Series 2 With Jet engine

[Storkfoot]

Further to previous post, leak down test was good, virtually rock steady over many hours



Now moved on to sorting out the wiring and cabling before fitting the ignition and finally putting the engine in the frame. This picture is just to show my attempts at hiding the indicator wiring under the leg shield beading.

[coaster]

That looks tidy Paul, you shouls see the birds nest of wires under my horncasting

[Storkfoot]

That looks tidy Paul, you shouls see the birds nest of wires under my horncasting

I have seen it, mate. Bird’s nest in the headset and spider’s web under the panels if I remember right.

Hopefully, I should be able to get rid of a fair few of those wires. It’s an MB loom that has wires for front brake light and fuel sensor. Neither of them are needed.

[Storkfoot]

[dickie]

Look like they're supposed to be there. I was worried you'd have them sticking out the horncast on stalks, but that looks way better.

[Solid Air]

They're VERY nice!!

[Storkfoot]

Thanks. Resin copies of original housings. As they are resin and not metal the indicators need to be earthed to the leg shields. I can only guess that the original wiring was hidden under the beading like I have done. The T5 “buzzer” is only dead small so is hidden in the headset.

Now need to fit the ignition and then mount the engine.

[Scooterslag]

Very neat, I do like what you've done , Paul

[hullygully]

+1

[Rich Oswald]

Very neat, I do like what you've done , Paul

VERY NICE!

Rich'

[Storkfoot]

I now have operational indicators, having re routed cables and ditched, for now, the buzzers.

I am setting up a warning light and need to slow the indicators down a bit. I have higher wattage festoon bulbs on order but I suspect I shall need to look into the world of resistors to make them slow down to a legal rate.

Top tip - only take the back off a switch if you really, really need to. Springs will make a bid for freedom with very little encouragement. Amazingly, I managed to catch it and rebuild it

[Storkfoot]

Swapping the bulbs out to 12v 21w, from 12v 15w has made no real difference to the blink rate. It is about 140 per minute. Legally, it needs to be within the range 60-120. If anyone has any ideas about the use of resistors to slow them down, please let me know.

Other than that, I have had to change the engine bar to the Casa Performance offset set up and change shocks from 305mm length to 310mm. I needed to do this to give the Fresco more clearance both from the frame and the road.

[dickie]

So you need to slow it by about half. Which means the indicators need to pull about twice as much load or power.

Starting at 21W, you are pulling about 42W as front and back are working together. 42W at 12V is about 3.5A. So, you need to wire a resistor in parallel with each side which pulls something like 30W or 2.5A.

12V, 2.5A is about 5Ohms.

But you need to make sure that the resistor isn't just going to burn out. Not a massive issue with indicators as they aren't running permanently, but still best to make sure.

So 5Ohms, say 50W resistor. One for each side should do. 50W doesn't mean it uses 50W, it just means that's how much constant power it can handle without burning out.

And yes, I know my maths is very approximate, but that's fine for this sort of stuff.

[dickie]

This should do you

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/50-100W-0-1-1K-Ohm-5-Watt-Shell-Power-Aluminum-Housed-Case-Wirewound-Resistor-/313723263172?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p4429486.m46890.l6249&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[dickie]

Sorry, I think I've misunderstood. Do you only have one indicator on each side?

If so, then 10 Ohms is better. Plus you could halve the power to say 20W. But 50W is OK too, just a bit more reliable in the long term.

[Storkfoot]

Yes, only one indicator each side. They are legal because they stick out so far and are visible from both sides.

I also understand that I can use this to moderate the number of flashes per minute:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272345319953 ... media=COPY

It doesn’t have a 4th pin but I have been told that I can power the warning light by connecting it to both indicators, presumably on the basis that both are earthed anyway.

[dickie]

Yes, that might be easier. Certainly easier to adjust as doing it my way would mean ordering and soldering in new resistors if you wanted to adjust the speed.

If you connect both indicators to the warning light, they'll both flash like hazard warning lights when you try to indicate. So put a diode in series between each one and the warning light, then they'll be fine.

[Storkfoot]

Yes, that might be easier. Certainly easier to adjust as doing it my way would mean ordering and soldering in new resistors if you wanted to adjust the speed.

If you connect both indicators to the warning light, they'll both flash like hazard warning lights when you try to indicate. So put a diode in series between each one and the warning light, then they'll be fine.

Thanks very much, Dickie. I have ordered the Puretek flasher unit and also asked them if they do a 4 pin version with one pin linking to a warning light. They haven’t replied as yet.

Hopefully, it’ll work at reducing the blink rate if nothing else.

[Storkfoot]

I haven’t had a reply from Puretek but their 3 pin adjustable flasher has worked. My indicators now blink at around 75 per minute which is fine.

[dickie]

Happy days.

Are you bothered about a warning lamp or do you think you'll have enough sight of the indicators themselves?