GP150 lockdown project

[Storkfoot]

Overall, the dry build has gone okay but I am struggling to get the legshields to perfectly match the profile of the mudguard. I am reluctant to get the legshields panel beaten as I suspect the welds may break. So, at the moment, I am just scratching my head

[coaster]

Its difficult to see from that photo but it looks like 1/4" gap? I would be tempted to apply a little filler to the bottom of the mudguard flange and then shape it to match the curve of the leggies. Use an easy sand filler, shape with 80 grit and smooth out with 120, 240 then 600 wet dry with. Or just ask the panne;l beater what he thinks, he might be able to reshap the mudguard and or the leggies.

[Storkfoot]

It wasn’t anywhere near that big a gap and it was only in two or three areas. A good night’s sleep and an hour fettling this morning, largely by compressing the bolt holes by using penny washers, nuts and bolts and it is good to go. Not absolutely perfect but it’s pretty good.

There’ll be enough filler on these panels as it is

[coaster]

There’ll be enough filler on these panels as it is

Good to hear, Im on my 3rd 5ltr tin of filler on my project atm

[Storkfoot]

Whilst the bodywork is with the painter, I have had a few hours to spend on the engine. It’s a complete rebuild of my old GT186 engine which has been tweaked, only a bit, by Scotty at DSC. As I hope to use this engine on a lengthy trip in Europe next year, I am also treating it to a new ignition and clutch.

[dickie]

Don't newly built motors look lovely? I think it's a shame that we have to put them on the road.

Is it an optical illusion or is there a kink just next to the front sprocket?

[Storkfoot]

Don't newly built motors look lovely? I think it's a shame that we have to put them on the road.

Is it an optical illusion or is there a kink just next to the front sprocket?

I had two engine casings vapour blasted a few months back. This is one of them. I have never done it before, just used gunk and elbow grease in the past. You are right and, after 6 months on the road, it’ll look as it did before. But, at least it’ll have been ridden

The chain does have a kink in it in that picture but it is not under tension

Just put the piston on after cleaning up the two 4mm packing plates.

[Storkfoot]

I despair at the quality of some of the head and cylinder base gaskets available from reputable dealers. Some patently will neither fit small or large block casings. Anyway, after a few false alarms, I managed to get the top end sorted. I’ll now do a leak down test.

[Storkfoot]

I wasn’t happy with the gaskets so stripped the top end and replaced them. The old cylinder cowling was never a great fit on this barrel as it is a GT barrel running a long 115mm conrod. It was also starting to fall apart. I decided to go down the fibreglass route with a stainless steel spacer.



The static AC VAPE ignition was easy to set up at 17 degrees although I’ll need to check this with the strobe. I do like the way that you can alter the position of the stator without taking the flywheel boss off.

I have also gone for the Chiselspeed easy pull clutch conversion on a Uni sidecasing.

[Storkfoot]

I got the frame back from the painter so have made a start on building it up. Stand next, then engine in and then forks.

[Knowledge]

It is looking lush already Paul. Keep the photos coming as you progress

[Storkfoot]

It is looking lush already Paul. Keep the photos coming as you progress

Thank you. The painter needs to work near biblical miracles on those leggies and sidepanels, Martin

But, I love to reconstitute old ratty Italian stuff rather than just spend money.

[Storkfoot]

[Storkfoot]

Most of the day was spent adjusting the tank but, by the end of the day, the engine was in too.

One setback is the stand. It is an aftermarket stand that I bought years ago. I remembered that there was an issue with it but I thought it was just the lugs needed straightening in the vice. I transpires it wasn’t just that, it also needs the part that attaches to the spring moving down about 5mm as the spring is not under tension when you are riding

[Toddy]

That seat doesn’t look very comfy Paul looking good so far will you be able to get the stand sorted ?

[Storkfoot]

That seat doesn’t look very comfy Paul looking good so far will you be able to get the stand sorted ?

I do have a cover, mate. The stand, well the choice is get an original and do it up, or take the angle grinder and welder to this one. I’ll think on it

[coaster]

Thats looking sweet matey

[Storkfoot]

Thats looking sweet matey

Thanks, Col

[Storkfoot]

As regards the stand, I ground off the lug and got it welded back on further down. Unfortunately, and I didn’t spot it at the time, the lug was welded on in the wrong plane. This meant that the spring pinged off.



At this point, I decided to buy a replacement. I actually bought two, a shiney new one and an original one. As you can probably just make out, the shiney new one is far from an exact copy of the original.



Having tried to get the spring on the shiney new one and the original, I suspect that it will be the original that is fitted in the end. Not really a surprise, I suppose

[dickie]

Remade stands are a nightmare. I put an Indian GP one from SR on my LI and that's spot on. The bike I'm currently building came with one of the MB stainless ones and is also excellent. Other than that I've had nothing but problems with them and gone through the same process as you; just keep trying until something is close and fettle until it's right.