every spring prior to the first ride of the year.

That’s great advice although I’m not sure how to fit a breather for the rear axle. Any advice or the source of information on that issue would be welcome.
Cheers. W

Pretty easy. Buy a breather from a later model, drill and thread a hole in the top. Should look like this:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=arkWQfUZ45A

The transmission casing on the later models had a boss cast into the top surface where the vent plug is located, to give a flat mounting surface for the vent plug. As the vent hole is only to prevent oil being forced into the hub when the air in the final drive area heats up, a hole of about 1mm diameter would be enough to let the air out - as is done on the clutch cover on later models. To prevent dirt/grit getting into the final drive, an alternative might be to fit a small adaptor instead, and run a flexible vent tube to a higher position on the frame - a bit like a vent tube on a battery.

I liked the video - not too sure that kick starting an engine from a set of stepladders is the safest method..... Here's another at ground level :- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FHxk1Q2MbnA

Yup, no flat spot for the breather but it is still easy to fit. I did it to my '55 D150, no problem.

Agreed, using a step ladder is not best practice!