Sticking clutch then stall

[Chilli]

This is driving me mad now,I don't seem to be able to sit at the lights without stalling,if it's in 1st gear I have to keep the revs up then pull away at silly speed, if my foots on the back brake it doesn't want to change gear from neutral up into 1st so I take my foot off the brake and change up and it stalls any idea ?????

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

This is only my opinion. Don't shoot me!

Clutch drag due to likely warped plates or any number of things, including wrong adjustment or operating lever set at the wrong angle.

[Raveydavey]

Back break cable interfering with the clutch somehow. Is it over the engine mount rather than under?

[Scooterlam]

Warped or incorrectly aligned clutch spring notched crown wheel not letting the clutch fully compress or come out square.
has it just started, been gradual or followed a rebuild?

[Chilli]

Had the piston and barrel replaced not long ago,seems to have gradually got worse since then.

[Scooterlam]

From how I've read it it sounds like drag.
Easy test , with the scooter not running and the ignition off, pull ht cap if you only have cut out switch.
Select neutral, pull clutch lever fully in. Now kick it over, go gentle.
the kick start lever should push should push through with little or no reistance.
If it turns the engine the clutch isn't fully disengaged. This may be just adjustment.

Try this and let us know.

[Chilli]

Cheers guys
Turns out it was drag,I have adjusted the clutch at the engine,it seems it had slipped, fingers crossed

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

That's why the original type of 'nipple clamps' for the cables with their fine thread & brass pads are so superior to the recent V*spa style. The best way of tightening, besides the 3.5 mm AF Hexagon key, is to have a snug fitting spanner on the main body flats & to have pre-soldered the inner cable in the area of the clamping.

Scooter Restorations & probably others have seen the light though, & they are easily available again.