LCGB Forums

I've just tried to set a SIP vape up for the first time. It's the static version.

Using the marks I set it to 17 deg BTDC, but it runs much worse than it did when I initially set it at a complete guess of half way across the slots in the stator.

It's obviously way too far advanced as it backfires when you're kicking it over.

Tomorrow night I'll go back to basics and do it properly with a strobe.

But just out of curiosity, is it even possible to set these up just by finding TDC, then using the timing marks on the stator and flywheel?

have you set your old marks with the head off?

hullygully wrote:have you set your old marks with the head off?

I use a positive stop and mark TDC half way betwixt the 2. I think you can do it better with a dial gauge, but this method is accurate enough for me.

I set up three, all the static variety.

The instructions always have me scratching my head but I get there in the end. There’s a CamLam video somewhere on line, maybe Youtube, which helps a bit.

Essentially though, whatever way I have done it, I have ended up putting tippex marks on the flywheel boss and/or, the flywheel, and strobing it from there with a good handful of revs as, from memory, the static version has a small amount of advance at low revs.

I mark TDC the same way as you. I check it several times before I believe it though

There’s the one below on Facebook of you use Facebook from cam lam

https://fb.watch/ceQWvhwuov/

Thanks gents. I set it up the cam lam way, but didn't strobe it. The markings must be a country mile out. OR, I didn't do what I thought I'd done. I'll re-check and strobe it when he brings it back.

Going to recheck mine but watching the video do you strobe without the fan?

Jeff t wrote:Going to recheck mine but watching the video do you strobe without the fan?

You can do either but I just extended the mark from the boss to the flywheel outer. I then marked the boss and flywheel so they always go back on in the same position.

Well, he brought it back this morning and the problem was quite obvious once I took the fan off again; I hadn't tightened the screws on the stator plate, muppet.

Anyway, I set it the cam lam way and verified with a strobe. It was about 2 degrees out, so again, it just shows that you need to strobe properly anyway. Regardless of how good or bad the SIP kit is, if your crank keyway is slightly out then it can't work just from the marks.

That said, fundamentally the problem was my poor workmanship, not the kit.

Just to add to this post, I've just fitted a Vape Sport to my GT200, I chose the Sport in the hope that it might improve torque in the lowere RPM range but it does add some complication to the setup process. I watched a couple of videos on YouTube first, Kickback Garage helped a little but he said that he had no idea what the timing marks on the stator were for so ignored them. I heard it suggested elsewhere that they only applied to Vespas Thankfully the Camlam video has ironed out all missunderstanding and I will start again using the timing marks prior to strobing without the fan

Unfortunately I struggled to get a clear reading of the strobe marks and ended up with full advance which 'seemed' to be about right at a static of 22 degrees but whn I revved it hard to see if it retarded to 17 it started stuttering then backfired and died....Yep, top set of reeds totally gone

AS others have said, the quality looks good but appart from the poor instructions by critisism would be that a flywheel holder shouls be included in the kit, it is expensive enough as it is.

Coaster, I'm running the exact same and think I have set static timing at 21, but just doing a thorough check this morning with Busswangle. Assuming it is 21 degrees static, then at at 5000rpm, with my gearing I'm doing 50mph, the SIP sport chart says my timing is -1 from static, ie 20 degrees. Trouble is that when I'm out with a few others, 50mph is a typical speed and my CHT does get hot. So have you had any issues with static at 22 degree and hot temperatures. Or what have others set static timing at with a SIP Sport.

Was looking at MB’s tech guide on the vape system and he says go static version as the sports type map is not good for touring setups

I have gone static but I do a mod to Ensure that the fan and the rotor are always replaced in the same position.

With the fan fitted, I drill a 2mm hole through the fan (between a chosen couple of the six screw holes) and into the rotor. I glue a loose needle bearing roller into the hole on the rotor and let it cure. This creates a locating dowel. The fan will now slip onto the rotor in the same position every time, allowing you to put two timing marks, one on the outside of the fan and another in the usual place on the lip of the mag flange.

You can then strobe it up to the same marks everytime.