My first restoration: TV175 Ser 3

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Put some paper under the fuel tap.
Take it easy in that race car !

[grandpa]

I'm open to all ideas!


Carb's coming off anyway, so might get a better idea of the track of the leak.
ie, remove carb, clean screw head and see if drips re-appear.
Be great if it is just the carb weeping, but doubt it.

Hi Hillclimber,
if the carb is coming off it might be worth doing a leak test with a cycle tube and blocking up exhaust and see if it holds air in the innertube.and spray around with soapy water.
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=140&p=524&hilit=leak+test#p524
Good luck.... you have had over 6000 views ..we know you can fix this
Grandpa

[911hillclimber]

Thanks for all the kind words and real tips, it all helps to keep the 'pekker up' so to speak..

I'm ALWAYS careful in the race car, that's why I'm slow. The demon tweeks to the gear change worked, and the day went well.

Cleaned the cars, cleaned the garage, stared with a torch at the pesky TV.

The mag housing gasket is dry as a bone. Tick.
The base of the tank where the tap is fitted with the nut is dry as a bone. Tick.
There is fuel coming from the tap/carb banjo either from the gasket or the banjo screw head.
That drip is exactly above the mag cowl where it tucks inside the head cowl and I can now see the near transparent run right along the mag cowl edge and under gravity and some capillary action straight down to the cowl bottom screw! TICK. Engine ok, carb leaking!

Just got a permission to stay in the garage while the wife fettles the garden (!) so off with the carb.

I used a rebuild kit and the banjo gasket was anything but compliant. Anyone used an O ring for this seal?

At this time I'll check the tap flow and blow all the jets out and back onto the TV after the leak test described by Grandad.

Feel a lot better now.

[911hillclimber]

Quick up-date:
Turned the fuel tap off and removed the fuel pipe off the banjo and got soaked in petrol...turned the connection round 180 deg so Off is indeed Off. This means the TV has been left with the fuel ON all this time. This may explain the size of the leak.

Took carb off and did the leak test of Grandad's. Hard to get a seal on the tube to the pump, but got some soapy water on the inlet manifold, the exhaust manifold too.

Nothing off the inlet side, a few bubbles from the U pipe flange/gasket. You need to be an X File to see up there, but nothing 'gross'.
Took the carb apart and all looks good, but poked wires down every hole and 80 psi blast down/up/across every hole. It's clean in there.

Replaced the fibre gaskets under the banjo screw head and checked the float movement and needle valve for freedom and all back together. Put the fuel pipe back onto the carb and re-connected everything.
Only had about 1 litre of fuel over from yesterday (the racer does 4 mpg..) so with a bit too much oil added poured that in. Fuel on, and no leaks after 2 mins.

Switch to ON choke on, big push on the kick start 3 time and it fired.
And ran, and ran, and ran. It seems a bit '4 stroking' to me so wound the tick over jet screw in to 1 turn out which seemed a bit 'smoother'. Turned the choke off about one min into the run. I wonder if the choke is fully 'off' '?

Good grief, these engines sure do vibrate!

So, BIG move forward, but...

There is a very engine speed related mechanical 'touching' noise from the kick start/gearbox side of the engine.

I have changed the clutch, the chain and the two guides and the pin that works with the start and runs up a ramp. Can't remember what it is called.
It is not a pleasant noise, so it seems all the engine cover has to come off and I hope I will see a polished high-spot.

I did not touch the gearbox and the internal parts not mentioned are all original.

Will investigate. Hate gearbox oil.

Thus, as with all classic things, 10 steps forward and a few back, but it runs and ticks over and has great throttle response! This little face does not sum it all up..

[grandpa]

Hi hillclimber
Great news ,
To remember what it was like in the sixties have a look on you tube ....look at life scooter commuter
grandpa {not grandad!)

[Tony Hart]

There is a very engine speed related mechanical 'touching' noise from the kick start/gearbox side of the engine.

I have changed the clutch, the chain and the two guides and the pin that works with the start and runs up a ramp. Can't remember what it is called.
It is not a pleasant noise, so it seems all the engine cover has to come off and I hope I will see a polished high-spot.

:

Just been in the garage investigating the same issue (along with numerous others). The 'chattering' started when I hadn't even been messing about with it. The stop plate on the kick start had bent down by about 1cm which meant the piston wasn't retracting fully and the teeth were slightly catching on first gear. Easy fix for once. Worth checking before opening the crank case.

Tony

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Crankcase cover has to come off. Sprung loaded piston is not being retracted far enough and is rubbing on 1st gear.
A groove can wear in the reference pin and cause it to stick.

[911hillclimber]

Thought as much hence mentioning the pin that rides the ramp.

I took all the kick start piston and spring etc apart to clean it all, and only replaced the pin because Sticky said so...

I have installed a new rubber kick buffer into the case and the lever is hard up against it (ie not just touching the buffer face). Can this simply be that if the lever could come to rest a little higher (take some rubber off the buffer face) then it might all clear and be quiet?

Glad I'm not alone.

ps
Grandpa, sorry for the miss spelling!

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Pull the rubber out of the case and try first.

[911hillclimber]

Yes, good idea, killed me getting the bloody thing in!

[911hillclimber]

Ended up taking the side cover off to see what has been going on.
Irritating having to undo all the things I spent ages putting on, desperately trying not to mark the paint, but with it off the evidence was obvious.

The top of the clutch, the top steel disc has been rubbing on the kick start shaft in the 'classic' manner. The burring was about 10mm diameter and there was too much metal on the near adjacent magnetic sump plug.

So, positioned the mark so I could get my small angle grinder in there, greased/papered/protected everything in sight, a good smear of Vaseline where the grind steel would impinge and removed the bruise and about 1mm or less over a wide area in a very smooth surface, no sharp gouges.
Cleaned it all up, re-fitted the bumper and the kick starter after faffing about with the 1mm shim thickness of the shaft/circlip. Why are the shims you buy punched with a 22mm hole when the shaft is much smaller?
The shim can almost come over the clip when fitted. Anyhow, all together and stopped there so I'm in the right mood for gaskets and getting the silencer back on to my modified U pipe (because it was made wrong.. )

I expect this to be the end of the story down there.

If so, light check and speedo in, headlamp ring and earths in, front brake and speedo and it is down to the panels.

The end is getting nearer, I dread the registration 'dance', but it could go smoothly.

[Dimitrios_231]

Circlips with outer tags give better support.



It looks that you are very close now

[911hillclimber]

Where do you get those from? Just the ticket, BUT why not make the shim with the right inside dia??
Will have a search!
Thanks,
Graham.

[Dimitrios_231]

The majority of big dealers sell them,I had first seen them on MB's site.
You can find it anywhere,it has 20mm diameter.

[911hillclimber]

Thank you, found on Allstyles site.
Should see the back of this now.

[911hillclimber]

Lightening quick service from Allstyles, the parts arriving next day by the GPO.

Clip snapped-on in place and all back together.

Petrol on, choke on, second kick and it fired and ticked over!

Started to 4 stroke even with the choke off so suspect I have the choke 'on' even when turned off. Cable too tight.
Speedo to go in and the lights, front brake to connect up (reverse-pull) and speedo cable.

'Just' the body now; DIY paint in cellulose I think.

The noise has gone from the kick-start area, so thank you for the advice as ever.

[911hillclimber]

Got all the lights/speedo in and the headstock looks a treat, all just as I remember the Italian Style of this TV

However...

Moving the scooter round the garage in neutral, engine off etc I have notices a 'clunk-clunk' sound in time with the speed of the movement, ie about every rear wheel revolution. this was not there before I cleared the kick-start lever rubbing the clutch, and the rear brake is not yet connected up.
The rear hub nut is right up tight, about 80 lbft, the rear wheel is tight too.

So, something has changed. Before I take it apart any pointers??

[HxPaul]

When the scooter is pushed in neutral the clutch or chain dont move,just the layshaft,so it wont be the kickstart rubbing the clutch.It could be the sliding dog that is not completely going into neutral.

[Storkfoot]

Have you put the kick start lever back on the same spline it was before? Is it the kickstart piston catching on first gear?

[HxPaul]

Have you put the kick start lever back on the same spline it was before? Is it the kickstart piston catching on first gear?

The first gear wont move when pushed in neutral