LCGB Forums

Hi All,
First post, although been a lurker for a while.
After some advice from you learned people, got back into the scene a couple of years ago after almost 30yrs away.
I bought an Indian GP & set about getting it the way I wanted, to that end I had a brand new TS1 225 engine built, spec as follows:

GP200 4 speed gearbox
50 x 110 Jap crank conversion
3mm Packer
82 Pitch Iwis chain
19 x 46 Gearing = 4.8 Final drive
Casa Lambretta layshaft
Extended 165mm cylinder studs with wasted reduction to 7.2mm
70mm AF cylinder head
9.6/1 Compression ratio
AC 12 Volt electronic kit
2Kg Flywheel
Supertourer Exhaust

Ignition timing set at 17° static btdc
Mikuni TMX35mm
Jetting needle EN56, second clip, 330 main jet, Number 6 slide, 2.25 Pilot Jet.

Have taken her out & she is very boggy when pulling away, ok once you get going and get a bit of throttle on, only done a couple of miles max, town riding so need to run her in. I should add that I am using 99 ron & did balls up the oil mix, so probably running 5%, I believe I should be at 4% for running in?
Will my ballsed up mix be causing/adding to the boggyness? Should I just use the fuel in the tank and then see what it's like with the correct mix?

Sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible.
TIA for any replies.

I can’t assist you with the TMX35 jetting but, from my experience, all the Supertourer did for my TS1 performance was give me a great big flat spot around 4200 revs. I persevered with it for way too long before I fitted a CST3 and later, an Avanti ex box. Both the CST3 and ex box eradicated the flat spot which made the scooter a joy to ride once more.

Although adding extra oil for the purposes of running in is common practice it would appear, it is wrong to do so.

‘Running in’ means ‘wearing in’ primarily the piston & rings to the bore to ensure a good fit for optimum engine performance. Having additional oil will likely hinder that process, rather then help it along.

However, adding extra oil to the petrol means that the air/fuel mix ratio is weakened. Not good if the carburation is spot on, but in your case, the air/fuel ratio sound too rich.

I would advise you to research a tad what oil is likely to suit you best & is easily available & affordable, find out a definitive recommended mix ratio for said oil & try & stick with it. For my twopenny’s worth, 4 % sounds about right for a good fully synthetic as your engine has a reed valve. Theoretically they should have more oil than piston ported to ensure the crankshaft con-rod big end bearings get adequately lubricated. Personally, I don’t buy into that reason entirely although the inlet path to below piston on a piston ported engine would appear to be advantageous. What is definite is that reed valve engines should produce more power, therefore be under a greater load.

If you have a car, just forget about any similarity. Remember, the engine is fan air cooled. Greater revs means more cooling. Don’t be afraid to let the engine rev. We’re not talking about screaming it, just don’t labour the engine. During running in, keep changing up & down the gearbox.

As for the air/fuel ratio, get your petrol/oil brand & mix established, then plug chops - which is a subject within itself(!) - but for the sake of adding an additional ‘kill’ switch near the throttle twist grip, made much easier & well worth doing. I’ve fitted good (high amps) toggle switches to DIY brackets off the bar just for such a purpose & that is conducive to achieving accurate readings.

Good Luck but I’d like to hear the results of your first plug chops - say @ @ 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 & a tentative full throttle…..

I take it 50/110 Jap Crank is a typo and it should read 58/110?

Rich Oswald wrote:I take it 50/110 Jap Crank is a typo and it should read 58/110?

You are correct, sorry.

Thank's for the replies so far, appreciated

Try the needle clip on the top notch to see if it makes it better.If not, try a 57 needle on the bottom notch and work up until it pulls away cleanly.Presumably your idle is nice and crisp when revving in neutral?

Wack wrote:Try the needle clip on the top notch to see if it makes it better.If not, try a 57 needle on the bottom notch and work up until it pulls away cleanly.Presumably your idle is nice and crisp when revving in neutral?

Thanks for the reply, Yes, idles lovely.

idles nice cos of the 22.5 pilot bud, don't be afraid to reduce that main jet towards a 300, reduce 5 @ a time, & don't be afraid to use a 57EN or even a 58EN needle.
mines a TS1 245 with a 290 main, 22.5 pilot, 58EN.
But every engine is different, causiously reduce that main jet by 5's & try a 57EN P2, One part @ a time

hullygully wrote:idles nice cos of the 22.5 pilot bud, don't be afraid to reduce that main jet towards a 300, reduce 5 @ a time, & don't be afraid to use a 57EN or even a 58EN needle.
mines a TS1 245 with a 290 main, 22.5 pilot, 58EN.
But every engine is different, causiously reduce that main jet by 5's & try a 57EN P2, One part @ a time

Cheers for that, appreciated. Any idea where to get the jets from? All the kits drop in 10 that I can find.

BGM do a range of jets, try to buy one, instead of of buying individual jets as they'll scr*w you on evilbay/some dealers................... or borrow from someone who already runs one.
where in the country are you as someone could assist bud?

West Coast of Scotland buddy. Will have a look at the bgm kits. Thanks again.

B1gD0gu3 wrote:West Coast of Scotland buddy. Will have a look at the bgm kits. Thanks again.

Wouldn’t bother with bgm jets as they are far east made and not particularly accurate on bore size
Use KMT brand which are uk made and bang on with tolerances.
Our teams Ts1 230 endurance racer carb spec is
Mikuni tmx35 slide 60, neeedle 53, 360 main,22.5 idle, tiny bit fluffy at the bottom but certainly pulls very nicely after that