Series 2 survivor

[dickie]

Having been persuaded (willingly) not to stick to standard, I haven't exactly gone extreme, but it's a long way from factory spec.

Indian gp200 gearbox went in easy with a standard shim. Just how I prefer at the tight end of the range. I've got a 5 plate, 47 tooth clutch lying about that will work well with it.

A year or 2 ago, I bought a 62/110 crank from Darrell Taylor.


It has no shims but the webs aren't machined either. This is to maintain grip on the pin.


You can see that the rod is machined to clear the cases.

It comes with a jig to hold the crank central while you check for web to case clearance; mine was at least 0.7mm and DT recommended 0.4mm to me, so I'm perfectly happy with that.



Then I dry-fitted an RT195 kit to see what I needed to do to the ports. I was under the impression that a long stroke would reduce port timings, but it seems to have done just the opposite.



So I'm not sure which way to go with these timings. I'm happy with the transfers with all packers. But, raising the barrel takes the exhaust a little higher than I'd hoped but lowering takes the inlet a little higher than I'd hoped.

I'm erring toward the 3mm packer (175ex, 127tr, 145 inlet) as these are similar, but a bit more conservative, than a 175 cast tune I did a few years ago; I was happy with that.

So what would be a more torquey motor; 170exhaust, 150inlet or 175exhaust, 145inlet?

[ULC Soulagent]

Me personally would go for 175ex 145in

[dickie]

Me personally would go for 175ex 145in

Yes, I think that's what I'll be doing. Like I said above my 175 had a slightly higher exhaust and I didn't find that particularly revvy.

[dickie]

The clearance between the big end of the rod and crankcase mouth was a bit tight, so I had to remove the crank. It's really not sexy to hit a £300 crank with a lump hammer but I don't have the right tool to push it out.

So, I scratched my head and thought about the cheap ebay bearing puller I bought a few years ago...



It sits slightly off centre of the crank so I used a washer to apply the load.

[dickie]

This is why I had to remove the crank. Darrell Taylor warned me about this and somehow I initially measured it completely wrong. There was something nagging away at me, so I re-checked and it was only about 0.15mm clearance between case mouth and big end of rod.


Sorted now though.

[dickie]

Need to choose a flywheel. I'll be running full DC so I don't care about low tension coil.

The obvious one to me is a 2kg indian flywheel but I have a brand new AF 1.4kg flywheel that I bought for an abandoned project.

This isn't going to be a flying machine so I suspect such a light one would be a mistake......views?

[ULC Soulagent]

Need to choose a flywheel. I'll be running full DC so I don't care about low tension coil.

The obvious one to me is a 2kg indian flywheel but I have a brand new AF 1.4kg flywheel that I bought for an abandoned project.

This isn't going to be a flying machine so I suspect such a light one would be a mistake......views?

Yip use heavy flywheel

[dickie]

I still wasn't happy with the crank clearance.

Initially, I'd only checked the Web to case clearance, but when I thought about it, the big end to case clearance seemed more likely to be an issue. This turned out to be around 0.2mm all round.

I don't have a lathe and my mate's would probably be too small to position the case anyway.

So, I tried a flap wheel with 80 grit paper. This was not as easy as I expected.

After a lot of effort and maybe an hour of farting about, the clearance was 0.4mm.

My advice is take it to a machine shop.

[jonw]

Great work... love these threads!

[dickie]

I've done nothing on this for ages now. Largely due to cycling the pyrennees (don't do it, it's not fun) and my one-year-old grandson moving in with us, which is basically the same as being a 55-year-old dad! Fun, but hard work.

Anyway, I've managed to steal a few hours in the garage this morning and have almost got the motor finished now.

RT195 cylinder kit fitted. This is with a 62/110mm Darrell Taylor crank. Ended up with 174 exhaust, 146 inlet and 126 transfer. Squish is slightly higher than I like at 1.25mm, but it's fine for a low power plodder. It's all fitted up with three bond and silicon on the exhaust manifold, so hopefully leak-tight.

The flywheel was lapped onto the crank, when I eventually got the woodruff key out; I trial-fitted the flywheel and took half an hour to get the woodruff key free! Smoothed off the edges and all was well.


The exhaust didn't sit flush so I filed it flat and took a little off the sides of the flange.




I matched the exhaust port and manifold to the gasket, mainly just because I think it's nice engineering practice. But does anyone know if this actually makes any difference to how a motor performs? I suspect it doesn't, but that's nothing more than gut feeling.


Close enough for pit work.

[ULC Soulagent]

Doesn’t do it any harm not too match n flow
Have you checked the compression ratio?

[dickie]

Doesn’t do it any harm not too match n flow
Have you checked the compression ratio?

I wasn't going to bother as it's a very "normal" kit. But you've asked now, so I will. I suppose the 62mm stroke will probably raise the uncorrected ratio and reduce the corrected one, by virtue of effectively raising the exhaust port? Can't see it making a huge difference though.

[ULC Soulagent]

Doesn’t do it any harm not too match n flow
Have you checked the compression ratio?

I wasn't going to bother as it's a very "normal" kit. But you've asked now, so I will. I suppose the 62mm stroke will probably raise the uncorrected ratio and reduce the corrected one, by virtue of effectively raising the exhaust port? Can't see it making a huge difference though.

Hopefully you won’t need it modified

[dickie]

I'd rather not dismantle the top end now as it's covered in sealant etc.

Do you think I could reasonably accurately measure the volume without greasing the piston-bore gap, or would the fuel/oil mixture just run straight past the rings in seconds? It doesn't have to stay long, just 10 seconds or so, but it might just be a waste of time?

[dickie]

Ran out of time to check squish as I've just been informed it'll need a DVLA inspection on Monday and I need to get it back in one piece before then!

So I skimmed up the clutch sprocket and made a baffle for the cowling. I did what is now the standard for me and cut the back of it out.

As I didn't want to damage the original one, I butchered a SIL one I had lying about.

Not pretty but very effective.

The rear brake was just dirty. I have new shoes and springs etc for it, but it simply needed a good clean up.


Just need to throw the motor in now really and it'll be good for inspection.

Then it's the fiddly cabling and electric jobs to finish it off.

[Storkfoot]

I like what you have done with the cylinder cowling. Functional and neat

I have only had one inspection in recent years. I wouldn’t be too worried about having it all together. I suspect that the lad who did mine would have passed it if the engine was lying on the floor next to the frame.

Don’t quote me on that mind

[dickie]

I reckon you're right. Of the 4 I've imported, 3 have been inspected! You may think I'm unlucky, or you might suspect that you make your own luck.

Like you, the folk who've inspected mine were all decent chaps, but you can't risk it, can you?

[dickie]

I like what you have done with the cylinder cowling. Functional and neat

I have only had one inspection in recent years. I wouldn’t be too worried about having it all together. I suspect that the lad who did mine would have passed it if the engine was lying on the floor next to the frame.

Don’t quote me on that mind

I don't think it's my idea. Im sure fast and furious put me on to it, but it's excellent. It can be made better by cutting the middle out of the fan cowling but I want to keep the standard look as much as possible.

[dickie]

So when I installed the engine
, the inlet manifold fouls the frame. I don't think I've had this before.


I'm using 62/110 crank, so obviously that contributes, but I'm still surprised. I've used loads of 60/110 cranks without bother and this only pushes it 1mm further. This is even using a shorter s3 shock.
Then I remembered I had this lying around, so I'll give it a try during the week after the inspection tomorrow.

Or maybe I just need to grind a bit out of the back of the manifold? I did really want to use a s2 shock to maintain its standard stance, but maybe I can't.

I reckon this is good enough for the inspection.

[dickie]

The inspector called round on Monday and I received the V5 by Friday!

So now I want to get a hand-painted black and white number plate. But, I can't find any blank black plates. Does anyone know where I could find them? I thought this would be easy. I've got some thin plate which I could cut to size and paint I suppose.