Thanks for your patience. On the fourth attempt it worked out.
So I've been slowly working through getting a space to work on my TV and have finally created a space with a workbench, some shelves and enough space to unpack all the boxes from 10+ years ago. Thankfully they were all well labelled and packaged and I can finally stop reading Sticky's and start work.
As I said, it would be a slow burner and I'm managing the odd stolen hour here and there between school runs and work and all the other things that get in the way of what I really want to be doing. Onwards....
The plug was missing and open to the elements and the piston was truly siezed in the barrel. I soaked it in diesel, heated it, froze the piston, left it to soak again. Weeks at a time. I repeated that cycle and read all the forum posts I could find on it and eventually cut a slice up the piston with a dremel on both sides and it was well and truly rusted to the barrel. Solid. During this I damaged the flange on the barrel and was gutted. I was pointed very kindly in the direction of Chiselspeed who can re-sleeve and re-port it with a custom built line with a new 62mm NOS piston. It is not cheap, but allows me to keep the original TV175 barrel which i cannot find anywhere else (unless anyone has a NOS barrel they fancy giving a good home to

). I need to move on from that though.
That however was where the bad news stopped (so far). I had filled the chaincase with gearbox oil 10 years ago and it all came apart exactly as Sticky suggested with the pictures and looks to be in good nick.
The clutch came out nicely, though the plates were all rusted together. I guess the springs and clutch plates should be replaced. Are surflex fine as they seem close to original? What about make for the springs, if i want it to last? I can get Casa stuff form Rimini out here quite easily, but the difference in price between a set of engine bearings from Scootopia and RLC is huge (£55 vs £150 odd). The buying choices are huge and I don't want to cut corners but reading through many threads, it seems price isn't always an indicator of the better product.

The shim gap on the gearbox was around .45mm . I believe this should be much tighter (up to a max of .30mm). Do i just replace the shim when I rebuild the engine or could it be a sign of something else going on behind. All the teeth seemed in really good nick on all gears with the only slight marks being where the kickstart engaged.

I have been in touch with Jem Booth for replacement keys and he can sort me out with keys for all 3 locks. He's also been incredibly helpful in answering questions and offering support. I have been persuaded by this thread and by him to keep the rebuild as original as possible given its completeness. With that in mind, the carb was completely missing and he has offered either a BS5 (to remain completely original) or a BS7. They are both missing the top alloy castings held on with two screws that supports the throttle cable gubbins. I am tempted by the BS5 with an upgraded BS7 kit to alleviate problems with the BS5. Does anyone have a replacement top casting for the BS5? I also need to chase up for the NOS upgrade kit which I think Rimini had according to Stickys.
As for other things, how do you treat replacement fixings such as the chaincase cover bolts? The originals are all still solid and present. Should I replace them for stainless fixings and new bolts/washers or reuse. Instict tells me to 'upgrade' to new fixings but that might be misplaced. The dowels which were i was careful to look out for were also only at the rear of the case- the front one was missing when I opened it up, so I need to replace that. Likewise I need to clean the gasket off the face but don't want to do any damage and most of the videos I've seen on youTube for gasket cleaning seems fairly rough and end up with wet and dry paper to create a smooth mating surface. What's the best way of clearing off a 40+ year gasket that is baked on.
We also don't seem to have vapour blasting out here in the sticks in Italy and with all the scrubbing and toothbrushes so far I end up with a dullish finish to the case. Can I use light aluminium polishing with pads and compounds to lift some of the stubborn dark staining to the case? I can't risk it accidentally coming back from the strippers having been grit blasted, so want a solution that I can work at gently at home.
I told you it would be a slow burner. I can't imagine how difficult this would have been years ago with Sticky's or the internet with forums like this. Thanks again guys for this huge resource.
