by Adam_Winstone » Mon Jan 12, 2015 7:35 pm
^... yep, whether the crank is shimmed/aligned at the bottom end is the key issue. As Sticky's states, providing your conrod is aligned at the big end then you don't need small end shims.
The bearing alignment is normally not an issue, if the rod's aligned, but the wrong combination of floating rod moving to one side and narrow small end (or wide gap between piston bosses) moving to the other side can mean that the ends of the needle rollers run in the small end eye. This can quickly result in the bearing failing or the ends of the rollers wearing into the small end eye and/or the gudgeon pin.
Wide small end bearings simply ensure that the small end eye is always running on the bearing face, rather than the edges. Because the bearing fits through the rod's small end eye, it plays no part in rod alignment, which was the whole purpose of the shims. Address the alignment by fitting a shimmed big-end type crank and 'job done'. However, use a crank/rod/piston assembly (let's not forget that the original pistons for small end shims are machined accordingly and have a small square on the crown for identification), just leaving the shims out means that the alignment is not controlled small end or big end.
Everyone has an opinion as to whether you can just leave the shims out but successive editions of The Official Home Workshop Manual state that this must not be done, spending considerable text space on this specific topic. This is a debate that comes up regularly, then goes around and around until people get bored and ignore it.
Best of luck with it.
Adam