halogen headlamp conversion

[kennystag]

Hi All,
Any body used a halogen headlight conversion kit, as I am looking for a brighter light for the dark nights on Skye.
Cheers
Stag

[coaster]

Hi All,
Any body used a halogen headlight conversion kit, as I am looking for a brighter light for the dark nights on Skye.
Cheers
Stag

Which one are you referring to and what model of scoot? By far the best one is the Jockey's H4 conversion which has a clear lens and matching modern reflector. The light output is substantially improved but kits are only available for Li, SX and Servetta headsets. If you have a GP or don't fancy the expense of the Jockeys unit, you can just fit a halogen lamp straight into your lamp holder, these being available from the likes of Beedspeed.

[kennystag]

Thanks coaster,
You asked me which one, that is what I am trying to find out. What is available. I have a GP .
Cheers
Stag

[coaster]

Thanks coaster,
You asked me which one, that is what I am trying to find out. What is available. I have a GP .
Cheers
Stag

In that case you choice is a bit limited but this is the straight plug in Xenon type lamp from Beedspeed https://www.beedspeed.com/bulb-halogen- ... bbfvusv486 but you will really need an LED rear lamp to 'free up' some wattage otherwise the headlamp will dim when the brake light is operated.

[kennystag]

Thanks for that coaster,
I will have a look at beedspeed.
Cheers Mate
Stag

[grandpa]

but you will really need an LED rear lamp to 'free up' some wattage otherwise the headlamp will dim when the brake light is operated.[/quote]
Not if our Kenny bites the bullet and goes D.C with a battery
Grandpa

[kennystag]

Good morning Grandpa,
I am looking into going DC, as that is how i want to go, as you have convinced me that is the way forward for better lighting, horn etc. I am looking for some one to convert my stator for DC, or is there another way.
Cheers Mate
Stag

[coaster]

but you will really need an LED rear lamp to 'free up' some wattage otherwise the headlamp will dim when the brake light is operated.

Not if our Kenny bites the bullet and goes D.C with a battery
Grandpa[/quote]

It would still help in keeping the battery charged at low speeds like around town. I found charging on both of my Wassel DC conversions to be marginal with a 55/60 watt headlamp even WITH an LED rear light. Probably ok with a 35 watt headlight but then the light output is not as good. Now that I've converted to HID with the Jockeys headlamp the battery charges at 14 volts even with the lights on and the light output is phenomenal

[kennystag]

Hi Coaster,
My proper town is 100 miles away in inverness. I need to go DC like grandpa keeps telling me lol. Is there anybody out there that would modify my stator to DC for me. Anyway I am going away today for the holidays, So I would like to take this opportunity to wish you all a merry Christmas,and a good new year, and hope Santa brings you nice new parts for you lammys.
All the best
Kenny

[coaster]

Hi Coaster,................ Is there anybody out there that would modify my stator to DC for me.

I can do that for you, I'll PM you my address

[Wack]

It would still help in keeping the battery charged at low speeds like around town. I found charging on both of my Wassel DC conversions to be marginal with a 55/60 watt headlamp even WITH an LED rear light. Probably ok with a 35 watt headlight but then the light output is not as good. Now that I've converted to HID with the Jockeys headlamp the battery charges at 14 volts even with the lights on and the light output is phenomenal [/quote]

I ran a 55/60 and the charge voltage wasn't that high so I changed to 35w which then gave 14+ v when riding.I noted a while ago your post re the HID conversion and have seen some on Ebay for around £20+ and wondered if I should give it a go?

[MK Monty]

The light output on my HID is fantastic and as its running at35w it's the best of both worlds. Not without issues as if I go from dip to full beam it doesn't always relight. It needs a high voltage to spark it up and the switch has an off dead point as I switch one to tuther. The wireing showed I should have had a supply direct from the battery and then the dip and full beam from the switch. My mistake I will look at changing it at a later date. Still 20 quid well spent and a spare lamp and driver should I need it. I agree my Wassell was maxed out with a 55w night breaker even with LEDs on everything else. The pathfinder standard lamp gave a great beam but looked like a candle colour wise compared with the 6000k HID

[Wack]

i was looking at the Hawk one on EBay but I can't link it.

[coaster]

I have converted my Jet 200 and LiS 125 to HID, for the Jet I used a kit from China that was £4.99 (plus about £1.25 postage). The lamp with this one doesn't have the metal shroud that some have and is the one I used to take the photos you might have seen on another post. The delay in switching from main to dip and back on mine is only noticeable when the lights are first switched on, the lag pretty much disappears when it has warmed up. For the LiS, I used one half of a set I'd bought for my Classic car which I think I paid about £25 for again from a Chinese ebay seller. The lamp on that one had the metal shroud on which I decided to leave even though it is only held on with a couple of tiny self tapers but it necessitated enlarging the hole in the Jockey's reflector. I think that shroud actually reduces the light output so I will be removing it at some point.

[Wack]

I bought the Hawk HID kit and after modifying the GP bulb holder and setting the focal point it looks excellent. What I'm wondering now is do I need to fit a relay? The kit is for a m/ cycle and comes with an H4 male connector that plugs into a bikes existing wiring presumably with a relay somewhere.

[MK Monty]

Mine was for a car so I had 2 heads but it came with a multi contact relay with not a lot of info as to what it does. Yes had the 3 pin plug to splice into the existing wiring but in my case it looks like it uses the high and low beam from the 3 pin to select the flickflack function. The power I fed from my light switch when it said to take it from the battery direct. The relay is bigger than the driver pack, so hiding that was harder than the driver. I already had a relay to protect the shit italian lightswitch when on full beam as at that point it turned on a 55w spot.
I would wire it as recommended and see if it works. If it designed for a bike it may well be OK. if you went for the 35w option its the same as a halogen lamp just a better output

[coaster]

Monty, you should have ditched the wiring that came with the kit, the hid lamp unit and ballast just need to b connected using extension cables available from eBay.

Colin