bloody clutch drag (yes another one)

[terryj]

chnage clutch springs to mb strengthened one changed top plate to thin one and have had to bend top cork tabs to make sure it doesn't pop out
adjusted cable till kick start slips then wound back in till that was ok if i select 1st gear i can feel the engine struggle and want to pull forward
could the outer cable being too long cause this seems ok but getting desperate and clutching at straws now

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Only last week I stripped my gearbox out to replace a worn cursor & the six plate clutch that was already in was just re-fitted. However, like you, just as a precaution, I bent the top friction plate tabs down as they were ‘close’ to going over, although never had.

Like yours, the clutch was dragging more than Lily Savage.

But I braved it & took it for a spin & it bedded in & even adjusted it en-route & all is fine now.

[Adam_Winstone]

Have you done something to limit clutch separation travel, e.g. fit a centre spring or a 5-plate clutch? Anything that stops you from compressing the assembly far enough for the plates to separate, or try squeezing too many plates (or too thick) into the basket will cause this to happen.

Also, if you limit the range of lever (at the headset) then this will cause drag. Balloon grips are a cause, badly angled levers are another, etc.

Adam

[terryj]

standard clutch no extra springs
normal li type clutch lever
when i pull the clutch in and then user a spanner on the clutch arm there is loads more movement
but if i wind the adjuster out any more the kick start doesnt bite
its as if the lever cant pull the inner far enough to free the clutch
just had head set top off
no real movement on the outer cable and clutch arm start to move as soon as i pull on the lever
also cant select neutral when stationary have to move it backward and forward to get it to go in
only other thing could be the plates getting damaged during the previous clutch drag and made the surfaces sticky some how

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Your kick-start inner could be catching the clutch top plate but only when you kick it down.

If you set the clutch cable play to what would be ‘normal’ with just a little free play, does it bump start alright?

[soulfecker]

You say you have a std li lever, have you a clutch bell with the spigot that goes into the Christmas tree. If not, then the bell may be canting over. I had this problem, and had to convert to a gp type bell, side casing and clutch lever.

Paul

[terryj]

You say you have a std li lever, have you a clutch bell with the spigot that goes into the Christmas tree. If not, then the bell may be canting over. I had this problem, and had to convert to a gp type bell, side casing and clutch lever.

Paul

standard li gears with the spigot

[terryj]

Your kick-start inner could be catching the clutch top plate but only when you kick it down.

If you set the clutch cable play to what would be ‘normal’ with just a little free play, does it bump start alright?

it kicks starts fine when i adjust the cable to suit but then i get bad clutch drag so i have to set the cable so the kickstart just works then i get minimal clutch drag

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

it kicks starts fine when i adjust the cable to suit but then i get bad clutch drag so i have to set the cable so the kickstart just works then i get minimal clutch drag

Hmmm.

You’ve definitely re-fitted the button on the clutch centre, I take it?

[terryj]

yes thimble fitted on clutch
was wondering if wear on that and inner clutch arm could be a problem but i set the clutch arm up at 90 deg and just touching clutch then tighten cable to suit so i assume if i replaced thimble and arm it would still be the same
its an early ser 3 and the clutch lever is straight would change to a dog leg one bet the slot on head set would be too large

[grandpa]

Hi terryj,

but i set the clutch arm up at 90 deg and just touching clutch then tighten cable to suit so i assume if i replaced thimble and arm it would still be

At rest on my gp150 the clutch arm position is similar to that pictured on Sticky's second edition page 48 shown with cable disconnected.With my handlebar clutch lever pulled in there is no more movement on the engine clutch lever but it is not at 90 degrees.Has the clutch arm been taken off the clutch arm shaft, if your arm is at 90 degrees before you pull in handlebar clutch lever then I think your arm needs to be refitted more anti clockwise.An Adult may confirm the correct relationship.
Grandpa

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

but i set the clutch arm up at 90 deg

I’ve suggested on this Forum before that I advocate rotating the clutch arm ACW so that it is not @ 90°. Go as far back as you can without fouling the other components. You might have to convince yourself this will work by doing a bit of drawing or geometry!

That way, more rotational movement will be gained. The other way of doing so is to cut down the lever. By moving the clevis part where the cable nipple sits in toward the centre, again, more rotational movement will be gained.

However, although such measures are commonplace in Racing, where even nine plate clutches are used, I haven’t needed to resort to anything other than rotating the clutch arm ACW with a road six plate conversion.

[HxPaul]

I had the same problem,if I tightened the cable I got clutch slip and if I adjusted the cable so there was slight free movement of the handlebar lever,I got clutch drag.Eventually I found that an after market clutch pressure plate (flange) was the culprit.When assembled the bottom cork plate fit ok but the first steel plate would not sit down on the cork plate.I found that the pressure plate fingers (that mesh with the spider)were to proud at the bottom and the first steel plate fouled on the fingers.When I replaced the pressure plate the problem was solved.

[terryj]

thanks i will have a look at the clutch plates and see how they sit when i use the clutch compressor and try moving the arm around a touch

[bazza3004]

Is your outer cable in good nick. Stuggled with this problem myself a while back only to find my outers plastic covering had perished over about a 3 inch length and i can only assume this was letting the outer flex / move in some way when i pulled the clutch in. I replaced the outer and no longer had the slip or drag issue you seem to have. Good luck resolving this. Baz

[terryj]

new cable although i was wondering if its too long and that could cause a problem no movement where i can see but who knows whats going on in the horncast area

[Wack]

As you said you have fitted a thinner top plate and bent the tabs to keep the plates in the crownwheel I'd guess the clutch is now rubbing on the kickstart shaft and the MB springs are bottoming out and not giving enough clearance. A strip downs in order then you can check everything over. Also check the pressure plate isn't bottoming on the cluster or the bottom of the crownwheel with the clutch compressed.

[terryj]

starting at the head set and working forward
the hole in the clutch arm has worn oval assume this will affect the pull on the cable
is there a quick fix for this cant replace as its an early ser 3 with the thinner lever

just found some on all styles but they dont look that round on their pics so mine may not be so bad but for what they cost will take a punt and move on to look at the rest

[terryj]

tried moving the clutch arm away from 90 deg and it has helped
had to rescue a scooterist at malton and his clutch arm was close to 180 deg
pretty sure problem is not getting enough movement on clutch arm if i jack back end up put it in 4th and pull in clutch can just feel it dragging slightly put a spanner on the arm i only have to move it a small bit further and no drag at all hopefully new lever will sort out that last bit for me
brought new arm thimble and the internal arm on saturday in case changed the arm because on the way up couldnt get 3rd or 4th with the clutch in arm was pulling down and hitting gear linkage i assume new arm looks a bit thicker and has more of a kink in it so i guess the original was on its last legs

[terryj]

nice bonus £2 refund lcgb discount