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I have yet to start building my new engine ( and have not decided on the spec yet ) but it will most likely have an AF clutch in it.

I want to retain std looking levers ( so no doglegs ) and the few I have tried have had a lever that's a little heavy for me.

Does the AF clutch take 'std' clutch springs ? ie can I fit any spring made for any Lambretta clutch in there ?

I am probably looking at something to handle around 20 - 22 bhp max

I have AF Road clutch fitted with Braided Nylon lined cable nice soft lever

Toddy wrote:I have AF Road clutch fitted with Braided Nylon lined cable nice soft lever

+1

Rich'

In my experience, it is rarely the clutch itself that is responsible for stiff operation.
Sure, the leverage ratio is poor on lambretta's, but by making sure the lever pivot works properly (I install a small bearing in there) is very important.
Similarly, a good nylon lined quality cable, correctly routed, and a new clutch actuating cam for Li / SX machines will make all the difference.
The standard AF cassette clutch is very good for sub 30hp motors. Make sure you only use a quality chain though.

Thanks for the replies so far

F&F - could you tell me a bit about your lever bearing conversion

TrackTen wrote:Thanks for the replies so far

F&F - could you tell me a bit about your lever bearing conversion

+1

Certainly.
Your old lever housing probably has ovalated holes where the pivot bolt goes through. Same probably applies to the hole in your lever and your bolt is probably part worn through as well. Slop + slop + slop = poor action.
To restore the housing and the lever back to stock round 7mm holes, I fit a flanged bearing upper and lower in the housing and 2 in the lever. These are MF117 bearings, which you can get anywhere (google it) and these are 7 x 11 x 2.5mm. The sealed bearing versions are 3mm thick. You may be able to use these though I've never tried.
You may need to use the non flanged type (MR117) in the lever if your lever is a standard lambretta spec (I don't use stock levers as I prefer the extra leverage you get from using a modified Yamaha lever)
Just be careful when drilling out the holes though, as a standard drill bit will not give you a perfectly round 11mm hole. I use a milling machine with an end mill cutter but equally you could drill out to 10mm and use a reamer to finish the job. The advantage here is that you don't need to remove the housing from the headset, but you will need a steady hand. A dab of Loctite secures them in place.
Finally, you will need a new pivot bolt and locknut (or nyloc)

Incidentally, I do the same for the trunnions and linkages for the gears but this gets a bit more involved. No slop though, and instead of metal wearing away you just need to replace these very cheap bearings every few years.
Job's a carrot.

I've never felt the need to do a bearing conversion on the clutch lever, but agree that the principle is sound & what Fast n Furious states about the wear of the soft, aluminium alloy parts reinforces my view about the gearbox end. However, I do have a hydraulic front brake lever somewhere that we put a phosphor bronze bush in that was very smooth.

Call me a cynic, but the recent 'innovation' of the anodised aluminium 'sexed up' gear-change linkages are going to wear very quickly mounted, as they are, on to the equivalent of a road going pneumatic drill.....