My first restoration: TV175 Ser 3

[911hillclimber]

Bang on time, Redditch Shot Blasting have finished my TV in white and I'm collecting all the parts today.

The build table is done and on wheels so the project can start again.
I've been scraping and cleaning or buying new parts for the last 3 weeks, so things will be busy again.

Just thinking generally about re-assembly of the chassis.

My plan is to fit:

Stand
rear mudguard
tank/tool box
rear light
seat
front hub assy together
prep forks and fit new bearings, fit to frame and adjust.
engine in, rear spring/damper
fit front hub
lower headstock casting (should have some chroming back next week)
all cables, all fuel line parts inc carb
loom
Speedo and lamp, locks
get tyres and fit
start engine, adjust cables, snag any issues that may arise (fuel leaks etc)

dryfit repaired shields/boards and fit panel rubbers to get fit right.
paint all sheet metal to match powder paint.
fit and fit floor runners and all badges.

arrange MoT and get it registered

Are there any tricks to play along the way?
I'm expecting only a few issues...

[johnnyXS]

great thread ! I've enjoyed reading it all this morning ....
We are from the same era you and I, 67/68 great times that left an enduring impression on me.

It has been interesting to see that you have encountered all the same problems that I did last year with my imported 64 Lis150 special, particularly poorly made and ill fitting replacement parts I now have a box of expensive bits that are about as useful as a chocolate kettle ! I have to say it really does pay to buy locally where you can see what you are buying and its easier to return if you need to.

I also had a helluva problem getting a spark out of my 6v 6 xcoil stator . After buying 2x spare stators and changing the condensor 3x times I found that the three new Italian made condensors that had been sent to me by a local supplier all tested faulty ! What are the odds of that !? I now keep a fully tested spare stator with new loom ,points and condensor for testing and replacement if needed.

After reading MB Dev recommendations I set my advance to 19 degrees and have to say my scoot starts 1st or second kick every time hot or cold and pulls really well without any hesitation . When it gets warmer I intend experimenting a bit with the advance and jetting . It should make an interesting project.

I found MB Developments technical articles very helpful and if you have the patience to wade through it all there is loads of useful info on there, ditto Cambridge Lambretta site and of course on this site
How about swopping coil ,stator parts and regulator from Vespa PX200 etc to upgrade the lammy system cheaply and converting your existing 6v stator to 12v operation
"Easy 12v Lighting" http://www.ilambretta.co.uk/12v.html

[911hillclimber]

Thanks for the kind words, I enjoy doing the threads (on various racing and classic car) forums, and I find you get as much from them as you put in, esp when you are a novice to the subject, if not the 'engineering'.

Just got back from spending a lot of money at the powder painters, but it looks great, a nice calm white.

They didn't do the tank as they think there is a chance of a (rust) pin hole by the tap threaded bush and there has been an Italian repair by soldering a small something just where one tank strap would rest, possibly a fix for a corroded spot?
I'll dig a bit deeper and decide to braze or buy new.
I wondered why I only had one tank strap in the box, possibly that is how it was when I got it, removed for the 'repair' and not re-fitted.

Pity, as it was one of the first pieces to re-fit. Might wet spray with a rattle-can rather than go all the way back to Redditch.

I too will 'prepare' a spare set-up stator as I have the one that came with the flywheel for a rainy day or roadside rescue..

I think I will enjoy this stage far more than the engine.

[johnnyXS]

ah thats a pity about the tank !
They should have rung and asked you . What they've got no phone !?

Brazing is a great repairing technique for thin panels especially Silver solder . You can apply just the right amount of heat where you want it, to reduce distortion or creating new holes and you don't have to use a helmet .
Another equally effective repair is wiping lead if you can find some ! They used it a lot on high end pre 60's cars like Jaguars .

My tank was falling off too when it arrived, although the second strap was still attached . It had a wonderful Heath Robinson repair which must have taken a former Italian owner ages to do. I have replaced it with a new strap but I'm tempted to put it back on if I don't restore the scoot

[911hillclimber]

Same mechanic in Rome has worked on my TV too....

Wanted to get the frame up off the floor and onto my build table asap.
Followed Sticky's advice and fitted the stand with large thick plates behind the stand channel. although mine was not bent after all the years, thought it best. He's never been wrong yet.

Started to fathom-out where all the bits go and realising what parts I'm STILL missing or need to find to fit the tool box, air box etc.

Will be brazing the holes, the pin prick is still very small despite a good attack with a braddle. I think if I wet paint the tank it is sure to look odd with the rest due to the coarse surface finish of the grit blast. Silver solder I think is lower melting point than the powder bake oven.
I'm no stranger to lead-loading due to the old cars I've 'touched' over the years. Will be needed on my side panels for sure.


Anyone know the magnetic drain thread size please? my nice new one will not go into the side cover...

[N19]

The frame looks great, I used Redditch shotblasting also. I am going next week to pick up forks and a few other bits. Good luck with the rebuild

[911hillclimber]

Thanks, their prices are a bit high but the attention to detail and attitude is great, so worth it.
I'll have to wait for 'Old English White' to come round again for the tank. RAL 1013

The white makes all the bits I have cleaned etc all look a bit sub-standard, but it will all weather-in I hope.
This re-build is not to make it look brand new.

[johnnyXS]

you might find this Beedspeed table useful for the fixing specs https://beedspeed.com/html-pages/LamVespaScrewSizeGuide.htm
Paintwork on the frame is excellent.

[911hillclimber]

Thank for that.
Leeds Lambretta sell a complete stainless fastener set for the whole scooter in stainless for £20, I think I'll get the set.
Tarnished or rusting fasteners are naff, why spoil the boat for a half penny of tar.

I think the £2000 budget is under threat...

[Dimitrios_231]

Anyone know the magnetic drain thread size please? my nice new one will not go into the side cover...

16mm x 1.5mm pitch,I cleaned one yesterday

[rossclark]

If you had your casing blasted that can sometimes make the threads a bit sticky. Running a tap through will help.

[911hillclimber]

Thanks both, it was the pitch I wasn't sure of.
Case was badly blasted to oblivion...
Just need to find a tap or a bolt of that size now.

[911hillclimber]

Thought I would press-on with the forks while I wait for the stainless fastener kit to arrive.

Bearing rings dropped into place nicely with a light tap of the hammer, but without the chrome top ring I can't go further. I hope for good news from Castle Chrome on Monday.

So to the forks.
Had all the new bushes to hand, the links cleaned up well enough not to have them re-plated.

Got the upper small rubbers in place and did battle with the spring compression tool.

This tool came cheaply off ebb@y a few years ago and although they sort of fit all of them have needed a lot of bending and freeing-up to work correctly, the spring compressor was no exception.

I should have looked closer so a bit of advice, check your Chinese/Indian tools fit/work before you assemble the parts....

Having squeezed all the parts in with lots of grease the links are at rest against the large rubber stops unevenly, about 3mm difference at the wheel axle. Everything was even height during the assembly until fitting the bump stops. Not sure if I should trim the one to allow the links to come to rest 'level' with each other. I can see this being a pain putting the front wheel back on or after a puncture.

any words of wisdom please?

Graham.

[HxPaul]

Check that you haven't fit one small buffer and one large buffer.If you've bought a full set of new buffers,they come with two small and two large.

[911hillclimber]

Indeed, they are 2 sizes, but both matched.
But will check again!

[rossclark]

Also worth if you're taking them out again that they're actually a pair and even when on the bench. Then check the depths of your stops inside the forks.

[911hillclimber]

Stripped everything out of the forks ( ) and measured the depth of the upper seats, all even.
Spring and rod seating lengths the same.
Big rubber bushes both the same though one is a bit softer then the other...( )
Both links straight, but the area that bears onto the buffer on the one link is a different height to the other, about 1mm. With the lever ratio of the link pivots this will readily give this difference I have with the forks off the ground, but will sit evenly when on the ground and the wheel on. Coupled with the one rubber being softer (read that this is typical of repro parts) the one link can compress to a different depth to the other.

So, all back together now.

Disc brake hub assy today while it is pouring, all day in the den.

[911hillclimber]

After an hour of fettling I managed to get the disc to slide freely on the 3 pins, I can remember the 'fun' I had trying to get the front to stop on my 225 TV in 67 with the very same problem. Poor design, but working now.
I elected to remove the anti-rattle ring from the disc as per Stickys book.

I'm not sure where to position the disc lever circlip. This is shown in the pic attached and follows Stickys book. Do you think this is right with the open ends in the groove?

The powder paint was thick around the speedo drive M16 thread so made a 'thread cleaner' from the old sump plug which worked a treat. Wouldn't clean the thread in the crank case though...

With that done, I popped the engine in which makes me feel better and also clears the crowded garage a bit more.
Parts are slowly disappearing!

Looks like my parts for chroming have disappeared too, but that I hope will be sorted tomorrow.

[pirate pete]

Regarding the circlip location in the groove make sure it seats correctly . I didn't trust mine so I fitted 2 m5 bolts to stabilise it. It seems the casting on my RS was not great and when activating the brake the circlip was flexing. Scary and also gave excess brake lever travel. The brake works very well as a result. The brake unfortunately NOT a plug and play.

[911hillclimber]

The ring grove looks like it was machined today!
Just feels better in my mind for the main C of the ring to be in the grove..