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New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 11:32 pm
by Norrie Bodge
Lads
I wanna rebuild a crank for TS1 motor
want it with a good strong 110mm rod with a top quality big end bearing
So what’s best to go for & who to buy from?

Cheers

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 9:45 pm
by dscscotty
What webs do you have?

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Mon Dec 18, 2017 10:16 pm
by Norrie Bodge
SIL webs
its currently fitted with a 110 Tameni rod
but was thinking it & the big end maybe not strong enough?

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 1:25 am
by soullad
Ever considered a Vespa Ape rod?
110 mm x 18 mm

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 1:41 am
by dscscotty
Ever considered a Vespa Ape rod?
110 mm x 18 mm


Ape rods can be used to good effect, however do lack lubrication slots/oil feeds around the big end.

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 7:14 pm
by martyn dwane
Norrie Bodge wrote:Lads
I wanna rebuild a crank for TS1 motor
want it with a good strong 110mm rod with a top quality big end bearing
So what’s best to go for & who to buy from?

Cheers


my Choice would be Harry Barlow. leicester , Pro0porting.

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 10:20 pm
by Norrie Bodge
So which Bearing?
& is Ape the only option for a 110mm Rod ??

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:27 pm
by Storkfoot
I am no expert so I am more than happy to be corrected.

I work on having the width of the webs at 40.5mm. This needs to be borne in mind.

A Yamaha 125LCCS conrod will need the webs machining to 11.65 to fit shims at big end. The bearing from an RD500BE has been recommended to me by people whose opinion I value.

As to what I did for my TS1, I fitted a Kawasaki KE 175 110 conrod as it fits straight into the webs without machining. Visually it doesn’t look quite as sturdy as the Yamaha option, however, I reckoned that a KE175 is a bit more powerful than a TS1, and so, would be able to handle the power.

The same crank has been in since I built the engine in 2010 over many thousands of miles. Next time I strip the engine, possibly next Winter ( ha, that’s tempting fate), I shall change the conrod.

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Thu Dec 21, 2017 10:40 am
by HxPaul
Get in touch with AF,they build cranks to your spec.

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 5:25 pm
by corrado
I've had several SIL GP200 cranks re-rodded by the same people that Paul "storkfoot" uses, Grampian in Liverpool I presume.
I've had the 110 Yam rods that fit without shims or the Kawasaki [slimmer rod and bearing] that fits with shims. Grampian can't understand why we'd want shims when most motorbikes don't need them. Probably had at least 6 of each and never had an issue with any of them. They specialise in cranks and pistons so they know a bit.
As mentioned though AF, Harry Barlow & Darrel Taylor to name a few will all build you a quality crank.
Or bite the bullet and buy a Casa one for @ £400

Re: New Rod & Big end options ?

PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 9:53 pm
by Storkfoot
corrado wrote:I've had several SIL GP200 cranks re-rodded by the same people that Paul "storkfoot" uses, Grampian in Liverpool I presume.
I've had the 110 Yam rods that fit without shims or the Kawasaki [slimmer rod and bearing] that fits with shims. Grampian can't understand why we'd want shims when most motorbikes don't need them. Probably had at least 6 of each and never had an issue with any of them. They specialise in cranks and pistons so they know a bit.
As mentioned though AF, Harry Barlow & Darrel Taylor to name a few will all build you a quality crank.
Or bite the bullet and buy a Casa one for @ £400


I avoided the aspect of shims in this discussion as you’ll often get shot down. But, I do have an engine with Indian GP 200 webs with an RD400 115mm conrod. There are no shims on that, at the suggestion of Grampian.

After Adria, I stripped the engine and whilst there is a little bit of pitting in the small end, the crank was true and the big end area was fine. Not sure of the overall miles on this crank but it’ll be over 5000, maybe as many as 8000 miles.