Copper sintered disc pads

[Storkfoot]

I have a spare Italian disc if you’d like to try that Paul?

But it sounds like you may have cracked it.

Thanks. I have a couple too. Just never sure, after all these years, how flat they are.

[Storkfoot]

I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?

Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

IMO sintered pads offer the best braking available in conjunction with the OEM internal disc, Such is the braking capability that when they are used with a hydraulic conversion, as was the practice with racing, the fluid would boil unless a racing ( high temperature) fluid was used,

Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency, That's something I believed unnecessary. However, I dispensed with the M8 grub screw & fitted a large shim behind the static pad as I felt it to be much more purposeful & discourage the pad from spinning.

Mind you, I've always kept the anti-rattle circling in place & left the three pin holes as OEM, assembled with Copaslip.

[Storkfoot]

IMO sintered pads offer the best braking available in conjunction with the OEM internal disc, Such is the braking capability that when they are used with a hydraulic conversion, as was the practice with racing, the fluid would boil unless a racing ( high temperature) fluid was used,

Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency, That's something I believed unnecessary. However, I dispensed with the M8 grub screw & fitted a large shim behind the static pad as I felt it to be much more purposeful & discourage the pad from spinning.

Mind you, I've always kept the anti-rattle circling in place & left the three pin holes as OEM, assembled with Copaslip.

Thanks for that. Hopefully, I shall be able to give it a proper road test tomorrow. I’ll report back

[martyn dwane]

''Some racers went to the trouble of creating their pads with an ear with corresponding notches in the pad housings to prevent 'the possibility of pad rotation, but that would have been done with the intention of preventing any loss of braking efficiency,''
back in the early 80`s my club often went to watch scooter racing ,I seem to remember Taffspeed using Citreon BX or CX hand brake pads in their disc brake, or did i dream that

[Warkton Tornado No.1]

back in the early 80`s my club often went to watch scooter racing ,I seem to remember Taffspeed using Citreon BX or CX hand brake pads in their disc brake, or did i dream that

That sounds like the sort of thing that would occur, but the best kept secret was where the MSC slave cylinder seals & dustcaps came from. They were rumoured to have originated from a French car. IMO Dave Webster manufactured the best hydraulic conversion for the OEM inboard disc.....

[martyn dwane]

''That sounds like the sort of thing that would occur, but the best kept secret was where the MSC slave cylinder seals & dustcaps came from. They were rumoured to have originated from a French car. IMO Dave Webster manufactured the best hydraulic conversion for the OEM inboard disc.....[/quote]''

, I believe they came from a Renault 10/12 rear brake caliper.
I still own 2 DJ hydraulic set ups, the seals seam very hard to source.

[Storkfoot]

I once had a disc that didn't float on the pins properly. The fix was to bend the spring into a tighter radius. Basically the spring was applying too much force on the pins. Maybe you could do the same rather than leave it out?

Thanks. I’ll see how it goes.

I can safely say that removing the circlip from the disc has remedied the incessant screeching.

However, I have noticed that my front brake cable is 2.0mm thick, whereas the front disc cable should be the thicker 2.5mm diameter. I’ll leave this for the time being but certainly if I reverse pull the brake, I’ll change the cable.

Thanks for all the replies.