Cgt75b wrote:I have a spare Italian disc if you’d like to try that Paul?
But it sounds like you may have cracked it.
Thanks. I have a couple too. Just never sure, after all these years, how flat they are.
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Cgt75b wrote:I have a spare Italian disc if you’d like to try that Paul?
But it sounds like you may have cracked it.
dickie wrote:I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?
Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote:IMO sintered pads offer the best braking available in conjunction with the OEM internal disc, Such is the braking capability that when they are used with a hydraulic conversion, as was the practice with racing, the fluid would boil unless a racing ( high temperature) fluid was used,
Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency, That's something I believed unnecessary. However, I dispensed with the M8 grub screw & fitted a large shim behind the static pad as I felt it to be much more purposeful & discourage the pad from spinning.
Mind you, I've always kept the anti-rattle circling in place & left the three pin holes as OEM, assembled with Copaslip.
martyn dwane wrote: back in the early 80`s my club often went to watch scooter racing ,I seem to remember Taffspeed using Citreon BX or CX hand brake pads in their disc brake, or did i dream that![]()
Storkfoot wrote:dickie wrote:I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?
Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.
Storkfoot wrote:Storkfoot wrote:dickie wrote:I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?
Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.
I can safely say that removing the circlip from the disc has remedied the incessant screeching.
However, I have noticed that my front brake cable is 2.0mm thick, whereas the front disc cable should be the thicker 2.5mm diameter. I’ll leave this for the time being but certainly if I reverse pull the brake, I’ll change the cable.
Thanks for all the replies.
Warkton Tornado No.1 wrote: If removal of the anti-rattle circlip has been the solution, then that must have been binding. An OEM in-board disc brake assembled as Innocenti design intent with adequate Copaslip applied to 'clean' OEM components will not give noise issues, regardless of pad material.
dickie wrote:Turn your radio up.
Dazts1 wrote:I tried pretty much everything mentioned in this thread. Squealing was only at slow speeds around town. Totally fine at A road motorway speeds. There was a noticeable amount of stopping improvement over standard pads. Not been able to live with the head turning I was creating for all the wrong reasons. I searched out different pads. I settled on the blue forma brand. Although not quite as good as the sintered squealing is no more and three was a noticeable improvement over other branded pads. One of my inboards is hydraulic the other is reverse pull. To be honest I prefer the reverse pull correctly setup over the hydraulic version. Braking is just at effective.
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