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jbcollier wrote:Ok, a few issues.
First, the kickstart slip: is "grindy" or "notchy" like mis-meshed gears? Or, literally "slipping" like something sliding free? If slipping, check your clutch adjustments first.
Second, flywheel play: is the side to side play literally the crank/flywheel assembly moving towards the front and the back of the scoot? Or, you can turn the flywheel slightly while the crank stays put?
jbcollier wrote:So, flywheel on, nut tightened, and you can move the flywheel without moving the crank until it hits the woodruff key?
jbcollier wrote:Sorry for the repetition, flywheel nut is TIGHT? And, the flywheel is still LOOSE?
If so, take off the flywheel and send me pictures of the crank taper and the flywheel taper.
jbcollier wrote:You can move it only BEFORE tightening the nut? Or, after as well?
jbcollier wrote:You can move it only BEFORE tightening the nut? Or, after as well?
jbcollier wrote:And, that is the flywheel turning on the crank? The crank stays still?
jbcollier wrote:The woodruff key provides a repeatable index point for the flywheel so you don't have to reset the timing every time you remove the flywheel. The woodruff key does not hold the flywheel in position, the tapers do that. A bit of woodruff key play can be dealt with by pushing the flywheel to one side or the other before tightening the nut. Reset the timing once, and you have a repeatable procedure. So, a slight ly loose woodruff key is not a deal breaker.
However, your video shows Noise? Movement? After the nut is tight Hard to tell what's up.
jbcollier wrote:Forget the woodruff key. Does the flywheel MOVE on the crank after the flywheel nut is tightened? If yes, you have a serious problem.
Kickstart. If the kickstart is not disengaging, you need to take it apart and fix the problem. Don't run it until it's fixed. Remember that, as answered in another thread, you sometimes need to shim the kickstart mech with multiple gaskets.
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