Engine Mount Stuck

[rossclark]

I've been trying to get engine mounts into a casing, I'm using a mount tool I've used before.

Plenty of heat and have got one partially in but it's stuck fast now and I can't shift it in either direction now. It's about 3- 4 mm short of being fully home.

I'm thinking this is because there's now too much heat in the mount itself and have left it to cool off.

Any other suggestions for shifting it?

I might prefer to take it out ...

[Tractorman]

Let it cool and fit the extractor and put pressure on and heat casing and put more pressure on. Hopefully with pressure and heat it will shift. Good luck!

[Adam_Winstone]

I've found this happening because of there not being enough of a chamfer on the mount, meaning that it tries digging itself into the casing, rather than aligning and pulling in correctly. if you can reheat the casing and get it back out, take a flat needle file to the leading edge and put a better chamfer on it, then try again.

You might want to measure the mount size though just to ensue that they,re machined correctly. Don"t risk cracking the casing.

[drivera]

Or fit BGM mounts , they almost push in by hand ??

[grandpa]

Hi Ross ,
Have a look at this:
viewtopic.php?f=10&t=4275#p34242
I used emery cloth to minutely reduce diameter of silent block as I was aware of damaging the crankcase lugs (after you get stuck ones out!)
Grandpa

[coaster]

Sometimes they aren't completely 'round' which also causes them to jam when fitting.

[humble]

As the mount is nearly in it maybe too late now but as Adam has already said its is always worth measuring mounts before installing. I have on a couple of occasions had mounts that are manufactured too large a diameter and needed a fraction machined off so that they were OK to fit. One was a Tutto set, the other SIL. They are all tight, as they are an 'interference fit', but with enough heat and the right tool they should go all the way in!

[rossclark]

Thanks for all the tips guys, at the moment I've put it away and ordered a more extractor robust tool. I'll try again with the heat and the extractor.

The mounts are Scootopia ones though they're ones that have been in my spares bin for a year or so. There is a bit of a chamfer on them but maybe a bit less than some of the more recent offerings.

[Tony Hart]

If you have had the Scootopia Mounts for a while I would imagine they are the very hard ones so unless you have masochistic tendencies I would get them out and bin them. I tried to grizz it out with a set for about a thousand miles but gave up and swapped them. Apparently they are okay for racing as I gave mine to Scotty at DSC.

[rossclark]

I crept up on it tonight with the old extractor, a quick blast with the blow torch and a long breaker bar and managed to get it out.

Bent up the washers and the old tool a bit so it's only fit for the bin now.

I measured the mounts and they average just about 36.07mm. I've put a better chamfer on the leading edge and given them a good rub with some 800 grit wet and dry to clean off any high spots. I've also flatted back the casing holes as They were a bit rough in there too.

TBH this isn't the first issue I've had with this casing. It was one of the last ones from Restos and the casting itself is very rough. I also found that the gear selector rod hole in the bottom of the casing needed reamed before the rod would fit and a couple of the endplate holes were not tapped deep enough.

I'll wait for the new tool arriving before I try refitting them.

[rossclark]

If you have had the Scootopia Mounts for a while I would imagine they are the very hard ones so unless you have masochistic tendencies I would get them out and bin them. I tried to grizz it out with a set for about a thousand miles but gave up and swapped them. Apparently they are okay for racing as I gave mine to Scotty at DSC.

I think they might be those ones , yes, I definitely thought that's what they were but can't be sure - is there a way to identify them from any others? These have an 'i' logo and ^L and ^R marks?

I have heard others say that they do bed in after a bit but maybe you're right. Might just order some different ones to be sure.

[Tony Hart]

Not sure if there is any difference in markings etc but I only bought and fitted a set last year and they were the hard ones. I use a scooter to commute every day and I gave them a chance to bed in - partly due to not wanting to add to my lambretta crap parts bin and partly because I couldn't be bothered to drop the engine again. The engine isn't a power monster but there was no sign of these 'bedding in' after over a thousand miles and the vibration didn't ever ease off.

Tony

[rossclark]

BGM seem to be out of stock everywhere so have ordered a set of the SIL ones from Restos that I've used before and had no trouble with.

Just reinforces the maxim that you don't always get what you pay for...

[Adam_Winstone]

Whichever ones you fit, still take a couple of minutes to improve the chamfer angle and you'll find it self aligns so much easier.

Good luck with it.

[Digger]

BGM seem to be out of stock everywhere so have ordered a set of the SIL ones from Restos that I've used before and had no trouble with.

Just reinforces the maxim that you don't always get what you pay for...

Ain't that the truth....

[bike grim]

I've put UNI mounts in 2 engines at the start of the year. One set replacing the hard scootopia ones (due to bad vibes) in a big cc tuned engine (Italian casings) and another set replacing similar Indian engine mounts in a TS1230 ( SIL casings) and I cant tell any different from the Casa mounts I have in my Rapido ( SIL casings) I'd say they are value for money (so long as they last which I think they will) at about a tenner each.

[gaz_powell]

You might find you get UNI from SR as SIL ones like all SIL stuff is drying up.

That's what I received on my recent order.

I'm already using UNI in my my SX and S2

[rossclark]

Just seen Lowestoft Lambretta Work posting about the PLC Corse mounts - those look well sorted.