hand pump

[avanti]

Good afternoon fellow forum members , today on my series 1 (SERIES 3 ENGINE ) I had cause to change the rear wheel , this was difficult due to the panel handle bracket. it seemed the only way was to deflate the wheel !!! .
so can any one recommend a hand pump that is up to the job that I can stow in my leg shield tool box.
thanks in advance
Avanti KTF .....

[HxPaul]

Unfasten the centre nut and remove the hub and wheel as one,this way you can replace it without letting the air out.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

HxPaul is correct, but hardly a practical proposition lugging a torque wrench & 27 mm AF hexagonal socket about to accomplish the wheel change in the middle of nowhere or rush hour traffic. Where would you stash the wrench? Down a trouser leg?

The clip that holds the brackets in place is best modified, or dispensed with, thus allowing the brackets to swing.

[drivera]

Or change to Tubeless rims ?

[HxPaul]

HxPaul is correct, but hardly a practical proposition lugging a torque wrench & 27 mm AF hexagonal socket about to accomplish the wheel change in the middle of nowhere or rush hour traffic. Where would you stash the wrench? Down a trouser leg?

The clip that holds the brackets in place is best modified, or dispensed with, thus allowing the brackets to swing.

I've never used a torque wrench on the hub nut.I have a series 2 and carry the correct size socket,a bar and extention and an allen key for the locking plate screw.They all fit in my toolbox.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

TBH I was confusing the panel latch method with the Series III.

However, I still wouldn’t want to ‘guestimate’ upwards of 110lbs/ft for the sake of a puncture whilst holding the hub via the rear brake. I’m not entirely sure I’d be happy in carting the tools as you do in addition to the hub puller.

If that is the only alternative method to deflating the tyre though, I bow to your superior knowledge.

[Captain Pugwash]

If you remove the rear spring and lift up the back of the scooter it clears, and if you trim your panel clip at the rear of the frame near side just a little bit then it's easier again, as that gives even more room for the tyre to get past.
Then you can leave the torque wrench at home.

[Scooterlam]

Get some compressed air canisters,
Ive got a series one with a modified clip and its a real pain in the ass.
I have the panel off a lot more than I change a wheel.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-16g-Thre ... 2804d57842

[bike grim]

I use a CO2 pump bought for about 10 quid from a cycling shop that uses the canisters as per the link above. Its small enough to fit in a pocket. Used several times on road side when had slow punctures (even tubeless tyres puncture) and 1 caninster gives about 20 psi. So I carry a few.

[Rich Oswald]

Halford's hand pumps, fit in the toolbox and do the job fine,

Rich'

[Scooterlam]

Halford's hand pumps, fit in the toolbox and do the job fine,

Rich'

But canisters are so much cooler, and you can smuggle your hippy crack.

[MickYork]

fit a battery and carry an electric one.

[HxPaul]

TBH I was confusing the panel latch method with the Series III.

However, I still wouldn’t want to ‘guestimate’ upwards of 110lbs/ft for the sake of a puncture whilst holding the hub via the rear brake. I’m not entirely sure I’d be happy in carting the tools as you do in addition to the hub puller.

If that is the only alternative method to deflating the tyre though, I bow to your superior knowledge.

Its not superior knowledge - its just the way I've always done it.