DC Conversion - The options?

[Noddabodder]

Folks I know this has been probably been done to death on here previously but I can only find an approximation on the indicators thread.

I want to run a Garmin Satnav this year and was wondering what I need to do in order to get enough juice out of a battery to do so?

I'm happy to convert to full DC and was considering a switch to the BGM DC ignition system. I know there are easier ways to achieve what I need but ideally I'd like a headlight upgrade also, maybe even run some pathfinders.

I've currently got a BGM stator running with an Indian flywheel and no battery tray.

[grandpa]

Hi Noddabodder,
Its all down to the laws of physics you cant take out more than you put in.An indian stator produces about 80watts max, others around 120 watts max. I believe. So headlight 35w +backlight 5w+festoon 5w so that's 45watts then there is speedo light and back brakelight. A battery will help, a 5amp/hr battery will give us 60watts .(watts = volts x amps )I cant imagine a Satnav uses much current,but pathfinders might.So wassell dc conversion with battery and don't leave the pathfinders on too long.
You can save a few watts using Led festoon bulb and some use leds in rear light.
Grandpa

[foremanbob]

If you are just wanting to run a sat nav then you could just fit a ModCharger or something like that...

If you are wanting to run Pathfinders you will need a battery

[Nelly]

I'm in the process of doing a DC conversion. I'm using the Wassel system, at least that's what I have bought, anything can happen once I get into playing about with these things. I also have a 5 pin rectifier off a Vespa PX disc that I chopped for bits a few years ago, I might try and see what's possible with that yet.
I'm going to use the Vespa battery tray that came off that bike, so I'll be fitting the 12V 9AH battery that fits into that. 9AH means the battery will supply 9 amps per hour, as long as it's receiving enough charge to keep it topped up.
I did a homebrew halogen conversion with a glass SX headlight (not original!) using an Osram Night breaker 60/55W lamp. The main headlight pulls 55W so 55/12=4.6A, therefore with the LED tail and side light the 9AH battery will be ample and still have a bit left over to comfortably supply the SIP speedo and phone charger, sat nav, whatever.
I would aim for at least a 7.5AH battery for this sort of set up.
If you then chuck another 55W for a spotlight as well, then this set up would become drained too quickly if you rode with the spotlight on constantly, it would really need a bigger or a second battery paralleled with the main battery, but this means more wiring and somewhere to find to fit more battery power.
No doubt somebody has done it, trialled it, and could advise as to how effective this would be.
As Foreman Bob says, if it's just a supply for the sat nav, the likes of a mod charger would be sufficient, but they are very limited as to what they can supply.

[MK Monty]

Folks I know this has been probably been done to death on here previously but I can only find an approximation on the indicators thread.

I want to run a Garmin Satnav this year and was wondering what I need to do in order to get enough juice out of a battery to do so?

I'm happy to convert to full DC and was considering a switch to the BGM DC ignition system. I know there are easier ways to achieve what I need but ideally I'd like a headlight upgrade also, maybe even run some pathfinders.

I've currently got a BGM stator running with an Indian flywheel and no battery tray.

I can not see why you don't just add the extra wire to your BGM stator. Thats all a BGM DC setup is. You have a quality stator so mark the position, remove it and snip the wire on the end of the lighting coils that is currently going to earth. add a new wire to the snipped wire and refit.
The instructions are on here Im sure if not they are on Scootererottica.
Its a simple mod and other than the extra wire the wassle regulator will cost around £30. A 4.2 amp Battery will fit under the panels or you can hide it in your toolbox. Various options for inside panel boxes designed for carrying tools or oil available.
Change all lamps to LED bar your headlight and it should run a pathfinder for around 1 hour or more. Mine is connected to full beam and you would not normally ride on full beam all the time anyway. Running everything DC is far better than trickle charging a battery. You are running basically the same as a car at 13.5V DC

[Donnie]

yep, forget the px regulator, it only trickle charges the battery and wont be suitable for your needs.

Definitely the wassels teh way to go and I did it with no regrets, running a jockys boxenstop front headlight (35watts is more than enough with this) and a front notek, again this is a 35watter and is great, dont forget you need a dc horn too. PS i used the px type battery too, quite large so many dont like this and believe they'll get the same out of the smaller 4.5ah ones, im not personally convinced but have nothing to compare too, I mounted the battery between the glovebox and fuel tank where the standard air filter would normally sit. if you need any piccies just shout

[Nelly]

The instructions are on here Im sure if not they are on Scootererottica.

Here's a guide to the conversion that you are describing.

http://z10.invisionfree.com/norwichscoo ... /t1257.htm

This is the conversion I've done to my stator plate too, ready for the DC conversion.

[coaster]

I have been running the Wassel full DC conversion for a few years now on both of my scooters both of which have twin spotlights. As already stated, an Indian stator will give around 80watts, the BGM delivers more power by having a few more windings on its coils and a thicker core but it is no where near 120watts, I'd be surprised if its anymore than about 90 tbh

That said, I also have an Osram Nightbreaker 55/60 front lamps (H4 conversion) and BGM LED rear lights, the spots are 35watt halogens and I have a 7.2 AmpH battery. In general use, the battery will retain it's charge unless I do a lot of slow riding in which case it needs to be topped up every month or so with a mains battery charger. As for the spots draining the battery too quickly, bare in mind that you can only legally wire them to operate with full beam and most of the time you are on full beam, you won't actually NEED the spots on. I have my spots operated via a relay wired into the full beam circuit and just flick them on when approaching bends on dark country roads. That way, the battery will last for several hours

Last week I chopped the spots on one of the scoots up and fitted an LED replacement (H6?) lamp to one and the LED out of a CREE type LED spot light into the other (they take 0.25 amps each). Unfortunately I haven't had a chance to ride in the dark (it's peeing down at the moment) but down the driveway it looks promising...I'll let you know how it goes

[Nelly]

yep, forget the px regulator, it only trickle charges the battery and wont be suitable for your needs.

Cheers Donnie, I haven't had a play with it yet, but thinking about how it's used on the Vespa that makes sense.
I plan to fit the battery tray somewhere under the panel behind the tank, I should manage it with a bit jiggery pokery. I can't utilise the space where yours is as I have a long range tank taking up that space. I'll know my plans better once I get some time to trial positions for the battery.
I'm going with a 9AH battery just as a belt and braces approach, I know using a battery that size I have plenty of power on tap even with the engine off, so I know the charging circuit won't have a hard life keeping it topped up.
If anybody is interested in seeing how I do this conversion I'll take a few pics and post them with details on a thread as and when I get time. Just let me know.

[coaster]

....I plan to fit the battery tray somewhere under the panel behind the tank, I should manage it with a bit jiggery pokery. I can't utilise the space where yours is as I have a long range tank taking up that space

Do bare in mind that you don't have to have just the one battery, you could utilise several smaller capacity (therefore smaller physically) batteries connected in parallel which will give you the desired capacity and. That would enable you to fit them wherever space is available. Early MGB GT's had 2 separate batteries for a similar reason.

Colin

[Nelly]

Cheers Colin,
That's exactly what I said in the post above, you can have a second battery paralleled to give more power.
I'm not going to be running spots on mine, so I'm quite happy using the 9AH battery. I have the battery tray, so I will make it fit, lol.

[Noddabodder]

Oh yeah, I'd forgotten about the mod charger. Looks like they're not for sale at the moment though, anyone know why?

So it seems that a DC conversion is easy enough except it's not great for running spots which seems to me to be the main reason for wanting DC power. Why is nothing easy?

[coaster]

Oh yeah, I'd forgotten about the mod charger. Looks like they're not for sale at the moment though, anyone know why?

So it seems that a DC conversion is easy enough except it's not great for running spots which seems to me to be the main reason for wanting DC power. Why is nothing easy?

No, it's fine for running spots providing you use a battery of around 7AmpH and use them sparingly. Without resorting to exotic motorcycle based ignition systems, it's the ONLY option for running spots (useful ones at any rate)

[Nelly]

DC is the best way to go for spotlights, and technically the only way to go if you want good constant power availability. You just need to fit enough battery power to supply your demand on the lighting load. As Coaster said, if you only run with the spot light occasionally, then you may get away with good power delivery with as little as a 7.5AH battery, but you ideally need to fit as big a battery as possible to match the load demand.
Edit.... You beat me to that one Colin, I need to type quicker, lol

[grandpa]

Cheers Colin,
That's exactly what I said in the post above, you can have a second battery paralleled to give more power.
I'm not going to be running spots on mine, so I'm quite happy using the 9AH battery. I have the battery tray, so I will make it fit, lol.

A 9 amp/hr battery will keep the lights on longer if you have to push your machine home in the dark
Grandpa

[Nelly]

This is very true Grandpa!
Hopefully it won't come to that.............

[Donnie]

If you have the room then a 9aH battery is the smallest I would ever fit. If not I would make the room

[Nelly]

Just checked tonight, the Vespa battery tray fits nicely behind the tank, just over the rear muguard. 9AH battery it is.

[Eden]

Wassel conversion is the best option, its very very easy to do and the cost is mininal.