Complete Spanners Manual 3rd Edition

[coaster]

...Lambretta's don't need this this kind of lighting. There are ways and means to make the headlight work so much better without the need for any radical changes that could attract negative attention and comprimise your insurance credibility.
From a technical standpoint........
A) HID's run very hot...... Not good in the confind space of a scooter headset with all those plastic bits, like wiring and digital speedo's!
B) Most Lammy's haven't got sufficient generator power to sustain this level of electrical demand, especially when tootling around in urban areas.
C) Using a whiter light is not as effective as improving the reflective projection of the available light. Lamm'y headlamps have really poor quality reflectors. That is what needs to be changed..... The quality, not the technology. Fortunately, there are some clever folk out there who can take your headlamp, separate the reflector from the glass, re-silver plate the reflector to a modern high standard and send it back to you with the glass reattached.
D) A halogen "sealed beam" unit would ulimately be the answer.

I'm sorry FaF but that is almost complete mostly wrong and misleading. The Lambretta headlight unit was designed back in the 50's and no amount of re-silvering is going to improve it to modern standards. Anyone using their scooters on dark unlit country roads needs a better headlamp than that offered as standard. fitting a higher wattage halogen or Xenon incandescent lamp will improve the light a fair bit and using a Jockeys modern reflector/lens will improve it even more. BUT an HID will bring it up to a different level entirely. OK, it won't be original and some would prefer to keep original looks but as someone who has experimented a lot with all manner of headlamp improvements I can report that the difference is amazing.
There is high voltage involved but there is almost NO heat with an HID.
The current consumed is approx. 35Watts which is almost half that of Xenon 55/60 watt lamp conversions
It will need full DC electrics an a battery

You might be getting confused with LED headlamps which DO generate a lot of heat, I haven't tried tem yet but tbh, from what I've read, I don't think they perform as well as an HID at the moment but technology is improving all the time

[Tractorman]

Expand specification pages, include more torque settings and include various end float tolerances.

[MickYork]

I'm tending to agree with Wack's earlier statement about a second book for cylinder kits (or upgrades). This could also be for non-standard carb's, clutches, casings, advance/retard units, exhausts and other upgrades. Maybe an open invite to manufacturers asking if they wished to provide a "write up" which could be then vetted and edited accordingly. The manufacturer's info' should maybe include recommended settings, port timings, gearbox/exhaust configurations, etc.

The "original" manual could include more blank pages after each chapter, which would be useful for making notes for different settings (carb settings/ignition/gearbox /etc). I think adding all the upgrades to the "original" manual may make the reading a bit confusing.......

Making the pages "ring bound" (if that's the correct terminology ?) would make it easier to leave the page open when working with it in the garage.

[dave411]

How many volumes are you intending to print?

[Fast n Furious]

Thought to plant another tree today.......... My contribution to offsetting Sticky's carbon footprint,

[HxPaul]

Thought to plant another tree today.......... My contribution to offsetting Sticky's carbon footprint,

If your so worried about carbon footprints,the last thing you should be doing is riding a 2 stroke that is supposed to give off more polution than other form of transport.

[Sticky]

I think we all owe the world a few trees

[missing lynx]

I think use of LED bulbs and more lince electrics would be handy also have you thought of doing one for LD's , the j range and vega's?

[ToBoldlyGo]

What, toy scooters?

[Ivor the engine]

Hi,
What about the repair of original bodywork ie, legshields, mudguards, horncast threads, set up & welding of damaged headsets, an entry of fork straightening - showing the jig in use, straightening of any damaged rear frame area - from a shunt and anything on specific home made tooling, rebore tool set ups and the possible repair of rear shocks if that can still be carried out. The list is endless.
Cheers,
Ivor.

[Triffid]

Colour-coded edges to each section. a clear and comprehensive contents page and a full index section - rather like a school textbook. That's my two pen'north. Merry Christmas!

[Sticky]

Colour-coded edges to each section. a clear and comprehensive contents page and a full index section - rather like a school textbook. That's my two pen'north. Merry Christmas!

Have you looked at the top corners of the pages?

[byron]

Colour-coded edges to each section. a clear and comprehensive contents page and a full index section - rather like a school textbook. That's my two pen'north. Merry Christmas!

Have you looked at the top corners of the pages?

I have never noticed that before....

[Triffid]

Gosh, yes - so there is! They are a bit small and that's why I didn't notice them - if the colours extended along the whole edge of the page this would more clearly show each section. Cheers!

[compass]

LARGE PRINT VERSION
0r am I the only one that comes out the garage with oil/ grease stained glasses

[Phil D]

What about versions in French ,German ,Dutch
And of course Braille .
Or limited edition collector edition's.
It's never ending.

[Strummer10]

Hi Sticky

The books to date have been excellent by the way...well done !!...... and as a result my engine rebuilds are now done exercising skills the book has taught me, as opposed to the bodges done back in the 80s lol.

Here's my thoughts, but in no way a criticism of the good work already done just what might help the cause and selfishly what would be my desired information requirements. AND PLEASE excuse me if a post above has already raised these matters OR your book already covers it somewhere, as I have not read every section of course !

With the exception of number 1 below, I believe the rest would go into your advanced engine building section.


1/ On renewing fork links maybe point out the manufacture process may well mean the measurement of the brackets within the fork legs may not be of equal distance and that shimming will likely be required to get the front wheel to sit straight and that this process will take time to get right and maybe where / what type of shims to be used.

2/ Maybe a section on 'leak down' testing as this seems to be in fashion at present and i'm just about to start using this technique on future builds. Maybe where to buy kits or how to make and what to look for regarding PSI levels etc and maybe the benefits of inner tube method versus plumbing end caps and pressure bulb v footpump.

3/ Section on the pros and cons of cranks on a standard 58/107 versus 60/62 and 116 conrod...........what performance increases, what work required on the casing, barrel and piston required as a consequence to upgrade. And maybe reflecting on what can be bought 'off the shelf' requiring no 'fettling' .

4/ Section covering 'retard systems' for ignition systems.....ie; Augusto / Variatronic /......others and application and setting up. I think things have evolved further since your last edition.

5/ NEW technology..........New developments on engine cases, capability and (I know your considering) how the extra output might need an upgrade to other components (ie; covering the 'weak links' your SLUK article nicely covers).

6/ Section of advancements in 'hydraulics' for clutches / braking / rear braking maybe expanding on the necessity for 5 or 6 plate clutches versus 4 plate.

Cheers.............

[Strummer10]

OH and also........

1/ Any chance of a fuller listing of 'torque' settings in your table towards the end to cover, chainside nuts (but i'm guessing this would be 3.8 lbs) and any other nuts not mentioned. I know this is overly 'anal' but as we build our engines and reach for your table we will all say to each other "oh that's not in there", the main ones are of course in there......

2/ Maybe the pros and cons of replacing the cylinder studs in an original casing. Is it needed or not and is it better to fit increased length nuts on the head.

3/ Gearbox endplate threads in the casing, how best to repair (is one method better over another) and provisions to stop threads being stripped out the engine. I raise this as it's been a recent issue on rebuilds......when torqueing up the nuts the thread strips out.

4/ Layshafts....I know you are looking at.

5/ Oh and benefits of these new clutch cable inners which exert less hand pressure to pull in stiff clutches.

Cheers again.

HOW LONG BEFORE ISSUE LOL ???

[denisiw]

I'll just repeat what I said to you by e-mail in March 2013:

Silent block should be Silentbloc as it is a proprietary name.

Misspelt word throughout; 'routing' should be 'routeing'. In English grammar, 'routing' is pronounced rowting; 'routeing' is pronounced rooting which is what is meant in your book. Americans use routing not us.

Cheers.

Denis

[missing lynx]

I think you should 2 volumes one with all the std stuff in and the other with all the mod's and improvements (kits, tuning upgrades etc)