60 mm crank

[joe swoonara]

just had to buy a new 60 x110mm crank and whereas my previous crank fitted o.k and spun freely my new crank the big-end is just fouling the casing , only just , how have people got round this , any innovative ways of trenching the casing at home , or who offers this service ??

[MickYork]

Dremmel.....doesn't have to be pretty, just enough to stop it catching.

[rossclark]

Put some blue on the big end and relieve where it marks.

Bear in mind when you turn it to keep the small end fairly central as if in the barrel, that's where it will run.

[Fat Trucker]

I used a flap wheel on a drill and that did the job, remember to mask drive side bearing up well before hand though.

[hullygully]

would be best to blue or black felt tip the central area of your crankcase to see where the con rods touching
broady offers that service but £'s, but as previous helpfull comments state, see where it touches & carefully remove the material yourself

[Dimitrios_231]

This is what I did for a 60mm crank,
up and down.

[joe swoonara]

thanks ll for your help and comments looks like i`ll have a go with the dremmael and a flapwheel , thats a tidy job Dimitrios how did you do that??

[Dimitrios_231]

I start using carbide burr then changing to a diamond burr,then smooth with cross buff or rubber abrasive burrs.

[Captain Pugwash]

I have two different 60mm cranks to fit into two different engine builds, one needs no mods to the standard case but the other needs a small adjustment.

[bazza3004]

As stated above. Either a dremel or flap wheel in drill. Mine needed only a very small amount off rear of crank housing. I put 2 strips of masking tape in leaving a gap where big end runs and removed from this area.

[Dimitrios_231]

Did the same for a 62mm crank with machined con-rod from AF