My first restoration: TV175 Ser 3

[Dimitrios_231]

I recommended earlier the Tutto exhaust,
there was a reason

[911hillclimber]

Yes, take your point, couldn't find one but the £180 ticket + everything made it expensive.

Just as well I can cut and weld; what do people do otherwise, send it back and get what back?
Cannot email CASA, no email address offered, so complained to the supplier I used.

It is the principle here, I hate paying good money for poor goods!

I hope the supplier will send it on to CASA, it is in their interest to know.

[911hillclimber]

Managed to do some thing positive today, Halfords exhaust clamp fitted, ugly but functional. At least it is hidden.

Secondly, after a fight with Nitromors and my bodywork, the metallic blue paint surrendered quickly, that bloody primer would resist an angle grinder...

Lots if hair-line rust on the surface, so surrendered to days of P40 production paper and rust in the corners and the body is off to Envirostrip on Monday for a good dip in those chemicals, back a week later.
Still not sure I have the lungs to paint the metal myself (cellulose).

Had a simple colour plan in mind, but totally white has a certain appeal.

[911hillclimber]

After a few glitches at my end the tyres and tubes arrived from SIP. I chose the SAVA tyres because they were the smallest white wall I could find, the Continentals seem to have walls that touch the road upright.
They installed almost too easily..the front rim is the best of the 3 original rims that came with the TV and after a bit of fiddling all bolt up to the hubs without having to scrape off any paint.

The stainless wheel rim/hub nut kit of course is incorrect.

4 dome nuts and the rest nylocs, unmatched plain washers, one thin all others thick form. Why?

This then bought the TV to a critical stage, getting it off the table to the garage floor single handed. Used my engine hoist and misjudged the balance point, but down to the ground without mishap or a visit to A&E.

Sat on it for the first time in 15 years and all those 1967 feelings came back. another few months and should be ready to register.

In '68 I had the Lambretta Official workshop manual, the one with the killer GT Series 3 on the front.
I always wanted this TV to be like that scooter, and I feel I'm well on the way now.
A school mate in '66 had an older brother into Lambrettas and he had one exactly like that pictured, I remember it so well.

Not sure about the chunky looking front dampers, bought them trying to avoid the cost of the thinner TV dampers. I suppose I could fit the rubber gaiters on them, but would like the real sized ones now.

Panels back next Monday I hope.

[nickw]

Looking good.

[Revvers]

Great thread. Excellent scooter looking really good

[DaveTomo]

"Not sure about the chunky looking front dampers, bought them trying to avoid the cost of the thinner TV dampers. I suppose I could fit the rubber gaiters on them, but would like the real sized ones now."
With the thicker front dampers you may struggle to get the gaiters on,when I've done it before they look stretched (the gaiters) and to my mind didn't look right.Scootopia have bought out new front dampers to the original spec for £30 http://www.scootopia.co.uk/product/7396 ... damper-set if they're anything like their other stuff , should be good quality.Mate of mine has recently fitted gaiters on his TV, the tip he was given was to use clear silicon at the top the keep them from moving.IE keep the gaiter in position at the top of the damper, something on my "to do" list, as I use a zip tie
I do enjoy a rebuild thread yours is coming on nicely, keep up the good work & the updates

[911hillclimber]

Thank you for the comments, all helps keeping me on track.

Those dampers look nice, and must be the correct slim diameter, another chip off the card coming on.
Hope to sell the new Escorts for a few shillings!

The picture is the one that inspires, Sticks book has a similar one, but the books looks like a ridden scooter.

Got to have a fly screen, but I like the registration 'plate' on the leg shield, adds a period touch to the TV

Will soon be ready to try to start it, that will test my patience....

[911hillclimber]

Keeping this thread up to date, got it going!

Needs a bit of tweeking to get it to start well and cleanly, but the bottom line is it ran for 20 secs when I think the fuel stopped it.
Blipped on the throttle a treat and sounded just great!

My first Lambretta start since 1968.

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Welcome back.

[911hillclimber]

Well, after all that excitement it is the classic 3 steps forwards, maybe 2 or 3 steps back.

I have a small patch of what I think is 2 stroke oil coming off the mag tin housing lower screw. 50mm dia over the last 24 hours.
It is not petrol residue and the garage does not smell of petrol. At first I thought the patch was gearbox oil, but the case cover is dry.

So, how can this be?

I changed all the crank seals and surely the only way out is for there to be a pool of oil in the bottom of the crank chamber and it coming along the crank and past the mag housing seal and escaping, but this seems silly as there would need to be about 1/2 a litre of the stuff to get to the crank 'shaft' bearing and the seal. Plus most would then be coming out of the exhaust port?

Kicked it over this afternoon and it started 3rd kick and ran for the usual 20 secs before dying, all the time on choke. I'm sure the engine runs on the float chamber fuel quantity the supply is so weak (new Indian fuel tap) it cannot keep up though the fuel in the pipe is still about 50mm up from the banjo with air from that to the tap!

Time to do as Stickys book, check flow from tank via the tap, if good, check the flow via the banjo filter and float needle.
Out with the new jets and poke all the drillings again just in case there is a blockage.

Air-line the lot and re- install and try again.

Need to remove the cowl and the flywheel to see if I can see where the oil is coming from..

Chris:
Thank you for the welcome back, just now not sure I want to be here!

On a more positive note, got my panels back all stripped and etch primed. Side panels are very repairable, the top edge beading I was worried about is sound, the bottom edges are 'lace-like' so some welding to be done. Quite a complicated run of curves there and then the returned lower edge too.
Leg shields are a pitted but solid where the mud guard was bolted and just one corner to be welded but few dents.
Rear floor panels are a bit battered along the sides but sound.

Getting there, just a few irritations!

[grandpa]

changed all the crank seals and surely the only way out is for there to be a pool of oil in the bottom of the crank chamber and it coming along the crank and past the mag housing seal and escaping, but this seems silly as there would need to be about 1/2 a litre of the stuff to get to the crank 'shaft' bearing and the seal. Plus most would then be coming out of the exhaust port?

Hi Hillclimber,
You would not need a pool of oil in the crankcase, remember the crankcase is pressurised as the piston descends it forces fuel into the crankcase and up the transfer ports into the area above piston to be compressed.Did you do an air leak test after you assembled the engine.Hopefully the seals may bed in when you get it running.
Grandpa

[911hillclimber]

Take your point.
When I noticed the drop of oil hanging off the bottom screw head I cleaned it off.
It sat still, no starting for 24 hours and the oil was there.

I've certainly know gearbox seals on cars settle-in and almost seal tight, but by and large they work from the start. These seals are under primary crankcase pressure, but any 'escape' would be petrol and oil during running?

Bit dis heartened, but running the race car tomorrow for a practice day, so could feel better after that nerve wracking day!

I tried so hard to have all new parts and the running surfaces right. At least you can change the mag side seal without removing the housing.

[HxPaul]

If I understand your last comment correctly,it isn't possible to remove either of the mag seals without removing the mag housing.

[911hillclimber]

You are right Paul!

Just looked at Sticky book, both go in from the crank side.
Wishfull thinking on my part.

Still cannot imagine this amount of oil coming through.
Until I take it apart I cannot be sure if it is the bear seals or the housing gasket.
I used a new gasket and a smear of gasket goo, maybe a good dollop would have been wiser.

[HxPaul]

Have you checked the mag housing gasket ? If it is leaking the oil could be running down the mag and into the flywheel cowl and dripping off the cowl bolt.

[911hillclimber]

Indeed, could be the most likely suspect!

[coaster]

Are you sure it isn't a leak from the fuel tap dripping down? worth checking to be sure, the petrol would evaporate leaving the oil residue.

[911hillclimber]

I'm open to all ideas!
Last thing I want to do is strip the thing.
As I type this I can smell petrol on my fingers.
Just checked the screw head and 6 hours after drying it is wet, but the 'oil' sure has some petrol in it.

On sunday I'll try to be methodical and track it down from the outside in.
There is a small (and I mean small) whetting of the base of the carb, but it would have a LONG way to travel to get to the screw head?

Carb's coming off anyway, so might get a better idea of the track of the leak.
ie, remove carb, clean screw head and see if drips re-appear.
Be great if it is just the carb weeping, but doubt it.

[Marty ULC]

This is one of the best threads on here. Just spent the last couple of days reading it. Plenty of us will appreciate the frustrations involved in rebuilding a lambretta and it's good to read other people's recommendations, tips and tricks.
Good luck with it.