Sometimes we forget the simple things

[Storkfoot]

Properly functioning Surflex 5 plate clutch on TS1 but changed gear housing and lever as old pivot hole was way over 8mm

Clutch then starts dragging badly. I then wasted a couple of hours before I remembered that sometimes just taking a dremel to the lever works



Just thought I’d share this as it has helped me sort clutches out in the past.

[Adam_Winstone]

Good point. Can also be the result of fitting balloon grips or poorly shaped levers, including some of the dog-leg levers on the market, which hit the grip very quickly.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

There are two other ways of obtaining more movement in the depression of the clutch that many people overlook:

If the crankcase cover lever is lifted from it's splines & rotated ACW (toward the rear) to a more acute angle, then more angular rotation is obtained. This may contradict what manuals may advise for the lever positioning, but it works. (Think of a piston near TDC & how many degrees are rotated for very little linear movement & you might get why it works)

Similarly, if the crankcase cover lever is cut & welded shorter, more angular movement will be obtained. This was an absolute must when nine plate clutches were utilised.

[Storkfoot]

I had to open up the casing on my TS1 today to change the gearing. It occurred to me to also check the clutch lever mechanism as, in my experience, on clutches with hard springs there’s a lot from force on the lever and plunger.

It might be hard to see in this photograph but the bottom ones are what I took out. In comparison with the new ones above, there is a significant amount of wear.



Just thought I’d mention this anyway as it all helps in having a good, smooth, operational clutch.

[Hat]

Good call. Wear items should be checked regularly

[Fast n Furious]

Add a decent quality nylon lined clutch cable and make sure the clutch lever pivot pin, pivot hole and housing holes are not worn and the difference will be significant.