ignition switch

[eyeguy]

So I was trying to start my TV175 and it finally started but quit after a short idle. It usually starts on first or second kick. I had no clue what was happening. So I decided to try something. I put the key in the first position therefore having no lights on. It started right off and idled fine. I let stand Idle for a while and then turned the key to second position so lights would come on. Guess what... Died.

Went back to first position and all good again. So I then tried last position and it died again. Anyone had a same issue? could it be a faulty switch. I am not an electrician.

Help Please
eyeguy

[foremanbob]

Have you checked that you are getting a spark in every position of the switch?

[Tractorman]

If you have the standard points system it may be worth checking the condition of the points, has dirty points can cause this.

[eyeguy]

Have not checked points. Or spark in switch positions. I will do both and get back.

Thanks for the input.
Eyeguy

[eyeguy]

Okay, I checked spark in every key position several times and without fail it sparked in all positions. I then started in the first key position and as usual started on second kick. I then let idle for about 5min. after turning key to next click it died. I did it again with same results.

I haven't checked points yet. would dirty points cause electrical flow to be restricted when lights are on?

eyeguy

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

Make the points gap smaller.

[eyeguy]

Hi Chris What should that gap be?

[grandpa]

Hi Eyeguy
This sounds like a classic case of a demagnetised flywheel.You can sometimes get around it temporarily by closing the plug gap.Some scooter shops will remagnetise your flywheel.If the magnets are weak there is not enough voltage ( energy ) created by the Low tension coil. See page 38 Sticky's second edition. To eliminate the ign switch remove the green wire that plugs into headset connector .The ignition switch shorts the green wire to ground via the pink wire to switch off engine

I would eliminate the ign switch first.

You can also eliminate the ign switch and any junction boxes by removing any green wires from ht coil ,unplug green wire from the stator and connect that wire using a length of additional wire and connector blocks straight to the ht coil ( where you previously removed ht green wire.)Stall engine to stop it .
Grandpa.

[sunrisemac]

This sounds like a classic case of a demagnetised flywheel.You can sometimes get around it temporarily by closing the plug gap.Some scooter shops will remagnetise your flywheel.If the magnets are weak there is not enough voltage ( energy ) created by the Low tension coil. See page 38 Sticky's second edition.

+1
sounds just like mine was a few weeks ago, AF Rayspeed remagnetised flywheel for me and now I get a lovely blue spark and the lights don't kill the motor

[Fast n Furious]

If your lights are normally quite bright, then a demagnetised flywheel is unlikely.
Sounds like your points gap is too wide to me.
Certainly the first thing to check.

[eyeguy]

Lights are not bright. Checked gap and it's .035. Just what sticky ordered. Still searching. I will go ahead and get the flywheel redone.
I wonder if the switch is bad.

Eyeguy

[foremanbob]

Lights are not bright. Checked gap and it's .035. Just what sticky ordered. Still searching. I will go ahead and get the flywheel redone.
I wonder if the switch is bad.

Eyeguy

Have you got a multimeter? If so check continuity between earth and the green wire from the switch in the headset. Should be connected to ground in the off position, the remainder of the positions it should not be connected to ground... If you get intermittent connections between positions your switch is no good. Otherwise if only active in off position... all good...

[sunrisemac]

Checked gap and it's .035.

Are you sure of plug gap

In my opinion

.035" is too big,

.035mm is approximately 0.0015" which is too small

.35mm would be about .014" which would work OK

[eyeguy]

I will try that gap. I thought sticky recommended that gap. However in this process I've decided to replace the loom and switch. I will also check ground to make sure switch is good are bad.

Thanks
Eyeguy

[eyeguy]

So here is what i did to check switch. Placed ohm meter on ground in back of scooter where mounted to engine. removed green wire from switch going to bulb holder. key in off position indicated ground. all other positions broke ground. was this the correct way?

eyeguy

[grandpa]

Hi Eyeguy
Yes
So did you try it running with green wire disconnected.you don't need green wire connected to run engine and try lights
Grandpa

[eyeguy]

I did run with green wire disconnected, but did not try lights. I will. What can I expect?

eyeguy

[eyeguy]

Made a discovery I left the headset on with the speedo light hooked up. I then turned key to last position so lights would come on, and they did. When I moved the headset lights got very dim. As i moved it more the light would go bright and dim. undone speedo light and lights are bright and scoot runs in all positions. My tail light still doesnt work when lights on. I am going the redo the ground on that as right now there is no ground as sticky recommends. Any comments?

[grandpa]

Hi Eyeguy
Just guessing without seeing it but your engine needs to be earthed you may also .have a high resistance festoon bulb(Speedo bulb).So change that.Check that your Speedo bulb has a good earth and that the live wire going to Speedo bulb is not shorting on anything.check for wires chaffing in headset.from memory the black wire supplies voltage to rear light
The ignition green wires are completely separate from lighting circuit.
Grandpa

[eyeguy]

The wire to the speedo was almost broken. I'm sure that was the problem. As far as the festoon bulb what size should it be? Where do you suggest running wire for engine ground.

Eyeguy