SX Refresh

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Regarding the cursor control, if anything is likely to loosen IMO, it is the cursor arm bolt internally.

From memory, it is a unique M6 bolt with 9 mm A/F hexagon that can be replaced with a low profile, high tensile SHCS (Socket Head Cap Screw) or BHCS (Button etc) which will take significant torque to enable it to resist loosening. Furthermore, if a longer screw with some shank (unthreaded portion) is utilised in any position of the cursor securing fasteners (or virtually anywhere, for that matter) the result will be a stronger 'joint'

I bet I have mentioned this too late I'll get me coat......

[nsaints]

I think this is the internal pinch bolt on the wishbone you're referring to, to prevent fouling on the casing in either 1st or 4th
at least I hope so, as I've not touched this end of the selector shaft

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

I think this is the internal pinch bolt on the wishbone you're referring to, to prevent fouling on the casing in either 1st or 4th
at least I hope so, as I've not touched this end of the selector shaft

That's the one.

You would have automatically felt for any play, I'm sure

[nsaints]

At long last the 'waiting for a welder' blockage is removed and the floor strut crack is fixed
I can now crack on and finish the rebuild. See what I did there.

Question for those in the know - grey speedo cables seem to be supplied too short, so a nice loop at the wheel end seems impossible. The cable is perhaps an inch too short
1st I tried a scootopia speedo cable, then I read Mec-Eur are a better length. So I bought a mec-eur cable, nope just the same.

I read a theory that grey speedo cables have mistakenly, started to be made to the same length as a GP speedo cables. seems a good explanation
I don't have a genuine innocenti grey cable to confirm this by measuring

anyone else know a solution to this... I'm not sure it's possible to make your own speedo cables..?

Here's a couple of pictures to illustrate my point

Too tight a a speedo cable loop at the wheel?


Cable run down the fork

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

"Speedo cable" written on the back of my hand to prompt me to measure a few.

If no grey available, a donor from another vehicle can be made to suit & may be a better bet than remade cr@p. The outer could be greyed by heat shrinking grey on & the inners are modifiable (shortening & squaring) by loading the cable (actually, more like a spring) with solder & forming the desired square end. I've had to do so for a flexible drive on porting tools, so it does work. Bit of a faff, but Lambrettas, eh?

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Although I have several. I just grabbed the one I found first. Total outer length including the alloy flanged part crimped on the top end is about 44-1/4"

[nsaints]

Thanks for checking.

I've just measured the mec-eur outer and that's 44 inches exactly, which is the same as the Scootopia. a tad shorter than the cable you measured

It's not the end of the world with the outer being slightly too short. With a liberal amount of grease on the inner, it should be fine-ish
However the too tight a radius then ideal at the wheel, must be putting additional strain on the speedo drive gear, and contribute to premature failure

[nsaints]

Cables and new wiring loom are fitted now

I've used a Scootopia cable set with dummy oilers, for no other reason than I like the look
It doesn't make a lot of sense as I'm running a a 25mm PHBL on a GT186, so hardly a standard machine where I need the look of oilers to maintain the standard look.
any how I like it, so that's all that matters





To maintain the standard carb outer cable (for the dummy oiler) I've used a 160 degree dellorto angle to give me a few inches extra cable length for the uprated carb.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Thanks for checking.

I've just measured the mec-eur outer and that's 44 inches exactly, which is the same as the Scootopia. a tad shorter than the cable you measured

It's not the end of the world with the outer being slightly too short. With a liberal amount of grease on the inner, it should be fine-ish
However the too tight a radius then ideal at the wheel, must be putting additional strain on the speedo drive gear, and contribute to premature failure

You are welcome to any help I can offer

I just revisited your images & reckon that you should tweak the fork link centre mounted (Gasp! Take a breath) cable clip by making the two bends within it a little greater, effectively moving the clipping component closer to the pivot centre. Also rotate it clockwise as you look @ the offside.

If you do so with the intention of giving the speedo cable clipped in it, you should be able to create a better radius to it making it's entrance to the speedo drive less sharp.

Let the speedo cable's most comfortable geometry dictate the positioning of the clip, not the brake cable.TBH, the standard front brake cable routing loses so much efficiency it's little wonder that reverse pull is a preferred choice for many of us. Today's traffic, worse driving standards, better tyres etc all seem to contribute to the necessity to gain what you can in the braking area whilst utilising OEM components. Not that I am opinionated.......

[nsaints]

Makes sense

Just tried bending the guide without any heat and it snapped like a dry twig

Just ordered a new guide...

Edit..
Without the cable guide fitted the speedo cable follows a nice loop close to the fork boot
With a fork with a welded wire guide the speedo cable length would be near as darn it perfect

So perhaps the grey speedo cable length ‘issue’ has always existed since the introduction of the bolt on cable guide?
Anyhow as stated earlier not the end of the world.

[nsaints]

Just finished..

In the end the speedo cable was OK, I just bent/eased the plastic shroud into the same curve as the cable, and everything was well

I also picked up a nice inner legshield spare wheel holder.
pleased with with the overall result, and roll on warmer days/evenings

[Storkfoot]

Classic SX 150 with, in my opinion, a worthy upgrade in the GT186. I do like the Vigano spare wheel holder too.

I have just put a Scootopia speedo cable into the forks of my GP150 build. As yet, the forks aren’t fitted in the frame but I sense that I am going to have the same issue as you. The cable is too short.

[nsaints]

I have just put a Scootopia speedo cable into the forks of my GP150 build. As yet, the forks aren’t fitted in the frame but I sense that I am going to have the same issue as you. The cable is too short.

My Scootopia speedo cable was just about long enough for a single curve once I’d bent the plastic shroud at the wheel end. It is just about long enough though. I’d recommend getting some heat from a hair drier on the plastic shroud though, else a bowl of boiling water to soften it up 1st

[pat12966]

Just finished..

In the end the speedo cable was OK, I just bent/eased the plastic shroud into the same curve as the cable, and everything was well

I also picked up a nice inner legshield spare wheel holder.
pleased with with the overall result, and roll on warmer days/evenings

Was that on eBay the carrier

[nsaints]

No not eBay, it came from Rimini Lambretta and was bought as new old stock

[nsaints]

She’ll be back on the ramp next week.
Seems by fitting a BGM V4 exhaust with a larger header I’ve lost some low down power versus the scootopia clubman.
This means having to give it a bit more in 3rd to hit the power in 4th than I like. And dropping to 3rd up hills, again more than I’m after
Also the MB clutch springs require more effort than I’d like

To solve this I’m going after the gearing and having spoken to fellow GT186 owners I’m changing the gearing to 5:1 from 4:9 using the fitted LI 150 gearbox, 17t front but changing to a 48 crown wheel. I already had a IWIS chain the correct size in the spares (dreams) box

Hoping to kill two birds with one stone with the larger crown wheel I’m going for mild tune clutch springs, replacing the MB ones, the thinking being a larger crown wheel gives the clutch an easier time (ala GP)

I’ve a dyno setup with Al at Diablo early May, I’ll list the jetting details incase this of any use to others with similar configuration

[nsaints]

Decided to change the configuration and remove the GT kit and return to the original SX barrel.
I’m fortunate in that Ron Moss had previously tuned the barrel fitted to the SX. I’m not into port timings and all that ‘malarkey’ so I’m assuming the barrel has a basic ‘60’s tune’

Speaking with Stu Owen who has helpfully supplied his SX setup I’m going to attempt to replicate his machine. Incidentally my SX here was also owned by Stu Owen.

My constraint is I’m just using what I already own, in the garage.

So it’s on with a large volume airbox, Scootopia clubman, and a Dellorto SH2/22
I’ve already broken my rule as my good friend Alex has swapped me the carb for a rack I owned.

The gearing is per my GT at 5.0
I already know this won’t work following a short test ride. I’ve read a number of posts here regarding tuned SX150 gearing and have decided to revert to the original gearbox
Stu was running pacemaker and sprockets to achieve 5.3. I don’t want to spend ££ so it’s SX150
I already own a nice Li150 gearbox and the sprockets to achieve 5.3 if required. Eg the SX is too revvy.

At the moment I’m waiting on a clutch spider shim of 0.3mm before proceeding.

No pictures at the moment as I’m on my phone, in a B&B attending the IoW rally

Laters…

[Scooterslag]

Decided to change the configuration and remove the GT kit and return to the original SX barrel.
I’m fortunate in that Ron Moss had previously tuned the barrel fitted to the SX. I’m not into port timings and all that ‘malarkey’ so I’m assuming the barrel has a basic ‘60’s tune’

Speaking with Stu Owen who has helpfully supplied his SX setup I’m going to attempt to replicate his machine. Incidentally my SX here was also owned by Stu Owen.

My constraint is I’m just using what I already own, in the garage.

So it’s on with a large volume airbox, Scootopia clubman, and a Dellorto SH2/22
I’ve already broken my rule as my good friend Alex has swapped me the carb for a rack I owned.

The gearing is per my GT at 5.0
I already know this won’t work following a short test ride. I’ve read a number of posts here regarding tuned SX150 gearing and have decided to revert to the original gearbox
Stu was running pacemaker and sprockets to achieve 5.3. I don’t want to spend ££ so it’s SX150
I already own a nice Li150 gearbox and the sprockets to achieve 5.3 if required. Eg the SX is too revvy.

At the moment I’m waiting on a clutch spider shim of 0.3mm before proceeding.

No pictures at the moment as I’m on my phone, in a B&B attending the IoW rally

Laters…

Sounds interesting, I've enquired before about your Ron Moss barrel - be interested to see how well it goes. Got a tuned SX150 barrel going on my serveta build ( done to 60's tuning manual spec) I'm guessing Mr Moss was a bit more generous with his porting than my dremmel efforts Paul

[dickie]

Regarding the gearbox, I had an SX150 box on my tuned 175 and it was ok (but not brilliant) with a v3 bgm clubman.

I changed to a low to mid rpm expansion and it was dire. Swapped gearbox for LI150 and it was cured.

The GP150 or SX150 gearbox is awful for anything other than standard motor. Old story but needs repeating every now and then.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Regarding the gearbox, I had an SX150 box on my tuned 175 and it was ok (but not brilliant) with a v3 bgm clubman.

I changed to a low to mid rpm expansion and it was dire. Swapped gearbox for LI150 and it was cured.

The GP150 or SX150 gearbox is awful for anything other than standard motor. Old story but needs repeating every now and then.

Pretty much what I was about to say. The GP150 I once owned actually was extremely easy & frugal to ride - it had GP200 forks & disc - & although the only other modification was a gutted OEM exhaust, it would mostly keep up with 200's. Top speed was cruising speed & it never lost a beat. Mind you, I was a regular 'niter attendee & despite being six feet tall was sub 11 stone.....