Stripped rear hub stud

[dickie]

I stripped the thread out of one of my rear hub stud holes; hub is damaged, not the stud.

To my shame, I tightened it up through the rim and have used it without incident for 4 or 5 months. I've been nervous as hell though and have stopped just to check it more than anyone would like.

Anyway, is there a fix? I can't find left-hand helicoils or do I have to buy a new hub?

Or maybe I'm just being a fanny and I should just forget about it? Although I doubt it has a left-hand thread for no reason.

[gaz_powell]

Beedspeed do an oversize stud, think it's a 7/16 witworth, but you will need a LH tap, a cheap Chinese one would be good enough for a few goes on a soft ali hub

[HxPaul]

Use a nut and bolt

[Tractorman]

If the stud is a fairly good fit in the hole you could use an very high strength Loctite, 610 is good. Put plenty on the stud and hole and fit the rim using a spanner to hold the stud and tighten up the rim. Leave to cure for 24 hours. If you ever need the stud out you will need to use heat to break the Loctite's grip.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Post by Tractorman » Mon Jan 02, 2017 9:56 pm

If the stud is a fairly good fit in the hole you could use an very high strength Loctite, 610 is good. Put plenty on the stud and hole and fit the rim using a spanner to hold the stud and tighten up the rim. Leave to cure for 24 hours. If you ever need the stud out you will need to use heat to break the Loctite's grip.

I'm not sure of the best grade of Loctite to use, but, TBH I've had to resort to this solution with the rear hub several times (Serveta rear hubs don't grow on trees) without too much concern.

My belief is that the Loctite will get the hub stud back as close to an intended fit as possible & resist any 'slippage' or fretting which a non fitting fastener will not achieve.

[dickie]

If the stud is a fairly good fit in the hole you could use an very high strength Loctite, 610 is good. Put plenty on the stud and hole and fit the rim using a spanner to hold the stud and tighten up the rim. Leave to cure for 24 hours. If you ever need the stud out you will need to use heat to break the Loctite's grip.

Thanks but I can't find loctite 610. Is that definitely the product code?

[dickie]

I'm not sure of the best grade of Loctite to use, but, TBH I've had to resort to this solution with the rear hub several times (Serveta rear hubs don't grow on trees) without too much concern.

My belief is that the Loctite will get the hub stud back as close to an intended fit as possible & resist any 'slippage' or fretting which a non fitting fastener will not achieve.

The stud only just slips, I guess both you guys are right. I'll get some permanent loctite threadlocker.

I was inclined to get the oversize stud but this is cheaper and easier. Plus I'd have a left hand imperial tap in my tools and it would irritate me until I died.

[MK Monty]

After loosing 3 studs and almost the 4th I would bin the hub. I know we all want to fettle the life out of the ruddy things but you only have for studs holding your wheel on, not nice when they let go.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Post by dickie » Mon Jan 02, 2017 10:50 pm

Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:

I'm not sure of the best grade of Loctite to use, but, TBH I've had to resort to this solution with the rear hub several times (Serveta rear hubs don't grow on trees) without too much concern.

My belief is that the Loctite will get the hub stud back as close to an intended fit as possible & resist any 'slippage' or fretting which a non fitting fastener will not achieve.


The stud only just slips, I guess both you guys are right. I'll get some permanent loctite threadlocker.

I was inclined to get the oversize stud but this is cheaper and easier. Plus I'd have a left hand imperial tap in my tools and it would irritate me until I died.

It's not very 'scientific' of me but I used Loctite Studlock that I keep meaning to return to the stores where I no longer work...However, I can vouch that any repaired hubs that I used will have been subjected to full race abuse with no problem.

I agree about the use of an Imperial thread & would sooner try & track down affordable thread inserts than resort to that...

[Tractorman]

Sorry it's 638. I don't think normal stud lock would be strong enough but I may well be wrong!

[ToBoldlyGo]

After loosing 3 studs and almost the 4th I would bin the hub. I know we all want to fettle the life out of the ruddy things but you only have for studs holding your wheel on, not nice when they let go.

That's enough to give you nightmares. Didn't you ever check to make sure they were tight?

[roli150lam]

After loosing 3 studs and almost the 4th I would bin the hub. I know we all want to fettle the life out of the ruddy things but you only have for studs holding your wheel on, not nice when they let go.

That's enough to give you nightmares. Didn't you ever check to make sure they were tight?

highlights the need to check wheel nuts are tight.Check before every ride.

[Adam_Winstone]

I've seen a couple of cases of this recently, where people have used commonly available dome nuts and the original type washer. Unfortunately, the washers are thin and the dome nuts are low/shallow, resulting in the nut finishing extremely close to/against the washer/rim, however, the nut had actually bottomed out on the top of the stud and was applying little or no pressure to hold the rim to the hub. In one of these cases all four studs cut through/sheared on a dealer full restoration and the rider was very lucky to keep the bike upright and not total it

Watch out for this issue!!! When it happened to the guy above, a number of my clubmates inspected their own bikes and found them to be using shallow dome nuts and thin washers too. The experience of one has resulted on a number changing their assembly to ensure that the nut tightens fully before bottoming out.

Adam

Checking that nuts are tight is not enough... tight against what?!

[roli150lam]

I've seen a couple of cases of this recently, where people have used commonly available dome nuts and the original type washer. Unfortunately, the washers are thin and the dome nuts are low/shallow, resulting in the nut finishing extremely close to/against the washer/rim, however, the nut had actually bottomed out on the top of the stud and was applying little or no pressure to hold the rim to the hub. In one of these cases all four studs cut through/sheared on a dealer full restoration and the rider was very lucky to keep the bike upright and not total it

Watch out for this issue!!! When it happened to the guy above, a number of my clubmates inspected their own bikes and found them to be using shallow dome nuts and thin washers too. The experience of one has resulted on a number changing their assembly to ensure that the nut tightens fully before bottoming out.

Adam

Checking that nuts are tight is not enough... tight against what?!

Point taken.I don,t use dome nuts but of course others do.

[Adam_Winstone]

^... soz, that wasn't meant to sound like it was aimed in your direction, not intended.

Adam

[roli150lam]

No offence taken.
Your point is good and well made

[ToBoldlyGo]

Yeah, I should have clarified that. Shallow dome nuts is a known issue. And, as you pointed out Adam it could easily be tight against the stud and nothing else. I don't like dome nuts and use nylocks myself.

[holty]

i had a similar situation a few years ago, my lammy ended up with only 1 domed nut still on, i only felt a slight wobble, got off and checked it and got a massive shock, i even pushed it home, i always use nylocks now and spring washers, belt and braces

[MK Monty]

This was at the IOW. I heard it clicking while moving it at the hotel in the morning and tightened everything up, Stainless nylocks, flat washers onto newish rims, no extra paint but powder coated. I know some don't like stainless. Rode round the island and back for the ride out, rode onto the rugby field and thought WTF. 2 missing and one more sheared when I tried to nip them up. OK I didn't have access to a torque wrench that morning and I didn't remove the nuts at the time so the rim may have already elongated. Agreed check your nuts but don't be tempted to just nip them up each time as you can shear the studs, I now scrape the paint of the rim and the hub at the fixing points as my thoughts are that lose the paint and it's then loose. Made a good brake trimming tool, not worth the risk have I got an iffy stud IMO

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

Post by MK Monty » Mon Jan 02, 2017 11:24 pm

Image
After loosing 3 studs and almost the 4th I would bin the hub. I know we all want to fettle the life out of the ruddy things but you only have for studs holding your wheel on, not nice when they let go.

The issue of shallow dome nuts is a serious one & there is every good reason to make people aware of the danger of loose nuts, even though it has been discussed previously.

The resultant loose rim acts as a guillotine edge to cut through the studs. The reasons that such an issue may occur is due to either human error or the use of non OEM components that do not conform to the original remit or function adequately & thus compromise the safety.

If anybody intends to throw away a perfectly serviceable hub as the result of what amounts to errors, then there must be quite a few of us willing to take ownership


However, the OP is about a different matter entirely & relates to the practicable way in which a hub may continue to be used despite a threaded hole becoming baggy