None Runner

[CHRIS in MARGATE]

While you're there, change the mag side oil seal. And the drive side.

[Bilko]

Yes definately Chris.

[Bilko]

Cranks, bearings and seals changed.......


Still the same

[Scooterlam]

Back to the holy trinity, compression, fuel and spark.
Don't assume anything,
Just because you have a spark when you hold the plug against the engine mount, doesn't mean you have one when the plug is fitted and the cap and lead are close to the metal cowl.

[MickYork]

Put the number plate on a running scooter......problem solved

[Bilko]

I wasn't expecting miracles on Sunday when I finished the rebuild and the service was worth doing and when it fired up third kick, for a split second I thought it was sorted....

I know many here are many rolling there eyes at this with my amateur mechanics and more than likely would have the Lambretta running in no time, but I really don't know what else I can try.

Frustrated,
Belfast

[bolzenanker]

Bilko

Keep at it, I'm rooting for you as I'm sure everyone else must be.

Just think about when it's finally sorted, which it will be, how chuffed you'll be.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[MK Monty]

I have just been back and reread the posts, Im back to stators and flywheels. I know they have all been changed. BUT. when I was messing with stators and CDI I found the height of the pickups varied by as much as 4 mm. I measured the position that the flywheel sat on the crank by putting a wad of blue tack at the pickup position. Using that I figured out that the pick up on my brand new BGM stator needed to be raised by 3mm to get it nearer the centre of the tongues on the pickup magnates.if that makes sense. If your crank has any end float it may move further out of alignment as the revs increase. In my case my timing was wandering 10-15 degrees even after I had removed the M tech and gone to fixed timing. I had used 3 separate CDIs and they all did different things

[grandpa]

Hi Bilko,
I also have an unsolved problem (gp150 misfiring) where I have changed everything.How are you checking for air leaks to test integrity of crankase seals? a cheap way is to use a cycle innertube and just pump it up to only about 5psi then spray all joints with soapy water. Left it overnight and took pic .Is your compression around 100psi.Just bought compression tester with flexible rubber pipe from screw fix for under £20 100 psi kicking it over and 110 pushing scoot in second gear
Good luck and let us all know how you fix it .Don't give up.

Grandpa

[Scooterlam]

Can't some one local pop over nd give the guy a second opinion.
He isn't failing for want of trying.

[Mark ULC]

I love to help you Bilko but you have more knowledge than me. Can you get it to Ballycastle and let the knowledgeable folk play with it that weekend If you need a lift up we could organise that.

[Toddy]

I love to help you Bilko but you have more knowledge than me. Can you get it to Ballycastle and let the knowledgeable folk play with it that weekend If you need a lift up we could organise that.

Good thinking we can all offer an opinion then , surely one of us must be right

[Marty ULC]

You've tried everything I can think of and more.
Maybe time to start at the beginning again.
Swap plugs, cdi etc out of a working scoot maybe.
Buy some petrol out of a different garage.

[Bilko]

My partner just gave me an in depth analysis.

She says “I think it's electrics because it won't stay on".

I'm convinced she's right.

[Mark ULC]

My partner just gave me an in depth analysis.

She says “I think it's electrics because it won't stay on".

I'm convinced she's right.

Well once she has done the dishes get her out to fix it!

[IaninDorset]

So mechanically its all AOK and then some?

You're getting a fine spray of the old 2 stroke and fuel?

What about the old Ford common failure, the dreaded earth strap, does the CDI take its earth from the frame which a poor earth strap would cause some issues with? Also remember a poor connection will build up resistances and play merry hell with all sorts of things including capacitance for your hall sensor.

A limp coil could also give you the run around, they seem to work but under load give poor and intermittent sparks but by the time you've taken the plug out, its cooled down enough to give you a kick spark and so you think it is working when it ain't.

The spark plug should go to ground because its all part of the same metal single circuit of the engine casing, have you got one of them neon spark caps as I keep one of them spare for just that sort of thing.

[sunrisemac]

Have you checked all the wires that were disturbed when fitting engine in case there is a broken one inside the insulation that is not immediately evident, I had a broken one next to a terminal on the new loom I fitted to my GP resto project and didn't find it till first time out and I spluttered to a halt 3 miles from home, it took me an evening to find it as the continuity test didn't show it up straight away, it was only when I happened to move the wire being tested that I found the break, it wasn't visible under the plastic sheath.

[Bilko]

There goes Ballycastle next week.

Just finished going through everything again, swapping plugs, plug caps, HT leads, stators, CDI's, flywheels, checking wires, earths connections. Nothing.

[Marty ULC]

Mate I've a stator that I KNOW works (swapped it for a BGM for brighter lights) I'll drop it off tomorrow afternoon after work.
While I'm there we can pull the cdi off the bike I'm on and see if that works.

[Captain Pugwash]

You could try copious amounts of holy water and a priest to get the demons from hell within that beast of a scooter exorcised ?