LCGB Forums

Just about finished my 1963 Li150 this weekend. Just the bridge piece and some badges to go. I bought this in 1991 and it was on the road until 2006 when it was retired to various back yards and random garages, rusting away. Started to dismantle it in September 2015... Not a perfect resto but good enough for me and my needs. Engine is a cast iron 175 Stage 4 with big box exhaust and 20mm carb. Nice to have it on the road again.

Looks Fine to me well done is the engine standard ?

Looks nice that.

Thanks
The engine is a cast iron 175 Stage 4 with a KBM and a 20mm carb through the airbox.

The squish is a bit tight at 0.9mm so I've ordered a 0.5mm head gasket to get it closer to 1.5mm. Another stripdown!

Just have to fit the bridge piece, add the badges and powder coat the wheel rims. Happy with it though.

This is all my opinion, but hopefully sound advice.

I wouldn’t rush to increase your squish too much, if @ all, if I were you. I reckon that 0.75 mm is an absolute minimum but I’ve known racers run with less.

However, if you feel compelled, & your port timings should stand any minor effects, you should consider eliminating head gaskets by using thicker base gaskets.

Nice bike, BTW.

I bet I'm not the only person to squirm uncomfortably when they see the fuel tap left on.....

I'm sure you'll forgive me if this is stating the obvious but I have heard it said that you should tell the Powder-coater not to put it on too thick on wheel rims, especially around the studs.
Lovely Scooter mate

Thanks for the comments. The fuel tap is on 'cos I was about to ride off on it, then thought maybe I should take a photo while it's new...

Been riding it to work while it's dry and sunny, and it sometimes feels like the choke is on, or it's flooding or something. So, a few teething trouble to take care of.

Is 1mm squish OK for a road machine? The alternative was 1.7mm which seemed a bit big. I'm reluctant to strip the whole thing down again...!

So I've been running around on it and ironing out the wrinkles. Put a badge on the horn casting, but the issue is starting the bl00dy thing. It seems really rich, and usually starts well from cold, but a pig when warm.

It's an SH1/20 through the air box, with a 105 main jet. 108 was too much and it was four stroking a lot. It was running a 5899-2 atomiser which is one of the richer ones, and a 5914-2 slide. Looking at the standard jetting tables, all the carbs that run a 5914-2 slide run a 5899-5 atomiser. So swapped the 5899-2 for a 5899-6 and bingo - started second kick and rides really nicely. Then I tried a 108, but it's not as happy. I've ridden about 50 miles today…and it seemed OK..

As I wheeled it to the garage, I noticed a knocking from the rear wheel. About once a wheel revolution. What would that be?! Doesn't do it if you wheel it backwards.