LCGB Forums

Quick question for anyone running a GT186 with a 'standard' 58x107 crank. Is there anyway to avoid using a cylinder cowl spacer/packer? I've heard that Series 1 cylinder cowls are a good fit, but by my calculations it will need 3mm spacer/packer.

What are others running? Looking for a combo that makes the spark plug easy to remove, and preferably doesn't need a spacer between the cylinder head nut and the cowling. Ultimately, I'd also prefer to avoid both types of Series 3 cowlings with the intake scoop, as I believe it will foul the TM24 float bowl. Too much to ask?

Why doesn’t a standard cowl fit with standard crank ? The plug hole is of centre to normal ones my 240 needed dremelling to get good access

Does anyone make extended cylinder head nuts? Using the long BGM cylinder head nuts on a porcupine head there is a 14mm gap between top of nut and front of GP/dl cowling. I'd prefer not have to make up spacer.

Never seen one. I just made up a spacer with a short piece of studding and another nut.

I also have spacers welded on my cowling as using a 115mm conrod.

vegansydney wrote:Does anyone make extended cylinder head nuts? Using the long BGM cylinder head nuts on a porcupine head there is a 14mm gap between top of nut and front of GP/dl cowling. I'd prefer not have to make up spacer.

www.lambrettaupgrades.co.uk For chissey
Taylor Tuning on face ache, both supply cowl packers in different sizes.
Cheers Shane.

vegansydney wrote:Does anyone make extended cylinder head nuts? Using the long BGM cylinder head nuts on a porcupine head there is a 14mm gap between top of nut and front of GP/dl cowling. I'd prefer not have to make up spacer.

Actually, search for “Hexagon Threading Studding Connector”

Thanks for all the recommendations! I have a selection of cylinder cowl 'packers' that I picked up when visiting the UK last month. Rich Taylor has since confirmed that he makes extra long cylinder head nuts specifically for the porcupine heads.