LCGB Forums

A few years ago I was given a very knackered Spanish LI150 motor which has been lying under the bench waiting for its moment.

2019-10-30_07-53-33 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

20191026_153620 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

20191026_153629 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

Well, its moment has arrived. It is putting up a real battle, but I'm getting pretty good at tackling these awkward bastards.

Hub off without any real drama, but I doubt I can use these shoes again

20191026_160407 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

Used a 50 mm holesaw to attack the piston

20191026_163454 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

Then I poured 3 kettles of boiling water over the casing to loosen things up a bit. Somehow the barrel seems to have moved the first 1mm or so just from the heat, so it was pretty easy to remove with a little persuasion from a nylon hammer.

IMG-20191030-WA0006 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

The mag flange is putting up a good fight, but my will is too strong for it.

I knocked it 6 mm or so by belting the crank with a 2lb hammer and a few more kettles of boiling water. Then I had to add WD40, knock it back in and out several times. I thought the neighbours might be getting pissed off, so it got a reprieve but I'll get it tomorrow night.

IMG-20191030-WA0010 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

Brilliant

Richard.
Has the angle grinder been deployed yet?
Cheers Shane

shane BBoys wrote:Richard.
Has the angle grinder been deployed yet?
Cheers Shane

No Shane, not yet. I might have to cut the small end off to get the crank out as the rod is jammed though.

It doesn't matter if I do as it's pretty much all scrap apart from the casings but I'll try to avoid it just for the challenge.

So, i got the mag flange out with too much drama. It was a case of knocking it back and forth with a bit of oil on the sliding faces until it was easy.

20191031_183236 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

Next problem was that the splines were too burred to fit through the bearing. At this point I got the angle grinder out just to take the mushrooming off. I don't think that counts as cheeking but is certainly borderline.

20191031_183543 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

The con rod was jammed solid at about 90 degrees, stopping it from being wiggled out. I drove a cold chisel between the webs to loosen it up a bit and that proved to free it up just enough to get it down to BDC. And out it came

20191031_185533 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

The seal plate screws will likely be a pain, but as it's Spanish, they have philips heads. Some might dislike these, but on a shitty engine like this, if you need to drill them out, they automatically centre the drill bit for you; which is nice.

2019-10-31_07-10-52 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

got the casings vapour blasted from a new place 5 minutes drive from me for only £40!

20191110_120946 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

Pretty well pock-marked as it's obviously had water in the bottom end for a good few years. Not really a problem, just ugly.

20191110_121007 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

unfortunately, cleaning the mag housing revealed this. I don't think I'm guilty as i got the mag housing off by belting the crank, but maybe? My mate (a very good mechanical engineer) reckons we should just skim it flat and use it, as the crack doesn't go right through the material, so no leak and there is no load at this point. Personally, I'm inclined to buy a new one as they're only £35 for a UNI one.
20191110_120754 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr

I'm definitely guilty of this one though - ham-fisted fool!
20191110_121229 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr
at least I've got an excuse to try that low temperature aluminium welding stuff.

dickie wrote:I'm definitely guilty of this one though - ham-fisted fool!
20191110_121229 by richardhenderson1968, on Flickr
at least I've got an excuse to try that low temperature aluminium welding stuff.

Why do you need to do anything there That hole is chain case side & is in the bearing housing, which in turn is lubricated by the chain case oil. The seal will continue to function in keeping the petroil & chain case oil separate.

+1
The seal and halite washer will still do its job!

Cheers gents. You're right. I wasn't thinking straight.

I'd drop a bit of JB weld on that just as a precautionary measure

Love it great Thread G.

dscscotty wrote:I'd drop a bit of JB weld on that just as a precautionary measure

I agree scotty. Even though I don't think there's any real point, I'm going to weld it. As much as anything else, I just want to learn how to do it.

Mr G in NYC wrote:Love it great Thread G.

Thanks. I aim to please.

And clever blokes tell you stuff you need to know.

dickie wrote:

dscscotty wrote:I'd drop a bit of JB weld on that just as a precautionary measure

I agree scotty. Even though I don't think there's any real point, I'm going to weld it. As much as anything else, I just want to learn how to do it.

Fair enough. Is this the low temperature, 'user friendly' stuff that is more akin to brazing/soldering? Removing every speck of oil will be difficult, I would imagine

It'd be good to see how you get on, because crankcase mag-side transfer ports often crack due to age/enlargement

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:
Fair enough. Is this the low temperature, 'user friendly' stuff that is more akin to brazing/soldering? Removing every speck of oil will be difficult, I would imagine

It'd be good to see how you get on, because crankcase mag-side transfer ports often crack due to age/enlargement

Yes, that's the stuff. I've bought a bottle of mapp gas and a new nozzle which has cost about £35 but about a fiver for the rods. The casing has been vapour blasted, so is clean with a good key. Low risk where I'm doing it and I'll practice on that mag flange as I'm going to scrap it despite what my mate says.

Great thread. Always enjoy seeing these Dickie. Thanks for sharing

dickie wrote:.....Yes, that's the stuff. I've bought a bottle of mapp gas and a new nozzle which has cost about £35 but about a fiver for the rods. The casing has been vapour blasted, so is clean with a good key. Low risk where I'm doing it and I'll practice on that mag flange as I'm going to scrap it despite what my mate says.

I'd be interested to see/hear how you get on with the rods as I have some I' ve been meaning to have a go with for a while now. the video looks too good to be true

coaster wrote:
I'd be interested to see/hear how you get on with the rods as I have some I' ve been meaning to have a go with for a while now. the video looks too good to be true

It's too easy to get cynical about these adverts, but since I bought the abmaster 3000 from the shopping channel at 230 am one weekend, the ladies just can't leave me alone.

Anyway, I'm off into the garage to have a go at welding or destroying a perfectly good engine case. We'll know in half an hour or so.

Well, I'm £35 poorer and I've learnt that it's about as effective as the abmaster 3000.

JB weld it is then.

I need a flywheel. Usually, I use a 2kg gp type, but I'm thinking of being a bit different and using an af lightweight one at about 1.4kg.

I'll have external trigger, so no issue there, but I'm sure I've heard of problems with them.

Anyone know more?