My first restoration: TV175 Ser 3

[911hillclimber]

I thought for now 80 lbft would seat the cone etc tightly enough then a final torque when I have the force of the rear brake to use to resist the turning.

I have since jacked the rear wheel off the ground (stand legs on 4" wood blocks) so to freely rotate/spin the rear wheel.

While (spinning) the rear wheel by hand and slowly moving the kick start down (almost removing the free play before the plunger engages) 3" the clunking noise increases in frequency.

The box will find its own sweet spot in neutral (cables are connected and tight and the rubber cable covers cut short) so the box selector should be ok in neutral.

It didn't do this before I removed the cover and ground the shaft to clear the clutch and added the new circlip/shim on the outside.
The kick start itself coves to rest aided by the return spring up to the rubber buffer (new part).

This must be the toothed plunger/piston not returning and catching?

[johnnyXS]

speedo drive ?

[HxPaul]

When the back wheel is turned and the scooter is in neutral the gears dont move.

[911hillclimber]

I thought that yesterday as the day before I had connected the cable etc to the front hub.
It sounded that it was from the rear, and jacking the scoot up a few hours ago at the back, the noise was there rotating the rear wheel, front stationary.

If the plunger is staying out a little (I have fitted a new pin right from the first strip-down) then the tip of the plunger could be just catching something in there?

The pin 'slides' over the radius in the guide just where the plunger is extended but it is not the smoothest of slides, quite sticky action in fact. No burrs and tons of oil though.

Have to remove everything yet again and look for high spots. Fed-up buying new case gaskets!

[Marty ULC]

When the case is off spin the wheel and see if it still makes the noise. I'd wager it does which will rule out the kickstart. More likely to be the selector touching one of the gears which could indicate the shaft isn't lined up with the cogs, maybe due to the hub not being 100% tight or the rear bearing being on its way out (happened to me). I'm guessing here but might those symptoms also be caused by incorrect shimming or a gear being in back to front?

[garynonnah]

Hi fella ....seems your experiencing the same problem I had, just finished my 1st rebuild....argh
but all good now 360 miles on clock.
So it may be as simple as your kickstart is set too high, take it back one spline.
The travel is a bit more, but this stopped my noise from engine, the mechanism wasn't disengaging fully.
good luck

[911hillclimber]

Brilliant forum and even more brilliant members!!
Thank you for the tips; been doing lots of other domestic errands today, so scoot is where I left it.

however, I have just moved it at walking speed to utter silence. Not a clunk, just the tyres on the garage floor.
So, I took it for a 'walk' around the drive at walking pace and reverse, and all is silent.

I hate intermittent problems. No reason at all for things to have changed EXCEPT I have dis-connected the gear cables and the clutch cable and only replaced the clutch cable so far before the 'walk'.

I am fed-up of fiddling with those stupid trunnions Lambretta designed to clamp the cables, impossible to grip with an open spanner and tighten the grub screw, so making some new ones to my design for ease of use. The first one is on the clutch cable, still making the gear change ones.

Please remember I have not disturbed the gearbox at all, it is just as it left the factory in '64.

To eliminate a few things, I need to fully tighten the rear hub nut and check the kick start position.
As the start lever is now the lever returns gently to the rubber stop. To start the engine I can 'ratchet-up' the start so the first downwards push is with the piston on compression and the plunger engaged on the gear thus max turn-over in the first push down. If I move the start lever a spline then the lever tab will be about 20mm off the rubber stop presumably with the internal plunger pin off the ramp and in it's slot.
The lever is the original re-chromed.

[garynonnah]

As i said my prob was similar, but have to put up with extended play before engagement...as for trunnions i got some from MB
also a modified adjuster block gear/clutch cables, makes life bit easier.
Yea I understand all the fiddling about, been there...argh... nearly gave up a few times.
Now its just getting use to riding it after 30yrs...appy days

[911hillclimber]

Hope to be in the same position soonish..
Last had a ride in 1969 on my TV.
Not sure I'm ready to face the modern UK roads..

[Dimitrios_231]

A selection of original kickstart guides can help to decide which one fits better,
earlier ones differ to the later.


You can improve the kickstart mechanism by custom grinding the piston pin route,
this way it will 'bite' earlier

[911hillclimber]

Interesting, thank you.
The ramp (like the one in the top RH corner) is hardened so I've left alone but a smoother radius would not go amis. It is the original, but I changed the pin as the original was slightly worn (to the said ramp).
I've managed to get the new pin to ride the ramp on it's diameter rather than the edge of the flats, bit over tight but loctited.
Both are rock hard.
I suspect the pin is not running right back along the slot (plunger retracted position) so I'm hoping that the two surfaces will run-in over time.

It must be close to OK as the first push down of the starter is 'free-movement' as the pin comes to the rad and then the plunger is about to engage the gear.
I allow the starter to come back to the stop and then have the plunger/gear engaged to allow a good long first downwards travel to start it.

I will get the gear cables back on soon and adjust them and see if the clunking come back...

[Dimitrios_231]

Check out this one
http://www.lambrettaspares.com/spares/k ... p0355.html

I'm familiar with your kickstarting procedure,I also ride Lambrettas
I call it 'loading procedure'
it also helps if you lean the scooter left,this gives more kickstart travel.

Do you know if your side cover is modified for the later kickstart shafts?
If it is, it will sit lower,which means that it will also be the equivalent millimeters away from the teeth of 1st gear,
in this case you can enlarge (grind again) the pin travel at the shaft.

If it is not a kickstart problem,then you should check as mentioned earlier the clearance of gear selector at neutral.

[911hillclimber]

Ok, this has happened..

Finished making my demon cable trunnions and they work well I'm chuffed to say.
Re-fitted the cables and tightened them up with the box in neutral.

No noises when walking the TV round outside, forwards or reverse.
For now I'm going to let sleeping dogs lye, mess with the overly rich carb and move on to the long awaited bodywork.

These are the trunnions. Surely someone else has done this?

[johnnyXS]

they look good ,how did you make them? they look like friction between the lock nuts and the arms might prevent the trunions from pivoting freely ? did you place a washer between the two

[911hillclimber]

Really simple.
The issue I had with the originals was the difficulty to hold the trunnions up so the 2flats were exposed to the spanner and with your third hand get the Allen key in place with your forth hand doing it up tight, you hope...

I have a beautiful Drummond lathe, 1942 and with a length of 12mm a/f brass bar off eb@y turned the flats off down to 10 mm dia cross drilled for the cable and tapped M6 for a grub screw.
The hex head stops the trunnions dropping down too low as it sits on the lever tops, a 12mm spanner hold the trunnions and you can tighten the grub screw with ease.
The grub screws have the usual steel disc so the cables are protected.

[johnnyXS]

thats an Engineers solution ...nice one. ............Now if you could just knock up a few more.........

[Marty ULC]

thats an Engineers solution ...nice one. ............Now if you could just knock up a few more.........

I'd buy a couple of sets off you.
Would 11mm across the flats work? Be able to use the same shortened spanner I use for the adjusters that way.

[911hillclimber]

11mm would be better, a bit more 'elegant' but couldn't find any hex form brass at the time, so plumped for 12mm.

In the late 60's I remember messing with the trunnions, and it jarred again, hence the mini adventure of making the parts.
Not original, but there are times when it's time to improve things a little, I've done well to have resisted for so long!

Off for a few days away with the Sponsor, then full steam with the panels.
I like bodywork, but mine has a 1000 small dents, and moth-eaten side panels, so welding and some lead-loading.

Oddly, the paperboy has spotted the TV and it is the first Lambretta he has ever seen! (and the first kick start, and gear shifter on the handle bar...)
Seems that it is "very cool". Somehow it sounds good when his generation says it.
I was his age when I had my first scooter, a £5 Li 150 Series 2.

Makes you think where nearly 50 years has gone..

[Loneranger]

Great thread to follow, lots of good help on here isn't there?

May I add that trying to hold the rear hub by hard braking when tightening the hub nut is not a good idea, I have tried it.
The best solution to holding the rear hub is to modify an old wheel rim with a couple of steel arms welded on.
Fit this to the hub in place of the wheel and it will hold firm to the floor or something and tightening the hub is then a doddle.

Keep up the good work, and enjoy scootering.

Ady

[rossclark]

You don't have to weld to make a hub holder. You can bolt one together easily.