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Crownwheels

Technical help for Series one, two and three Lambrettas. Models include the Li, Li Special, TV, SX, GP, Serveta and API/SIL models

Crownwheels

Postby neily03 » Mon Feb 25, 2019 8:15 pm

Am i correct in thinking it's not wise to use the older crownwheels with the internal springs on a tuned engine?
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby al pushpak » Mon Feb 25, 2019 8:35 pm

Yes, not advisable, solid later type much better ;)
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby neily03 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 3:33 pm

Great, thanks :)
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby Knowledge » Tue Feb 26, 2019 3:50 pm

The solid ones need to use a bronze bush rather than two needle rollers, as the centre is not hardened like the old ones with the internal cush-drive.
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby neily03 » Tue Feb 26, 2019 3:57 pm

Yes I've been reading about the bushes in solid ones, MB do a solid crown wheel that uses needle bearings but are the bushes really problematic?
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby Knowledge » Wed Feb 27, 2019 2:12 pm

No. There are some very good quality after market bronze bushes now, with a clever oil-groove cut into them. The OEM ones are not the best.

I sometimes wonder if MB seek solutions to problems that don't seem to exist. Still, they build a lot more machines than me so they must find more problems than me.
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby foremanbob » Wed Feb 27, 2019 4:43 pm

I had a bronze bush last year on route to Whitby... but that's the first I've ever heard of...
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby neily03 » Thu Feb 28, 2019 11:07 am

Great, thanks guys
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby HxPaul » Thu Feb 28, 2019 3:31 pm

Do the riveted solid type(without springs) still require bushes,or can they be run on bearings ?
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby Knowledge » Thu Feb 28, 2019 4:55 pm

Is there such a thing as a riveted solid crown wheel? Why would it need rivets if it is solid?

I suspect you have one with a spring cush-drive hidden within.

Anything old with a cush-drive has a hardened centre and can use needle rollers.
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby HxPaul » Fri Mar 01, 2019 9:33 am

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Re: Crownwheels

Postby Steve J » Fri Mar 01, 2019 12:46 pm

Knowledge wrote:Is there such a thing as a riveted solid crown wheel? Why would it need rivets if it is solid?

I suspect you have one with a spring cush-drive hidden within.

Anything old with a cush-drive has a hardened centre and can use needle rollers.


Yup, there is such a thing - probably late Series 2 or early Series 3. It's 'solid' in that there is no movement between the inner clutch bell and the chainwheel part, due to the six rivets holding them together. I've got one, but I drilled out the old rivets and fitted M6 screws, with a drop or two of loctite. The main reason for using it was that I wanted to keep the needle roller bearings.
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby neily03 » Fri Mar 01, 2019 2:13 pm

Out of curiosity is it possible to convert a sprung crown wheel to solid so needle bearings can be used?
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby rossclark » Fri Mar 01, 2019 5:49 pm

It's not the springs or the solidness that matters, it's whether the race in the centre is hardened suitably.
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Re: Crownwheels

Postby Warkton Tornado No.1 » Fri Mar 01, 2019 10:58 pm

The real beauty of the two part, non sprung, rivetted crownwheels is the fact that they are dismantleable.

Once apart, the slots can be deepened to allow for five plates or more. The task is far easier than pocketing the one piece crownwheels.

Then, as previously said, high tensile fasteners such as button heads can be used to assemble, but check nothing fouls.

I personally like the needle bearings in preference to plain because the assembly will run truer. That said, only 46T are readily available in that format.

However, think about when the bearing is put into action for a moment. It only gets to be used in a dynamic capacity when the clutch is pulled in, that is, it is disengaged. The majority of the time, the bearing is in a static capacity & only there to support & centralise the whole clutch assembly when it is engaged, which is the majority of the time.
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