New build Start up RT230 Reed valve

[jdevane5]

Ive just built a Reed valve RT230 and just done first start up.
Breather is kicking out a bit of oil but Im guessing it will for a bit?
Scoot ticks over well and electrics now all good but as soon as I engage clutch it stalls -Is this just a case of more clutch adjust -I have the SiL Multi kit Rack and its mid way on setting right now. Gears are a bit sloppy so I need to tighten cables.
Also touch of the black stuff from the exhaust manifold to Expansion pipe (sprung joint) -Im thinking of taking apart and adding some silcone to the joint?

Its also not easy to start, compression is insane, need to get my leg in training.
Does though sound great!

Will get it on a dyno but wanted to get it roadworthy as I need to get it MOT'd and registered (SIL GP150 91)...so any tips on clutch set up and the oil breather welcome.

[jonoy]

Could be your idle set to low so when engaging clutch it stalls

[Adam_Winstone]

Depends which clutch you have and, if I'm understanding correctly what you have, the AF easy clutch mechanism doesn't work on all clutches. Standard type clutches rely on more travel and plate separation than most cassette clutches, meaning that the easy clutch, which functions by less effort being traded for greater cable travel needed, often doesn't provide the travel needed; not fully de-clutching, hence the stall.

If you put the cable on the first (shortest) setting and readjust the cable to suit, you are likely to find that the clutch then works but is considerably harder to pull in. Doing this test will show whether you have a clutch issue (e.g. insufficient space for complete plate separation) or an issue with the easy clutch (not compatible with your choice of clutch).

Good luck

[shamrockexpress]

thats exactly what Ben told me at AF.
For some reason they dont mention the UNI set up only works on their cassette clutches.......took me months of head scratching to find this out and when i finally got the hold of Ben he said yeah thats right

[Adam_Winstone]

They can and do work on some other clutches but only those that can function reduced travel. Unfortunately, many clutches do not, especially traditional 4-plate and deep basket 5-plates; requiring the additional depth for the extra plates and, therefore needing even more mechanism travel for plate separation.

Used with a compatible clutch these will work beautifully. Even on s standard clutch or the 5-plate deep basket type they should work equally well as a standard lever arm, provided they are on the closest cable position, which means no pull reduction over standard BUT the rack and pinion system at the GP brush (GP sidecase and clutch assembly required) should still give some function and 'feel' benefits.

TBH I love the fact that the arm has flats for a spanner for decompressing the assembly,which saves you from needing 3 hands to do the same with a standard clutch arm!

[jdevane5]

Thanks all, I'll try adjusting the clutch arm to the lowest "standard" position and see if that makes a difference.
Its an AF 6 Plate clutch fiited.
Tick over is a tad low so will increase slightly to see if that helps also.

Its the Uni Multi clutch fitted as per https://www.torbaylambretta.co.uk/produ ... lti-clutch

[Rich Oswald]

I got an AF/UNI easy clutch to work fine with a four plate and it made a big difference for me. Darren Scott told me this after he did all the initial testing.

[Adam_Winstone]

Hi Rich

Which arm setting and what, if any, modification were needed to the cork and steels stack (incl. top plate)?


The rack and pinion design does help action, even when the arm is on the closest / standard notch, although benefits for lever action are not as great as outer arm notches.

Cheers

Adam

[Rich Oswald]

Hi Adam,

I used the standard arm setting, the one nearest the tyre.

No mod's to the corks or plates.

I had to change to the GP type pressure plate with the nipple and the only other thing I did was a slight bit of dremmeling in the casing housing where the wheel goes.

Rich'

[Adam_Winstone]

Hi Rich

Thanks for the feedback. Typically, the AF easy clutch does give adjustment issues with standard assemblies and/or the deeper traditional 5 or 6-plates but your example shows that the right combination of components can work.