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OK strange one for me as I hate electrics, I have a camlam/tino sacchi varitronic system and after some probing found that the stator was giving me a dead short (between the battery poz and neg connections) through some of my wiring, I've taken the stator off (bit annoying as I've not even run it yet) and sure enough blue gives a connection to the body of the stator pack as it should as its the earth, the yellow also gives a 100% connection to the body as does the red/white, and the red also shows a reading but not a 100% connection to the body as I'm guessing it goes through the coils some how, i've checked the resistance between the blue and red reading about .299 on 2k setting and between the blue and yellow reading 00.6 on 200 setting, gives zero reading on the 2k setting not sure if all of this adds up so hoping someone can tell me it sounds faulty, as I've mentioned before I hate wiring and this is making my head hurt.......................

I have this written in my notes about Varitronic resistances.

Check hot and cold, but 250 to 350 on the blue earth, and red ignition.

Leotech wrote:I have this written in my notes about Varitronic resistances.

Check hot and cold, but 250 to 350 on the blue earth, and red ignition.

Can't check the hot as it's not running yet, but I got .299 between blue and red on 2K meter setting, but it's the fact all but one of the wires are earthing which is causing a short between poz and neg leads to the battery, dis the stator and its all OK.

Small update...........the stator has been test by Cambridge Lambretta and all is good with it, this wiring is doing my head in, even having slightly different colours (red, yellow, blue and white/red) coming out the stator compared to the kit instructions (yellow/white, white/red, blue and red/black) is so confusing

Lord-Spanner wrote:

Leotech wrote:I have this written in my notes about Varitronic resistances.

Check hot and cold, but 250 to 350 on the blue earth, and red ignition.

Can't check the hot as it's not running yet, but I got .299 between blue and red on 2K meter setting, but it's the fact all but one of the wires are earthing which is causing a short between poz and neg leads to the battery, dis the stator and its all OK.

For checking hot I boil them in a pan on the stove. Its quite good with the Indian ones for picking up issues.

Leotech wrote:

Lord-Spanner wrote:

Leotech wrote:I have this written in my notes about Varitronic resistances.

Check hot and cold, but 250 to 350 on the blue earth, and red ignition.

Can't check the hot as it's not running yet, but I got .299 between blue and red on 2K meter setting, but it's the fact all but one of the wires are earthing which is causing a short between poz and neg leads to the battery, dis the stator and its all OK.

For checking hot I boil them in a pan on the stove. Its quite good with the Indian ones for picking up issues.

That's different, never herd of that one but I'm pretty sure now the issue lies with me , didn't realise that some (one I think) of the regulator/stator output/input connections are AC, as I'm running a full DC system with battery I'm not sure the AC connection is helping things

Ok so this issue is totally me being a complete TW%T and getting all my AC's and DC's mixed up , long and short of it is I had a battery negative (DC) from the battery which was connected to the frame leg then to the engine, to the coil and to the regulator which are all AC obviously apart from the DC trickle feed to the battery as I haven't converted the stator to run full DC and not sure I will, at nearly a 100 notes each it would be an expensive balls up, it can always be done at a later date I guess, and not sure if this varitronic conversion can be done as it needs a new regulator to work the full DC correctly which might upset the advance/retard auto settings when it's running.

Converting to full DC has no bearing on the advance/ retard.

Wack wrote:Converting to full DC has no bearing on the advance/ retard.

oh ok, I thought the A & R was done through the regulator which needs to be changed to go full DC on a varitronic from what I read anyway

Question for you also......do you know anyone that could covert a the varitronic stator to run full DC? I'm sure I could do it but doing it right so it works correctly would be a different story