GT kit - a few pointers please

[DaveTomo]

Have a GT200 kit to fit over the winter, just after a few pointers please.
1) The blanking plug for the head - do you thread lock it in? or is it silicon on the thread and wind it in?
2) Reeds - never had them before - do I need to put a blob of thread lock on the screws that hold the petals? possibly a bit over kill or is it just drop them in?
3) In the guide it says " All head cowlings can be used but series 1 Li have the best fit" are they longer? I have at present the type with the extra baffle/plate inside which is if I remember rightly better for cooling.Just curious as to why a series 1 .
4) Head cowling again, if it needs to be spaced out between the mag housing due to the porcupine head, does anyone sell a spacer?
Sorry for all the possibly daft questions - just don't want to f**k it up

[Eden]

1) you can put silicon on the threads but I never have, just tighten it down and forget.

2)no need to worry about the screws as they cant come out once the valve is bolted onto the barrel. consider doubling up on the petals though.

3)the gt barrel is shorter than a standard 200 barrel due to the low deck height of the piston

4)see 3)

[coaster]

....the gt barrel is shorter than a standard 200 barrel due to the low deck height of the piston

How much shorted Eden? would using a longer conrod (110?) with a spacer and or a strocked crank compensate for the shorted barrel? just wondering as I'm thinking of building one myself.

Colin

[Eden]

I've built a few combinations on stroke and rod length.
All of the 110 rod with 60 strokes have not needed a head cowl packer on the mag.
Richard has longer barrel nuts available that space out the head cowl at the stud fixing position for standard setups so there are options depending which way you want to go.

On my 250 setup which uses 62mm and 115 rod I haven't had to use mag to cowl packers either due to the piston I use having an even lower deck. It pushes the barrel a bit further away but only 2-3mm more than the 110/60 combination. Its a bit tight getting the cowl on these but possible. A 3mm mag to cowl packer could be used but I don't bother.
Obviously the distance it pushes the barrel forward depends on the crankcase face and on the position you need to have the barrel in relation to the piston crown at tdc for the timings your after, but if your just using 60/110 with the standard piston your only packing the barrel up around 4mm so the cowl fits just fine.

[DaveTomo]

1) you can put silicon on the threads but I never have, just tighten it down and forget.

2)no need to worry about the screws as they cant come out once the valve is bolted onto the barrel. consider doubling up on the petals though.

3)the gt barrel is shorter than a standard 200 barrel due to the low deck height of the piston

4)see 3)

Cheers Eden you're a star , thankyou.

[coaster]

1) you can put silicon on the threads but I never have, just tighten it down and forget.

2)no need to worry about the screws as they cant come out once the valve is bolted onto the barrel. consider doubling up on the petals though.

3)the gt barrel is shorter than a standard 200 barrel due to the low deck height of the piston

4)see 3)

Cheers Eden you're a star , thankyou.

+1, thanks Eden

[Storkfoot]

When I first built mine, my blanking plug did work loose. I loctited it back in and it has been fine since. I have a 115 Conrod on Indian GP 200 webs. I did need to get a packer made up for the cylinder head but it's only 3 or 4mm thick despite there being an 8mm packer on the barrel.

[Storkfoot]

I just stumbled across a couple of pictures from when I built my GT186 3 years ago:

[Eden]

that an S1 cowl?

[Storkfoot]

Indian GP, as far as I know

[newmanlammy]

I've got head cowl base packers in stock in various thicknesses if anyone needs them