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3 series ignition switch

Technical help for Series one, two and three Lambrettas. Models include the Li, Li Special, TV, SX, GP, Serveta and API/SIL models

3 series ignition switch

Postby gazza » Sun Jul 19, 2015 1:43 pm

hi does anyone have a wiring diagram for a 3 series ignition switch (non battery) I think I can work out most of it but there is an extra long brown wire connected to a shorter one from the switch does this replace the existing link from the horn ?
thanks
gazza
 
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Re: 3 series ignition switch

Postby 911hillclimber » Sun Jul 19, 2015 4:44 pm

Sticky's book is great for what you want. Can't copy it as that's illegal.

Lots of diagrams on Google!

'lambretta series 3 ignition wiring diagram'
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Re: 3 series ignition switch

Postby landybretta » Sun Jul 19, 2015 5:27 pm

Try scooterhelp.com
Available to download.

http://www.scooterhelp.com/electrics/pa ... tml#nobatt
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Re: 3 series ignition switch

Postby gazza » Mon Jul 20, 2015 10:37 am

thanks or the replies and sort of helps but I should of been more specific I am replacing the kill switch on my li 125 with a ignition switch from scootopia and I also have a 12 volt ac conversion. I'm struggling to find a diagram that suits e.g. the light switch has 6 cables controlling the lights plus one for the horn the other diagrams show just 3 controlling the hi/low beam? at present the purple is connected with the brown and main feed in the headlamp junction the yellow to the side light and the black feeds the speedo bulb and rear light do I discard these 2 from the light switch and replace with the yellow and black from the ignition switch ??? :?
thanks
gazza
 
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Re: 3 series ignition switch

Postby Meds » Mon Jul 20, 2015 1:27 pm

You have a few choices on how to wire it up and it depends entirely on what you want out of the rewire

1. Wire it as per a series 3 with a key switch.
This means that you will only use the high/low beam and horn on your current switch housing, everything else in the switch is redundant. So tie up & tape up the unused wires.

2. Only use the kill circuit on the key switch and keep everything else the same. This means that most of the key switch is unused

3. Multiple switched lighting circuit , this can lead to poor lighting as you are introducing extra switches in the circuits and it can be complicated.

If all you want is a keyed ignition then work out the kill circuit on the key switch ( usually green& pink wires on an Italian switch) wire it in as per The kill switch (green from the key switch to the green from the loom & pink bolted to the headset metal) and tie up and tape up all the unused wires from the key switch.
This has the advantage of allowing you to turn the lights on and off / high low beam with your thumb instead of the key.

This is my opinion only
Key switches fail and can cause funny faults in the lighting circuits, the less switches and connection on Lambretta electrics the better.
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Re: 3 series ignition switch

Postby gazza » Tue Jul 21, 2015 12:26 pm

cheers Meds that's very helpful got a good idea now what to do plus I'm going to try and wire up a couple of pathfinders via a battery and a relay and use the redundant switch to drive the relay :)
just got to work out how to take some of the internal rib on the headset away so the switch will fit :roll:
gazza
 
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Re: 3 series ignition switch

Postby gazza » Fri Jul 31, 2015 12:46 pm

A quick update if its any help to anyone out there
I fitted a scootopia ignition switch to replace a kill switch on a series 3 Li with a 12v varitronic AC conversion, maybe worth looking around for an easier switch to fit I had to remove quite a lot of material inside the headset to get the switch to fit and then the key plate was not completely flush with the retaining lock ring. I wired it up initially and has been running and working for a couple of weeks now but had no side light made a call to scootopia and was told the purple from the ignition needed to be in the main 12v supply (not actually done as yet).
So this is how I wired it if it helps (this is for a SCOOTOPIA ignition switch only, they all seem different, using a 12v set up)
IGNITION SWITCH
BROWN & EXTENDED BROWN____ TO MAIN 12V SUPPLY FROM REGULATOR (BROWN). EXTENDED BROWN REPLACES FEED TO HORN (check if the brake switch feed is fed from the horn and if so this will need connecting to the extended brown also)

ORANGE ______ TO THE BROWN AND PURPL OF THE LIGHT SWITCH ( mine is the LI type with 2 switches plus horn button and 7 wires disconnect the black and yellow that come from the light switch to the headlamp junction and isolate using insulation tape )(if its the single switch type just connect orange to orange)

BLACK________ TO BLACK ON HEADLAMP JB (speedo and rear brake light)
YELLOW ______ TO YELLOW ON HEADLAMP JB (side light)
GREEN________ TO GREEN ON HEADLAMP JB (kills engine)
PURPLE_______ CONNECT THIS TO THE BROWN AND EXTENDED BROWN FROM IGNITION AND 12V FEED FROM REGULATOR (should also be brown)
PINK__________ CONNECT DOWN TO EARTH

There are lots of different wiring diagrams and lots of confusion this worked for me using this setup hope it helps somebody as I spent a lot of time trying to get the correct info when I did mine. :? :)
P.S Thanks for all the help everyone :)
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