Technical help for Series one, two and three Lambrettas. Models include the Li, Li Special, TV, SX, GP, Serveta and API/SIL models
by CHRIS in MARGATE » Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:26 am
Not so attractive with only £15 off.
Now at half price incl. postage; I'd take 2.
-

CHRIS in MARGATE
-
- Posts: 4080
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2014 5:49 pm
by Toddy » Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:49 am
CHRIS in MARGATE wrote:Not so attractive with only £15 off.
Now at half price incl. postage; I'd take 2.
????
-

Toddy
-
- Posts: 10614
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2014 9:58 pm
- Location: East Yorkshire
by MickYork » Sun Aug 27, 2017 11:52 am
Toddy wrote:CHRIS in MARGATE wrote:Not so attractive with only £15 off.
Now at half price incl. postage; I'd take 2.
????
£15 off but no guarantees and a bit of cleaning to do......not worth it IMO.
But, as said above, make it half price and pay the postage and it's more attractive.
-
MickYork
-
- Posts: 1476
- Joined: Sun Jun 01, 2014 8:37 am
by CHRIS in MARGATE » Sun Aug 27, 2017 12:50 pm
That's about it. They have 100 to clear so most probably bought at a very attractive price. Not knocking them, -they are a business and have to make a living. For an extra £15 which is not a lot you have peace of mind in a new build instead of worrying if oil seals are weeping or similar.
Put them on ebay; they'll fly off the shelves !
-

CHRIS in MARGATE
-
- Posts: 4080
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2014 5:49 pm
by Scooterdude » Sun Aug 27, 2017 3:03 pm
Cheap yes, but in my opinion not worth the possible hassle. Old adage: buy cheap buy twice comes to mind.
-
Scooterdude
-
- Posts: 674
- Joined: Fri May 26, 2017 3:45 am
by Storkfoot » Sun Aug 27, 2017 5:09 pm
The webs are worth more than that. Stick a decent conrod and big end bearing on and you have a good crank for decent money.
In answer to Toddy's question, I'd question the big end bearing if the rest had spots of rust.
-

Storkfoot
-
- Posts: 2522
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2014 8:59 pm
- Location: Merseyside
by ladsdad » Sun Aug 27, 2017 7:07 pm
Hi Mate
Like everyone else say's, steer clear unless you just want it for the webs...
I'm sure you remember waiting on the M4 services a few years ago when I had to cut that con rod off that siezed solid crank out of Linda's engine..!
Some of them run for 1000's of miles like mine or less than 300 like that one did... Save yourself the Hassel & pay a bit extra for a mec crank or similar & forget about it...
Cheers Mark.
Btw nice to see you the other week too mate!
-
ladsdad
-
- Posts: 157
- Joined: Wed May 14, 2014 9:18 am
by Toddy » Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:50 pm
Cheers all
-

Toddy
-
- Posts: 10614
- Joined: Tue May 13, 2014 9:58 pm
- Location: East Yorkshire
by rossclark » Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:46 am
How much rust can a crank stand before it's a loss?
-

rossclark
-
- Posts: 2855
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2014 11:23 pm
- Location: Lanarkshire
by a-teamlambretta » Mon Aug 28, 2017 9:34 am
Ey up,
They used to do one with a Japanese big end bearing , I had a couple of these with no issues
-

a-teamlambretta
-
- Posts: 510
- Joined: Fri May 30, 2014 9:42 pm
- Location: gilberdyke, east yorks
-
by a.lo » Mon Aug 28, 2017 10:54 am
rossclark wrote:How much rust can a crank stand before it's a loss?
not a lot, if as it states it is on the oil seal lip. I can,t believe there is any fix for that. regardless of fitting new rods/bearings
-
a.lo
-
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Sat May 31, 2014 3:56 pm
by Warkton Tornado No.1 » Mon Aug 28, 2017 12:37 pm
The seal surfaces should not be polished to a high degree as there needs to be some lubricant retention. Otherwise, the seal will fail if it is too smooth or rough. My own procedure is to Scotchbrite the areas where the lip runs which gives a slightly matt finish.
One manufacturer of seals is Eriks & this is part of what they say:
"For normal circumstances, the shaft in the region of the seal must have a surface roughness of approximately: Ra = 0,4 - 0,8 mm
Rmax ≤ 6,3 mm"
I hope that helps....
-
Warkton Tornado No.1
-
- Posts: 2280
- Joined: Sun Jan 11, 2015 1:27 pm
by Adam_Winstone » Mon Aug 28, 2017 3:44 pm
a.lo wrote:rossclark wrote:How much rust can a crank stand before it's a loss?
not a lot, if as it states it is on the oil seal lip. I can,t believe there is any fix for that. regardless of fitting new rods/bearings
^... my thoughts too. I'd want to confirm that the one that I was buying did not have rust on the oil seal faces... wouldn't be too bothered about anything else, other than extreme thread damage, as new rod and bearing required and anything else could be cleaned up.
-
Adam_Winstone
-
- Posts: 1237
- Joined: Tue Jun 03, 2014 1:52 pm
Return to Series 1, 2 & 3
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: Baidu [Spider], Google Adsense [Bot] and 23 guests