'64 LI125 series3

[dickie]

I used to have a lovely road tune on an SR barrel. Ended up a 193. At the same time I had a mugello 186 in another scoot. The SR barrel was a much nicer ride.

Keep up the good work.

Thanks, that's the sort if thing I want to hear. As long as it cruises at a comfortable 55 and can get somewhere approaching 70, I'll be a happy bunny.

[dickie]

Buy the drip tray from Restorations as they do one that fits well. http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... ash-cover/

Thanks, I'll try one of those when I make my next order.

[dickie]

I'm building my front wheel/hub and think I may have a problem with the front wheel spindle.

Mine is a plain shaft with threads on each end.

All the information I have seen shows that on one end there is a shoulder which locates in the 'fixed' side, i.e. the side that the brakes shoes are on.

Do I have a problem or are some of them without a shoulder?

[foremanbob]

I always find the exploded diagram helpful....



If you go to the SR site you can hover over the part numbers and it tells you what they are....

http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lambretta/sec-9-wheels-brakes-tyres-tubes/

[dickie]

Thhanks Bob, but the exploded view shows a shouldered spindle and when you click on it through SR it is without a shoulder.

Which do I believe?

[DaveTomo]

The one with the shoulder is for a disc brake http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... rake-axle/
Drum brake no shoulder http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... rum-brake/

[dickie]

The one with the shoulder is for a disc brake http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... rake-axle/
Drum brake no shoulder http://www.scooterrestorations.com/lamb ... rum-brake/

Thanks, front wheel now built up and better than new as I've used stainless fasteners throughout and GP brake cam and shoes so I have a chance of stopping.

[dickie]

I'm now in between tasks as I wait for one thing or another to be plated, machined, painted or whatever, so I'm getting my carb ready.

It's a 25mm PHBL.

I have :

ancillotti clubman
Stage 4 185cc ali barrel
All cases, manifolds matched
Varitronic (if that makes any difference?)

The current set up is

D22 needle
90 main jet
AQ268 atomiser
40 slide
53 Pilot
60 Starter
Float valve seems to have 3.00 on it, but I'm struggling to read it so that may be BS.

Are these ok settings for running in? Not too bothered if they're overly rich s that's safe and I'll be getting it set up on a dyno once run in.

[foremanbob]

http://www.lambretta.co.uk/downloads/carbjetting.html

Always find this chart useful for a jetting starting point.

[dickie]

http://www.lambretta.co.uk/downloads/carbjetting.html

Always find this chart useful for a jetting starting point.

Thanks, I've looked at that, but I'm not a carb chap at all. The only thing I think I can glean from that is that my main jet is probably on the small side and I should probably go up to a 100 or more?

As for the others, I don't even know whether they are richer or leaner than those on the list.

Also, I don't know how/if they interact; for example, although I think that my main is too small, maybe the fact that it's with a different atomiser means that they cancel eachother(?)

[Dennie]

Hi,i have a series 2 with a casa 185 top end my setup is as follows,
Main 96
Pilot 53
D26 needle 2nd clip
40 slide
60 choke
Aq 266 atomiser
Af clubman
Fast flow airfilter and drilled airbox
300 float valve
Airscrew 2 turns out
25mm phbl
This setup was done at jb tuning and runs very well with a nice brown plug .All engines will be a bit different just thought this might be of some help to you,keep up the good work regards dennie.

[dickie]

Hi,i have a series 2 with a casa 185 top end my setup is as follows,
Main 96
Pilot 53
D26 needle 2nd clip
40 slide
60 choke
Aq 266 atomiser
Af clubman
Fast flow airfilter and drilled airbox
300 float valve
Airscrew 2 turns out
25mm phbl
This setup was done at jb tuning and runs very well with a nice brown plug .All engines will be a bit different just thought this might be of some help to you,keep up the good work regards dennie.

thanks Dennie, that's just what I was after. I reckon you're set up is comparable to mine, but I also think that it confirms my suspicion that my main is a little weak. I'm going to start with 100 but leave everything else as it is. I'll see how I get on.

thanks again

[dickie]

Got my fork links back from the platers last night, so I built the forks up today.

First problem was that the Indian spring compressor tool I bought needed to be notched so that I could compress the spring fully.



Built the forks up with all new components or any original parts were nickel plated.



Fitted the wheel to make sure both links were straight - everything fine so far. Happy days.



Lunch was brought to me in the garage on the best crockery.



Fitted the forks to the frame............



Spot the deliberate mistake.

3 steps forward and 5 back I reckon

[Simskin]

Lovely job mate another Lambretta on the road is always good news

[dickie]

Got my new forks, correct LI ones this time as the last ones I tried to fit were spanish ones. I had no idea they were 7mm shorter until then.

Anyway, they're in and I'm one small step closer to riding my Lambretta



Spot the subtle difference from the last photo of this............

[Dimitrios_231]

Steering locking ring upside-down

[dickie]

I just fitted my throttle tube and shaft, and it doesn't spin as freely as I'd like.

Before fitting, i got a mate to weld the shaft to the tube to help eliminate slop in the system. I had the olive in place for this, but forgot the bush in the end of the bars.

I can pull it apart and weld again, but i suspect all lambrettas have a slightly stiff throttle action due to the brake cable and wiring that they inevitably rub against.

Don't get me wrong, it's perfectly usable, but i like a throttle that snaps shut when I let go of it.

Opinions please?

[Storkfoot]

Firstly, as you seem to have identified, if you weld it to eliminate slop, the control rod has got to be precisely parallel to the tube. Secondly, on a standard LI without indicators your throttle should be an interference fit. Only a light interference though. It's so it will not spring back when you signal right with your hand.

An exception to this is, say, a Lynx. They have indicators and they have a spring on the control rod in the headset to make sure the throttle snaps shut.

[dickie]

Firstly, as you seem to have identified, if you weld it to eliminate slop, the control rod has got to be precisely parallel to the tube. Secondly, on a standard LI without indicators your throttle should be an interference fit. Only a light interference though. It's so it will not spring back when you signal right with your hand.

An exception to this is, say, a Lynx. They have indicators and they have a spring on the control rod in the headset to make sure the throttle snaps shut.

Thanks Storkfoot, i hadn't thought about that as I haven't ridden a bike without indicators since my 150 super in 1986!

Anyway, it turns ok so I'll leave it like it is.

[dickie]

Making progress. Just fitted engine.

Stand was terrible. I had to cut 40mm off the bottom of each leg and slot the holes in the hooks and.splash plate. The slotting was necessary to clear the ancillotti silencer on the starboard side. The 40mm was due to the front wheel being 100mm off the ground. I also bent the stops slightly to allow the stand to go a little further forward. It's all hunky dory now.

I'm off to work away for a week in a couple of hours then when I get back I'll be hooking up the harness, cables and fitting my carb, so it should be running in about 10 days. Jetting should be easy as I'm using Gt186 with clubman and 25mm phbl so I've just followed rich Taylor's advice then gone slightly richer.