drive side plate screw HELP

[steve chapman]

hi looking for some help , ive had to drill the so called high tensile allen screws out that hold the drive side plate on , which has only left a small part of the screw showing ,
has anyone got any ideas as to how i can get them out . or is there anyone that can do
such a job , or have i f****d my casing up thanks Steve

[dickie]

If you can drill into the screw, and it isn't seized in the thread, you will get it with an easy-out.

Otherwise take it to a machine shop who'll probably charge you a fiver.

You'll be ok as long as you don't try drilling it out with a hand drill.

[steve chapman]

thanks for your reply , the screws wont budge mate thats why i had to drill the heads

think i might have nackered it

[a-teamlambretta]

You could build up the remains of the screw with weld using a mig welder. Just do a bit at a time until you have enough to weld on a bolt or vice grips, the heat from the weld will also help to free the stud. I have used this method lots and should get you sorted

[petemaisey]

Where are you?
It should be an easy job with some sharp drills. Start small and work up to the largest drill you dare.
Often drilling through can free them off.

Pete

[steve chapman]

hi pete , i live in skegness , i used locktite when i built the engine and they are deffo stuck fast

[petemaisey]

I'm North Essex.
Use a small flame to melt the Loctite once you have the holes drilled. (Gas powered soldering iron is useful)

Pete

[lammydave]

always use an impact screwdriver to get them out

[911hillclimber]

Good suggestions, but if those all fail, a well equipped machine shop will spark erode the broken thread remains out of the hole and this accurately done will leave the thread sound in the case.
Many a Porsche cylinder head has been saved when exhaust studs have sheared off when removing the exhaust system.

Hope this helps if the more practical solutions do not work.

[monument7]

No need to Spark Erode a broken bolt this is only used when its a broken tap or something else you can't drill or mill. Waste of time and money

[gaz_powell]

Last bad one I had I was able to welded a bolt to the damaged hex head - 3 of the knacked when I opened the casing
Although this won't help -Personally Idont use the allen head type - I think the hex is too small. You need good tools to fit/remove them or else they will round. If I have to use or remove them I use a deep hex socket connected to an extension and ratchet or impact driver. Never try with an allen key.
I use a very weak locktite on them just to take up any slack in the thread (never had one come loose) and use the slotted screws again with the correct size bit and don't over tighten them.

Good luck - this can be one of the worse events on strip/rebuild

[Eden]

I used the allen head ones once a few years ago and never again as I had exactly the same problem. I managed to drill the center of the screws out to the full depth using gradually bigger drill bits until I could get a tap down the threads. I took fooking hours

[Scooterlam]

Can you rember which locktite you used.

[gaz_powell]

Yep i used them once...never again - only did as they were been pushed as better than standard...... " no more chewed heads etc ......
slotted for coppers from SR all the time

i use an unknown brand stud lock from toolstation.

Cant remember exactly what it is and i m away from home at minute but theres plenty out there i never use the heavy duty ones. I use the same on end plate studs - just a thin smear.

gaz

[Nelly]

Gary,
A tip Scotty told me was to only put a bit Loctite on the seat (counter sink) of the screw rather than the thread, that way the head gets locked and the thread stays safe.
On my latest build I've been using Loctite 243 medium strength and 270 high strength on differing applications. However, I recently found out 270 is ridiculously strong and should be used with caution!

[dscscotty]

Don't use lock-tite on these screws as nelly says I normally drop a little on the seat of the screw which holds it in the counter sunk hole. Never had an issue with this method. On several occasions I've got problem screws out by grinding of the head of the screw with a carbide cutter on a die grinder. The plate can be removed which leaves a substantial amount of the screw showing a good quality penetrating oil can be squirted into the thread.. Then heat up the area around the casing/screw, usually mole grips can be attached to the protruding thread and turned. It's not pretty but I've have saved many casings this way.

Good Luck

Scotty-DSC

[ladsdad]

Hi all

The funny thing about this thread is all the replies are offering a possible useable solution... At work in this situation ( snapped fixing in a recessed position) if possible,as you have done, drill off the head so that you can remove the plate/ seal then, but only if you have a steady hand and can drill in a straight line( not as easy as it sounds..), try to drill out the fixing. Don't use easyouts unless they are really good quality/ expensive as a snapped tap is very expensive to remove... If you have a little of the bolt sticking out and have the room, like the man say's mig weld a nut to the end, this combined with the heat will do the job along with a bit of lube of some sort.

.. The best thing to do in this situation is not to be in it in the first place... As has been said before if your screws are slotted use a impact driver( after heating slightly) & lube.... If your screws are Allen key firstly make sure the key is the correct size & not worn and again heat & lube... a Allen key socket is best in this situation as you have more control.. Also if you put the screws in there in the first place, buy decent screws( look for a number stamped on the head ideally around10.9 but no less that 8) the higher the number the higher the tensile strength..only use locktite very sparingly & don't go mad tightening them up... I think the figure is supposed to be about 3.5 ftlb but just nipped up ( when using locktite) will do & then you won't warp the seal retainer plate..The grade I use is studlock which is really o.t.t but its all about how much you use, a tiny drop will do the job in most cases.

Mark

[steve chapman]

thanks for all your replys , i think the problem is as one or two of you have said, i maybe used either
to much loctite or maybee the wrong type but its about five or six years ago so not sure , i have decided
to get a new casing so i can get it back on the road and sort it at a later date and then either build another
engine or sell it on , regards Steve

[Chadley]

I use Loctite 222 on these fasteners:
http://www.loctite.co.uk/loctite-4087.htm?nodeid=8802623422465