An introduction and a question.

[MobileChicken]

I'd just like to say hello to you all and ask a noob question if I may.
My history with Lambrettas is very limited and the gap between my ownerships is over 30 years. At the back end of the Mod revival in the eighties, myself and a friend purchased a non runner Li S2 but being only 16 it stayed a non runner until we sold it back to the bloke we bought it off!
I have now bought an 1963 Li S3 125 Italian import which is a non runner also but this time I have a proper toolkit and a garage I'm going to do a nut and bolt job on it.
I have stripped the Scooter completely, blasted the frame and primed, it is currently at Mike Phoenix getting a little bit of fettling done.
The engine was seized, in fact the piston, small end, big end, main bearing and mag housing was seized...all sorted now except the crank and mag housing removal.
I intended from the start to fit a larger barrel and upgrade to 12v electrics but with the mag housing seized the crank is going to be replaced also.

My question is this, what benefit will I get from installing a GP crank and electrics?

Thanks

[NorthernJordan]

Stronger crank which is less prone to twisting or the taper shearing. I would recommend fitting a good crank (something like a MEC race crank) to any engine even if tuning is only modest. The crank is the heart of the engine and a good one is a future proof investment if more tuning is desired.

The 12v electronic are preferred as they are regarded as being more reliable. However, like anything Lambretta it does and will fail but the befit is easier diagnosis and the reduction intermittent faults for example points bouncing etc. You should also get a reasonable improvement in lighting performance, but a better headlight is normally required to get 'good' headlight beams.
In addition to this many fancier upgrades can be performed with the relevant conversions taking place such as DC wiring which can effectively power batteries meaning superb lighting can be achieved along with additional accessories wired up.

[Jim Rose]

Not much I can add to that, good summary

[MobileChicken]

Cheers for the reply, a GP crank it is then, as at a later stage I'd like to put a mugello kit on. For now I'll (due to how much it's costing me to restore) source a cheaper cylinder 175/185 kit and carb to get the scoot up and running.

Thanks

[Jim Rose]

You will regret the cheaper option because a few months after you guild it you'll want abetter kit. If you can bite the bullet now

[foremanbob]

Cheers for the reply, a GP crank it is then, as at a later stage I'd like to put a mugello kit on. For now I'll (due to how much it's costing me to restore) source a cheaper cylinder 175/185 kit and carb to get the scoot up and running.

Thanks

Honestly, the cheaper option is going to cause you heartache and pain.... I'd go straight to the kit you want rather than an interim solution

[Meds]

I did the same thing with a cheaper 175 kit and a jetex carb.
They make better door stops than lambretta top ends.
You'll end up throwing money at something that won't run right unless you know exactly what you are doing.
There are lots of threads about this.

[Phil D]

You could try to source a good second hand small block kit as an interim .
I've been in exactly your position and it's easy to get caught up in a never ending money spiral.
Especially if you have to pay for professional help.

Maybe I've been lucky but my old skool bored out cast 150-175 has been great .
Again the 22mm jettex has been fine .
Once I replaced the old 6v system I never looked back .

One thing I would say is seek out local LCGB members or local Scooter clubs for help and advise.
Oh and get a Sticky's book - it's invaluable.

Welcome and Good luck
Phil.

[Nigel. S]

Further to previous replies, if you can't get the kit you want right away and the standard barrel is at all salvagable, or if you could scrounge a 150 top end, why not build it as standard for the time being? There's a lot to be said for a well built standard engine. (You could still uprate crank/electrics) Then get the kit you want without doing the ££intermediate spend££ 175 thing. Put that towards your kit.

I started (Restarted) scootering as a complete dullard with respect to engines etc, after rescuing a very battered italian import a few years ago I am slowly becoming less of a dullard Built it as standard and rode it like that for a while to the amusement of many a fellow rider, but hey - it was always a talking point. It ran like a sewing machine (but slower )
Then eventually, realising I hadn't fully anticipated a return to rallying, I started exploring the world of making it go faster, exhausts, kits, carb etc. You will appreciate the difference each step up makes from standard if that sort of thing appeals to you.

Good luck.

[NorthernJordan]

If I was going to go 'cheap' I would go something like this:
http://www.afrayspeed.co.uk/index.php?p ... buteID=STD

But your almost at half the price of a proper kit. Might be worth going with a better kit and keeping the exhaust and carb simple meaning you could upgrade at a later date when funds allow but have the heart of a quality engine.

[MobileChicken]

Thanks for all the advice.
I bought Stickys manual and parts book before I bought a bike just to see what I was getting myself into.
I've taken on board the suggestion of not going with a cheaper kit, this is a long term restoration and a couple more months while I save for a mugello kit is no biggie. The 125 cylinder, unfortunately, was not salvageable.
Apart from getting the frame on the jig for piece of mind (Mike tells me the frame is straight, forks a few mill out though) I'll be doing all the work myself including the soda/bead blasting and painting. Partly due to cost saving (subjective) but mostly for the experience and sense of achievement when completed.
Is the longer stroke 60mm Mec Eur desirable over the 58mm, I understand that will give extra cylinder cc's but is there a trade off with the longer stroke, less torque maybe?

[NorthernJordan]

Many people fit a 60mm crank, it gives extra cc's which sound good in the pub.
The main advantage of a 60mm crank is you can fit packing plates at the base/top of cylinder to achieve more port timing adjustment.

I should have mentioned look for a crank with a Yamaha 110 rod rather than the normal 107. They are much stronger and some normal lambretta rods are quite weak at the small end bearing end.

[citydaz]

Mike Phoenix is a good source of advice - he tuned my seized Li125 into a mugello 186 several years ago and its not missed a beat since!