Dragging Clutch

[ToBoldlyGo]

When I'm stopped in gear you can feel the clutch pulling and it's impossible to select neutral. Adjustment seems to make little or no difference. The side has been off once already and it was thought the plates might be too thick and replaced. But, it hasn't made any difference to be honest. So, at this stage I'd welcome any thoughts you might have.

[HxPaul]

Some grips prevent the clutch lever on the handlebars from being pulled in to there fullest extent.This would prevent the clutch plates from separating fully.

[coaster]

Is it a 4 or 5 plate clutch? either way, you should always check for max separation when building a clutch. Use feeler gauges between the top plate and first friction disc, it should be possible to get a 1.5mm feeler in there, Less than 1.5mm will cause drag and much more than 2mm will lead to slipping. Adjust the gap by change some plates for thicker or thinner steels.

[grandpa]

Hi ToBoldlygo,
You have probably looked at this
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4460&p=35762&hilit=clutch+drag#p35762
With only 4mm of movement of the mechanism any burrs , slop/wear in the clutch arm or springs the wrong length when depressed and you have drag.Note Wack's comment about thinner top plate.
Grandpa

[ToBoldlyGo]

Thanks Grandpa. It's had another clutch basket. It's an ill wind and all, but when it was investigated the basket was coming loose, so it's just as well. The trick with a thinner top plate has been tried. I'm just wondering if the clutch arm is set too far back and the cable just can't pull it far enough. I might experiment with that.

[Andie]

apologies for the noobie question - having some similar issues with my new clutch, which is dragging once the engine is warm, does the lever arm just 'easily' lift off to be repositioned by removing the circlip? - I read MB offer to set it at 90 degrees to the crankcase, thanks and hope this is aiding not stealing your thread. Andrew

[Andie]

I'm just wondering if the clutch arm is set too far back and the cable just can't pull it far enough. I might experiment with that.

I think I may have mis-phrased my post - what I meant to ask is, can you move the arm without removing the chain-case? or does the circlip above the arm hold the clutch arm shaft in place and it'll slip in side?

Thank you

[grandpa]

Hi Andie and tobodlygo,

Never tried removing clip with chaincase in situ but you could wrap some wire underneath clutch shaft and twist tightly to prevent it slipping too far.Using a junior hack saw gently mark shaft and clutch arm so you can put it back in the same place if you need to.
Page 38 Sticky's second edition writes "Clutch drag that only develops once riding may be due to clutch slip because cable too tight and plates are overheating and swelling"
Its got me thinking as I still have clutch drag at times
Nothing is ever easy
Grandpa

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

I don’t know if this is any help, but think about how a clutch will wear for a moment….

As the plates get thinner, the central part (spider) moves closer to the operating cam.
So, the cable needs slackening as the clutch beds in.

Also, the clutch arm can indeed be released & repositioned on the splines.

Again, think about it, & you will realise that if you move the arm ACW (looking from above) so that the angle is more acute, rather than square to the gasket face, you actually gain more degrees of rotation for the pull from the handlebar clutch lever.

I hope to have helped.

[Andie]

Thank you Grandpa and Warkton (and others who PM'd)

Without wanting to steal the thread, my clutch - standard 4 plate with stronger springs - that I probably didn't need as it's not a hot-rod - is bedding in (just 300km of town traffic) so constantly adjusting, as should be. Yes to the clutch swelling in use and the spider moving, and the angle of the lever arm is fine. I'll see how it goes for the full 1400km running in. My left hand is getting a full work out!


Thanks again for your advice, it's always appreciated